I have done several 10-12lb launches in 4x4 on the street...so far with no failures, last time I was at the track I only ran in 2wd and couldn't boost at all, the track must have been very greasy that night, I will run in 4x4 the next time and only go to 10lb.

my truck only runs a 9.8 @ 76 in the 1/8th though, I think BC in the mid 12's @ well over 100mph in a 1/4

 

I can't believe he's down to 1.69 60'

That's crazy. Must be doing some hefty boosted launches for those numbers. I'd love to see a few videos of his truck running down the track. More recent ones anyway.

 

I think BC is doing over 20psi boosted runs, but as he has said things break when you do that.

 

That is crazy, i run those with my race car (well, really its a street/strip car) not my tow truck!

 

Last year's ending typical was 8.05ish in the eighth (@ 250') at 83 ~ 84 or so (@ 6400lbs). Haven't been to the track a lot this year, been going to the beach the last 8 or so out of the last 12 weekends. I'm hauling light construction crap down there and don't want to hurt the truck. Hurt the truck, can't go to the beach.
Been doing some tinkering on the truck off and on, recently installed a New-Old Stock 12mm IP. Getting it dialed-in is slow. I've removed the KSB entirely. Been doing some R&D with increased case-pressure so as to have better, high speed H/R fill-time while maintaining a stockish timing advance curve. Installed some NON-ICed DVs last weekend. It's getting back to where it was last year.

I did go to the track back in May and made a couple of passes while trying to dial-in the timing dohicky. Ran WAY slow at 8.71 and 8.72 (Gotta turn stuff the other way ). I've got videos of most all the more recent passes. Nothing worth noting though.

Some months ago, I installed the new IP and was having traction issues in 4wd while trying to dial it in . . .

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The latest goal is trying to get into the very high 7's at the local 1/8th mile track.


I do typically launch at 20(or so)psig boost these days. It wants to push through the brakes if you don't mash'em pretty good. 4wd the entire pass.

Long list of crap in the engine: HT3B and S362/14, custom Hellman IC, PDR ported/O-ringed head w/12mm studs. Hamilton steel 188/220 cam, HD push-rods and springs, Schied 6x.016" injectors as well as all the other mess.
Custom home built all billet/alloy 46/48RH hybrid trans.

Old but, best 60' . . . . . .



Best 1/4th ET . . ..




It's a fun truck to drive. Still working on it.

 

After reading that whole thing only 2 things pop out.

1. Why the 188/220 steel cam over the cast? doesn't that require block bushings?

and

2. I had no idea you were running those times... that's a nasty 1/4 mile time for a first gen.

Maybe one of these days I'll throw my motor back in a first gen reg. cab and dial it in to try and snag top ET! Saving weight will help. I need a set of compounds though.

I have a head that is en-route to c-tech as of right now for a cnc p&p and I'm getting oversized valves too. Only other thing, I wish I went with a 188/220 when I built the motor... I didn't have the extra money it costs though at the time. It would spool this a4000 and let things breathe a little better I think. Realistically, I probably need bigger injectors. My next set will be extrude honed 6 hole. I've already decided on that. Probably 6x14 edm then extrude honed to the 80lpm ball park.

 

David,

What size tire are you running on that truck?

 

According to Zach, "Block bushings are required when running high rpms and high valve spring pressures". Apparently such is not applicable with the relatively low revving VE fueled Cummins. I'm running his basic HD springs.

The steel 188/220 (top) and his initial 181/210 (lower) . . .




33" BFG All Terrain Radials.

 

That's why I was curious. I didn't think we (or you even) would run high enough rpms and spring pressures to warrant the steel cam. That's more of a Sled pulling cam where they're running 5k rpm amd dual springs was my take on it.

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It's amazing what the stock driveline components can take. Mine rarely sees the track, but the transfer case and front axle are stock.

 

Actually, Zach was kind enough cut me a deal on the steel unit after swapping some livestock with me earlier in other dealings . . . . .. . yeah, . . . . . . that's what it was . . . . .




Ron, you're absolutely right. I'm running on sooooo much luck and borrowed time. I've renewed the rear drive-shaft assembly perhaps four years ago (U-joints and center support bearing assly). I replaced the rear ring & pinion, as well as the carrier and pinion bearings maybe 125,000 miles ago. The rear limited-slip as well as the entire front diff are stock/OEM.
I replaced all the bearings in the NP205 from it's input to it's rear output shaft perhaps 8000 miles ago as a predictive maintenance thing.


The rear diff bangs pretty-good when shifting from reverse to drive, etc.

 

You take good care of your stuff. That's probably why your "luck" is holding.

 

Speaking of axles... I'm having my sterling 10.5" rebuilt as I type this. The factory ls in those axles is complete junk so I'm going to give an Eaton true trac a try. If there is one thing I truly miss from the old dodge it is the reliability and tightness of the factory ls unit in the d70...

The d60 front in the first gens is great too, save that smaller u joint yoke... Upgrading the front drive shaft to 1410 is good, but other than that it's a great unit too.

No word of a lie, it has crossed my mind to put the old dodge d60 and 70 under the ford. Probably a dumb idea that's not worth the hassle but it did cross my mind.

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