bannerd

Hey all, the rag in my w250 is roasted. Does the NV4500 mount right up?

deere country

No it's not a direct replacement. I would rebuild your getrag and skip the nv4500.

oliver foster

X2 what Deere said.

bannerd

Thanks! I'll give it a go.

thrashingcows

I agree with the others....the cost of a new 2nd gear assembly, and rebuild kit is significantly lower then swapping to a NV4500. Both have their strong and weak points, so I would say rebuild what you have.

Good luck!

MrFusion

I went with an NV4500. However I agree with the other posters. The Getrag seems to be easier to rebuild than the NV4500.
The NV4500 swap requires:
NV4500 trans
NV4500 shifter stick
Advance Adapters bell housing
AA transfer case shifter bracket (or build your own)
3"x3"x7" chunk of square tube for the rear trans mount (AA makes one but it's chintzy).


The other way to do it is to use 2nd gen adapter plate, bell housing, starter, clutch fork, and possibly clutch master/slave cylinder.


I spent about $2500 on my NV4500 swap to replace my trashed G360. That included the AA kit, NOS NV4500 with updated output shaft, 2.5 gallons of the super expensive oil spec'ed for the NV4500 shipped to my cousin's shop.


I did a bunch of research on the two transmissions and decided to go with the NV4500. However both transmissions have their good points and bad points.


In conclusion: it is not a bolt in swap but it is pretty straight forward.

bannerd

Just got my rebuild kit delivered. Anyone have a rebuild manual? I use to but my web server is offline because it got too dang expensive.

Thanks!

edwinsmith

https://www.scribd.com/doc/87294400/...Rebuild-Manual

bannerd

Thanks!

bannerd

Hey all, so I got a chance to rebuild the getrag. Took me about two hours of my time.. getting it out was a bit more hard than I thought. Upon inspection all the syncro dog houses looked perfect with no rounding on the top.

The input shaft was destroyed.. which destroyed the bearing. I ended up ordering a new input shaft because the race is built into it. The rear end bearing was gone as well. I ended up chipping the lip of the bearing on the PTO gear which I bought a new bearing. I thought about just running it the way it was because the chip was very small but I'm just going to replace it. Couple snap rings and some hammering.

The bearings in this were Koyo.. so I suspect that someone was already in here? Or did getrag run koyo bearings?

boeingguy

i m sure you know by now proper preload is critical, as well as overfilling with lube you prefer. however, the one thing few people mention , and is so critical to long life of the rag, is bell housing alignment ... these adapter plates are notorious for being off center. the input shaft doesnt last long if its acting like a unversal joint . IMHO just as many rags have been killed by this as low or improper lube....should be less than .005 out of round,with .002 or less being optimal ,if memory serves, good luck !

u2slow

It really depends on your geographics and shopping ability.

I have less than $500CDN tied up in a full NV4500 'kit' I gutted from a 2ndgen, abeit a high miler. I hate to think about the freight/tax/exchange I would incur on a 2nd gear assembly sourced south of the border.

loudhornsrule

My kit came with Koyo bearings. I didn't like them so I replaced them with SKF

bannerd

Ended up replacing that chipped bearing so I could ease my mind. Yesterday I had a go at putting in the getrag 360. I checked the bell housing and it looked center.. I didn't have anything to level or dial into the pilot bearing. I'm going to say the bell housing is center. When I first bought the truck I remember there was a ton of noise and when I checked the oil level it was never overfilled which I believe starved the input shaft race and the rear bearing on the output. Looking at the bearing they were just very warn and no offset on them.

I was able to jack the g360 up and get it on the cross member (hoping it wouldn't fall on my face). From there I just man handled it to the bell housing and with a few pushes it went right in. Hoping next weekend I can get the truck back on the road. In the mean time some sand and dirt from the tunnel cover fell into the shifter hole. Any advice on how to clean this? Should I fill with oil, drain and fill again? I stuffed a rubber hockey puck I sanded down and fitted but without notice it fell out. Which at the time I remember looking at it but assumed it was just a transmission mount . Only because I put a very large bolt through it for pulling out of the top hat. I always put the nuts back on bolts so I don't lose them.. unless my son takes them and hides them.. which I spend hours looking for. I'm glad I got it hooked up, was a lot of work doing it myself. I think next time I might purchase a transmission jack that way I can use my lift and save my back.

edwinsmith

If you got actual sand which is quartz you need to flush that stuff out pronto. That will eat your bearings and gears up something awful. I would drain the oil and then pour some diesel in through the shifter housing to flush stuff out. then I would put in fresh oil. Run it in idle for a while before you put any load on it to get the fresh oil back in the bearings and stuff.