peobryant

I recieved my DennyT Stage II fuel pin last week, and it looks fantastic. I have never installed a pin before, so if anyone could give me step by step instructions, (pics would help ) on how to do the install I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Parker

93beater

it super ez look in the sticky! enjoy!

Crossy's son

In in the sticky.

The_Head

It's super easy. Even I could do it. Just make sure youre not a edit and hook up the boost line

DNRCustoms

Why wouldn't you hook up the boost line?? Your talkin about the line the goes to the top of the pump....enlighten me!!

Milt

When I put mine in I did it outside in the driveway. It is pretty steep and the front of the truck was pointing uphill. When I finished it would not start. I checked everything and I had installed it correctly. I finally let it back out of my driveway and pointed it down the street. Started up after a couple of cranks. Was a big improvement. With my mods (which aren't mush) I still get about 22-23 mpg.

This weekend I will be changing the antilock valve in the back and figuring why my Isspro pyro gauge just decided not to work. After that why it pulls left even though it has new tires, aligned and all new front brake components. It's fun to work on though.

wannadiesel

I think he meant not to be like him and forget to reconnect the AFC tube.

The_Head

yeah I forgot to hook it up and I was like "***, this pin doesnt do crap"

stinkindiesel

Can you tell me more? Changing it to a new one or changing it to something that circumvents the valve?

TIA!

Stinker

Milt

I have a very unusual 1st gen. It has always had a very firm brake pedal. Brakes work great but my rears just lock when I do a panic type stop. I have checked the box behind the glove box and removed and reconnected the plug. I did a comlete bleed job of the rear system including the antilock valve. I can only surmise at this point that the valve is not functioning. I do not have either a brake or ABS light. The truck sat for a couple of years and I think the valve may be stuck. I'll report back when it is installed. The valve is not cheap, but I got it for the best price at NAPA for $141. I really do not want the valve disabled as I usually have no load.

I really like my truck but would like to catch up with all the little things some day. Both of my cowl's are cracked by the windshield post but you can no longer get the kits to repair. I also have a leak that makes the carpet wet under the drivers floor side only.

92roughstock

Stinker- I think he means bypassing the valve altogether.

I, too, have an unusual 1stGen. I installed a new master cylinder recently, and even with the RWAL valve still in the hydraulic circuit, I have a great pedal- comparable to the 04 Dakota (except when i make a panic stop, my truck stops instead of letting go the brakes). If you have a good pedal, I'd leave well enough alone, might try backing off the adjustment of your rears just a tad if lock-up concerns you.

Milt- double and triple check all your connections, esp grounds, associated with the pyro hook up. I had a similar problem in a 91 I had.

This post had absolutely nothing to do with fuel pins. Uh..... I saved my money and just ground mine on a belt sander, then buffed it to a highly polished shine.

Jet100

My 2 cents, If i forget to turn my brake controller back down after i pull my 5th wheel, it will drag the drive tires.
I also have a very good pedal..

peobryant

I found it now, I don't know how I missed it the first time...

Thanks

'91 VE

Is it in the sticky under performance? Fuel pin info...? Sorry I'm very new to these trucks