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all these gauges..wiring ..etc..

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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 09:35 PM
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all these gauges..wiring ..etc..

what is everyone using to wire up there gauges.. lighting..etc.. seperate fuse panel.. tied back into the fuse box? what is the correct way to do it?
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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Any time I add any amount of electronics I use an aux fuse block. Most parts stores will carry a basic 4-5 circuit block. In the case of a few gauges a single inline fuse will do.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Patriot_Auto
Any time I add any amount of electronics I use an aux fuse block. Most parts stores will carry a basic 4-5 circuit block. In the case of a few gauges a single inline fuse will do.
From Painless Wiring. You can get them with always hot or key on only in the same block. Nice, neat & clean but you can make your own from scratch almost as good.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 04:23 AM
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I guess I have added a few circuits to my fuse panel.
I also use an ATO (Automotive Technology Organization) fuse of the appropriate amperage and install it as an inline fuse by using 2 insulated .250 female spade terminals.

What I have done here is I will extend the fuse off from the panel and add several sub-circuits to the Line side while I returned the Load back to the circuit in the fuse block.

Now with my external leads I connect as many ATO fuses as I need for my extra circuits.



In this view of the rear of the fuse block you can see where I used the switched lead for the IGN portion of the block that now only is used to trigger a 75 amp Bosch power relay.

Now all of the circuits that were controlled by the key switch have been redirected through the relay so now the Ignition switch only switches minimal current and should last much longer.

The fuse panel now supplies full battery power and is not affected by any voltage drop from the original wiring.



Here you can get an idea of how I use the fuses inline.



On my heavier circuits I will use a 200-amp “T” style fuse to protect the alternator and my inverter.

My ideal way would be to build a distribution panel using Aircraft type circuit breakers with tattletale LED’s for each breaker to tell which circuit had tripped, of course it would be switched by relays. The entire panel could be mounted behind the seat or under the driver’s side of the front seat accessible with the door open.
But this would be if I had the time.

Jim
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 04:52 AM
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Wow, you even make the OEM rat's nest look neat Jim!

No more hot spots like the AC/Htr huh?

Somehow I have a feeling that you'll "get around to it"!
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 05:34 AM
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The burned fuse spot was the reason I installed a relay to the blower motor.

Sad part is most people don't even realize their electrical system is consuming itself as they drive until they smell smoke.
Remember Apollo1? I think Dodge built their electrical system.

I do have some ideas for a distribution panel that would go next to the door under the seat.
Jim


Originally Posted by KRB
Wow, you even make the OEM rat's nest look neat Jim!

No more hot spots like the AC/Htr huh?

Somehow I have a feeling that you'll "get around to it"!
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
I do have some ideas for a distribution panel that would go next to the door under the seat.
Jim
And I'm sure that you'll do an exceptionally detailed write-up/how-to of it when you do making all of us wonder "why didn't I think of that?"


Keep up the good work Jim!
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 06:42 AM
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jim fly on over here to pennsylvania and rewire up my truck will ya
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 08:29 AM
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I ran an auxillary fuse box and mounted it behind the glove box.
all these gauges..wiring ..etc..-fuse1.jpg
all these gauges..wiring ..etc..-fuse2.jpg
It looks like more of a mess in the picture, but i ran all of those wires in conduit, just didn't get any pictures of that. It really helped to organize the mess I had on the drivers side. The box is connected to a relay that is triggered by and ignition source. Some time I should wire up a box that is always on, but this works for now.
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