Finally got my motor for the wood processor, but there are some things I'd like to know before I go ripping and tearing things apart. I know these are probably mundane questions for those of you that are familiar with these, but I'm not one of them and any help would be greatly appreciated! This was in a '90 W350.

 

A.)KSB

Yes, cold starts. Changes timing. Do NOT put blue wire to ground. You can toggle switch it 12V (hot wire) for cold starts.

B.) Two bolts remove the pump. Gear is helical and will come right out attached to pump after you take the 2 bolts out. Does not drive anything else. You will need to block off hole or just leave the pump and let it spin.

 

Wow, that was fast! Thanks!

 

What is a wood processor, something like a woodchuck?

Are you replacing a Cummins or some other form of power?

Does the speed need to be governed precisely?

Looks like it lived at the beach for awhile.

Jim

 

Jim, a processor cuts to length and splits wood. He's building it.

 

Mine will be very similar to this one, only a little bigger/faster. According to my calculations, it should do about 4 cords per hour.


Nope, building from scratch.

Not precisely, no. I'd like it to stay around 1800 RPM's if I can do it. I'm assuming these motors from the trucks have no governor, but I'm hoping that since I need only about 70HP, the 160 the motor puts out won't place so much of a strain on it that it will drastically reduce the RPM's. If I can set it to 2000RPM's and the load drags it down to 1800, that's fine. However, if you have a governor solution, I'm all ears!

Nope, spent it's whole life here in Michigan.

 

What HE ↑ ↑ ↑ said!

 

Yes these motors have a governor. The factory spring is set to about 2500 RPM. You can pin the throttle and it will start to cut the fuel off around 2300 and then will not rev past about 2500.

The best fuel consumption for these motors...the sweet spot...is from about 1750-2100 rpm.

 

ok mr scott .. ic an give a little info here..on the farm we had a timber harvester with a 4 banger perkins non turbo i found that for me itd run best around 2200-2300 rpm becouse then it wouldnt bog down as much as it would if set at 1800 rpm with the 5.9 the govaner in the pump along with the turbo should keep it from really bogging down at all ,also are putting a bar and chain on for the length cut or are you going with swing saw?

 

I knew they had a rev limiting governor, but I didn't think they had a governor that would hold the RPM wherever you set it.

Thanks for the info! And I'll be using a 32" bar.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but the non IC Trucks KSB should be hot while key is on. So he should run constant 12v to it?

 

True, that picture looks like the early KSB with the longer solenoid. They are backward from the later ones in that they remove power from the solenoid when cold, and apply power when warm.

 

do NOT just let the P/S pump spin, unless you run a line from the pressure out let to the return hose nipple and put ps fluid in the pump, otherwise the pump WILL burn up, lock up and cause a bunch of nasty things to happen. best to remove the pump and bolt a cover plate on the back of the timing case. cut a plate from 10 or 12 ga sheet metal, drill two holes, clean the plate and timing case with acetone or brake kleener, run a bead of red or black silicone, and bolt`er on. done !! one less thing to worry `bout !!!!

 

So the NON I/Ced trucks should have hot key on power to the KSB all the time?
My white '85 crew I just swapped using a '89 12V, I just have hot key on power to the FSS.
I don't have the KSB hooked up at all right now.

 

I'd be willing to bet that it'll be good enough for you to use a set and lock throttle cable on it. If it's a little too wild, you can change the governor spring for a lighter one and get the rpm to limit where you want it.

Or you could run it at 2500 and go for 6 cords/hour.