CaptainChrysler

I am going to order a new shaft today. Should I get the two joint model? You can run that if you have splines on the end of the column, right? '93 tilt.

Thanks.

CaptainChrysler

Well after reading on here, I decided on the two joint shaft. Will look for set-screws.

BearKiller

I see your truck is a 93; you should be able to use the two-joint shaft.

Just above the rag-joint should be a roll-pin that will allow the entire rag-joint to come off when removed.


The older shafts are solid to the top half of the rag-joint, thus without some owner-engineering, the two-joint shaft cannot be used.

BearKiller

I have so far installed two Borgesons, one on my Ford and another on the son's 1990 W-250.


In the school of hard knocks, I have learned a few ways to avoid falling into the pot-holes that the generic instructions and, with all respect, the sticky articles have left to imagination.


Besides the obvious, here is some of what I have learned.

1. The Dodge upper steering shaft can and will telescope downward, once the lower shaft is removed.
You don't want to lose it's stock positioning, which is part of why several have had some scare issues after the installation.
Before removing anything, permanently mark the upper shaft at the point where it disappears into the portion of the column that is sticking out from the fire-wall, such that this amount of extension can be maintained upon completion of installation.

2. The Borgeson can and will collapse; not what is wanted on a Dodge set-up.
Just look at the factory lower shaft; it is SOLID, with no provision for telescoping; there is a REASON for this.
I ignored the instructions and discarded the Borgeson supplied rubber boot; then, once I had the shaft mounted and the previously mentioned mark on the upper shaft in it's original position, I slid the Borgeson locking-collar AGAINST the outer tube and locked it, such that the Borgeson CANNOT collapse.

3. The factory-original rag-joint hardware is superior to that supplied with the aftermarket rag, so I cleaned/painted it and used it instead.

4. Once everything is installed DO NOT drill/grind any indentation for the locking set-screw at the spline end, YET.
If you do, the steering-wheel is bound to end up off-center, and you will end up with half a dozen set-screw pockets in the splined stub, all in the wrong place.
Instead, lock the set-screw tightly against the splined-stub and go out on the hard-road for a test-drive in a long straight stretch; twenty or thirty MPH is plenty fast enough for our purposes.
If the steering-wheel is centered, then drill/grind the recess, apply Loctite, and tighten/lock the set-screw.
If the wheel is off center, loosen the set-screw and relocate the yoke on the splines, tighten everything back up, and test-drive again.

5. When ready to drill the recess for the set-screw, instead of completely removing the yoke from the splines, loosen the set-screw, leaving everything else intact, take a pry-bar and pull the yoke almost off, but still splined; this keeps the yoke located on the correct splines; drill a pocket for the screw and release the yoke, sliding it back in place, install the Loctited set-screw/lock-nut and you are finished.

6. WARNING!!!!! The splined stud is HOLLOW and open to the flow of power-steering fluid. (Don't ask me how I know)
Do not drill/grind the recess for the set-screw too deep.

7. Before final installation of the yoke, coat the splines with anti-sieze; you may want it apart again someday.

8. If you really want to secure the yoke, once final location is determined, mark the location of the factory channel for the roll-pin on the yoke, center-punch, drill, and tap the yoke for a second set-screw that will locate in the roll-pin recess.
The Borgeson supplied set-screws are 5/16-18 thread.



Follow this advice at your own risk and discretion.

This is how I fixed the son's truck and also how I would fix any others.

CaptainChrysler

Thank You very much for the tips.
How hard is it to (semi) permanently attach the lower steering coulmn shaft to the upper? (eliminate the plastic retainer)?

wannadiesel

A couple of points: filing a flat on the shaft will prevent you from striking oil. The Dodge shaft IS collapsible, but it takes a crash to do it, whereas the Borgeson is collapsible by hand.

R C Cola

Good suggestions all. I bought the shaft with 2 u-Joints and am happy with it. Have had some trouble with mine, it seems to need to have some play (perhaps 1/4 inch or so) up and down the length of the shaft (previously handled by the factory rag joint). I feel that I will need to lube the inner and outer shaft at the point where they meet to allow for this. (they were rusted together and could not move) (more in search of my posts on borgeson at TDR) Another tip that sounded good is to only cut off just enough of the Borge inner shaft to barely slip in to place which would keep a steering column failure inside the factory unit from causing an accident. R C

CaptainChrysler

Well, I got it. Under the rubber boot there is a screw, but it is to keep the shaft from pulling apart. The instructions I got say to position the round lock collar up against the rubber boot.

BearKiller

That is also what my instruction-sheet said; but, when I set it up like that, the stub sticking out of the fire-wall would slide out and collapse the Borgeson.

I didn't like the looks of that; sorta looked like the steering-wheel could fall off.