Hey guys,

Last summer I bought the Advance Adapters kit to put an NV4500 in my truck. First, I noticed that the bolt holes that secure the bell to the adapter plate were not spot faced. They were just a rough casting, and I had to machine away quite a bit of material to make a bolt head sit flat. Next, as I was installing the transmission, I noticed that they had sent me two transmission mounts. One of them doesn't fit, and the other one was thin and super cheap, so I made my own. I got to the 4x4 linkeage... It was also super cheap, and was missing parts, so once again, I made my own. I proceeded with my transmission install, and have been pretty happy despite the somewhat disappointing $495-ish purchase. (The NV4500 is awesome!)

So tonight, I decide to do some troubleshooting with my crank position sensor. I needed to turn the crank over to locate the flat under the sensor to see if it was working properly. I put my engine barring tool in the hole in the adapter plate, clip my ratchet on, and start turning. I got maybe 1/8 of a turn, and it slipped, and got stuck. I never had any problems with the old bell housing. After a few minutes of fighting with it, I realized I was going to be there a while. I jacked the front of the truck up, set it on jack stands, got more lights, etc. It took me over an hour to get it back out! I managed to beat it up pretty good in the process (It was at least $75) Not that it's of any use of me now....

Have any of you guys had any issues using your engine barring tools with Advance Adapter bell housings? Nowhere did I see in the literature that I'd have to remove the transmission to do maintenance or adjust valves....

 

I'm also reading that the AA bell housing doesn't accept a dual disk clutch....

 

The only way that I can see the AA bell housing changing the way the barring tool works is if it has somehow created a flex or strain on the adapter plate which could have happened with all the cleanup work you had to do on the bell housing. I have read that some people have been able to use the DD clutch with the AA kit but I know from experience that even a stock clutch can have interference with the AA bell housing. I've done one kit from AA that took a little work with a die grinder to clean up the casting so the pressure plate would not rub.

 

I would guess that the problem probably lies with either poor geometry when building the mold for casting, or in the machining of the area the barring tool rides in.

 

What a barring tool?

I've adjusted my valves many of times never used any special tools
Dont remember all of them off the top of my head a few open end box end wrenches, feeler gauge for the cover and vales.
1/2' ratchet and a bigger socket 15/16 or something like that to roll the motor over using the nut on the ALT

 

I never use my Barring tool to actually turn my crankshaft over. It does come in handy in keeping the crank in place when you are torquing flywheel bolts, harmonic damper bolts etc.(If the engine is bare) Make sure you have the flywheel on snug before using it for that though.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=cumm...ml%3B640%3B480

 

I was not very impressed with the AA kit when swapping in a NV-4500 into my black crew cab.
The bell fit well, but the brackets for the '92/'93 "Z" gate 4x4 shifter and the way the linkage worked was a joke.
I had to modify and tinker with the linkage for hours to get it to work well.
I also need to go get other bolts as the grade 5 ones that go through the top plate of the NV-4500 looked cheap, short and weak.

I turn the engine over using the Alt . nut method usually myself.

 

Thanks guys!

I've never used the alternator nut method. I'll have to give that a try. It sounds much easier.

I should give AA a call to let them know what I think.... I went this route because I thought it would be a cleaner approach than using OEM 2nd gen parts. What a joke.

 

I would try using 2nd gen parts the next time I swap a NV-4500 into a 1st gen as well.