So this one I have should have power to it all the time except when cold?

That's EXACTLY what I'm going to do. In fact, the power steering pump is now off and tomorrow I'll be making a cover. The old gasket looked brand new, so it will get re-used.

Thanks j. I may be asking how to change a governor spring in the future, but I'll run it first and see how it acts.

 

Wow , that is neat, I have always like complex machinery where there is lots of dangerous moving parts exposed.

Are the saws run with a hydraulic motor or is a regular gas chainsaw?

What loads the logs into the processor, is there some hopper or does it require a person to keep it full?

Is the engine is only going to drive a hydraulic pump, are you going to keep a flywheel or just a flex plate?

What will sense the positions of the log and actuate the saws and rams, any electronics or is that the operators job..

Are there plans for these or are you designing your own?

All of the Cummins powered stationary equipment I have worked on all have Lucas CAV injection pumps on them,

I would also try a vernier Adjust cable or you could install a belt driven governor like a Barber Coleman or a Woodward that would keep it constant regardless of load.

Sorry for all of the questions.

Jim

 

oliver, for non intercooled engines:first check your electronic control module serial number (thats the black box on the cowl).early modules below serial number 0080000a preheat -9c(15f),and later modules preheat 15c(59f).there should be no voltage at the ksb valve if the intake manifold temperature is less than 15c(59f).the ksb valve should have voltage at the valve terminal if the intake manifold has heated to 15c(59f) or above. so yes,after warm up voltage all the time.keep in mind the ksb valve activation voltage is independant of the intake manifold heater control system.

 

Me too!

Hydraulic motor. Some mfg's use a hydraulic PUMP, and run it as a motor. They get fast RPM's for cheap money but they're not designed for this and as a result, don't get the service life.

The 'live deck' will hold 8 to 12 logs, depending on diameter, and are loaded by a loader with forks or grapples. The live deck has 2 or 3 'strands' with chains that resemble heavy duty manure spreader chains driven by low speed hydraulic motors. the logs sit on these chains and when the hydraulic motor is activated by the operator the logs are advanced into the in-feed trough. The in-feed trough has its' own chain and advances the log into the saw. This is a little long but will give you a better idea of the over-all operation:


Here's another with a circular slasher saw instead of a chainsaw.


I'm in the process of making a stubshaft that will mount to the Cummins flywheel and drive 3 belt driven pumps. One pump will operate each major function of the machine; splitting ram, off-bearing conveyor and ancillary functions like the saw and feed chains.

The operator will control all functions of the machine thru the use of hydraulic valves much like on a backhoe.

Not that I know of. I'm taking the best ideas of 3 or 4 manufacturers and combining them into one machine. One of my major peeves with all the manufactured wood processors is that they will only process logs, and only those that are 20 to 22 inches in diameter. If they're short logs, like 24" long chunks, the machines won't process them. There's too much space between the live deck strands and they'd just fall thru. Mine will be able to operate like a conventional wood splitter without using the live deck or in-feed trough. It may be difficult to envision what I'm talking about, but I'll post pics as I go along. I have a couple of tree company's that bring me 'chunks' that are anywhere from 12 to 30 inches long, and I want to be able to utilize them without having a separate woodsplitter to split them.

The motor will be too far away from the operators station to use a vernier cable I think. I have a control that I think will work. Hard to explain what this thing is because I don't even know what they call it, but I'll post pics when I set it up.

Glad you're asking. I LIKE explaining my madness to anyone that'll listen!

 

Okay, I'm a little confused now. I don't know what the serial number is because it is gone, no ECM came with the truck. There wasn't a cab or nose even. This IS a non-intercooled engine tho. So power all the time to the KSB or only when cold?

 

The KSB is a wax motor. When cold it advances the timing. When power is put to it, it heats up slowly and retards the timing. The colder it is to start with, the longer it takes to heat up.

You can probably safely wire it to the FSO and let it do it's thing. In other words, when you turn on the ignition it gets power. If there's an intake manifold temp switch in the original, it wouldn't hurt to wire that in series with the KSB

You don't need a PCM for anything. About the only thing it would do is field the alternator, and you can do that with a voltage regulator. The TPS and CPS are not needed.

 

Not completely sure, but I don't think 90 non-ic motors have an ecm, I am sure that my 90 doesn't...Mark

 

non intercooled (1989 1990) engines have an ecm.it is located on the engine side of the cowl towards the drivers fender from the steering column. it is a black box about twice the size of a pack of cigarettes.all this ecm does is control the ksb and the grid heaters.chaikwa,if you want to use an ecm either one will work,early or later style.but,you don't need an ecm.just run a hot wire from the ignition to the ksb.voltage all the time the engine is running (just what j martin said).to confuse you more you can delete the ksb all together.anybody familar with these pumps can delete it right on the engine without taking the pump off.all the ksb really does is keep the engine from smoking a little white smoke when you first start up.and this keeps our friends the air pollution people happy.

 

You are right, I was thinking of the one that controls everything, like the alternator, on IC trucks. I looked at mine and it is the one that has a vacuum line and a connector, but it is about half the size of a pack of cigarettes...Mark

 

maybe368,you are looking at the wrong thing.see pictures: first one is ecm on the truck,second is front view and third is rear view of ecm.see the serial number on the paper label.

 

Thanks man, I have owned my truck for more than 12 years and I have never even noticed that box. I have even changed my booster twice, probably had my hand on it. I think I have pre-alzheimers disease......Mark

 

once you put on the bar for the lenght cut you may find it to be to slow...i know ours was ...i drool over swing saws

 

Chaikwa,

Now only if there was a machine to stack it!

 

Thats some sweet seasoned wood being split in the video. The green blackjack oak dont split like that here!!!!!

 

There's no reason for a bar saw to be slow. It's all about flow and I can't for the life of me figure out why anyone building these things, worth anywhere between 40 and 70 grand, would cheap out on the main hydraulic pump. Combined, mine will have a total flow of 98 GM.

I've been told my multiple sources that wood dries quicker and better if it's piled instead of stacked. We'll see, when it comes off the conveyor it will be piled. And remained piled until I use it!

My splitting cylinder is 6" in diameter and will have about 3000psi feeding it. It *SHOULD* split a car if I can fit it in there!