1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

1st Gen Novice needs help from the pro's

Old 04-27-2013 | 05:31 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by torquefan
True, that picture looks like the early KSB with the longer solenoid. They are backward from the later ones in that they remove power from the solenoid when cold, and apply power when warm.
So this one I have should have power to it all the time except when cold?

Originally Posted by jtamulonis
best to remove the pump and bolt a cover plate on the back of the timing case. cut a plate from 10 or 12 ga sheet metal, drill two holes, clean the plate and timing case with acetone or brake kleener, run a bead of red or black silicone, and bolt`er on. done !! one less thing to worry `bout !!!!
That's EXACTLY what I'm going to do. In fact, the power steering pump is now off and tomorrow I'll be making a cover. The old gasket looked brand new, so it will get re-used.

Originally Posted by j_martin
I'd be willing to bet that it'll be good enough for you to use a set and lock throttle cable on it. If it's a little too wild, you can change the governor spring for a lighter one and get the rpm to limit where you want it.

Or you could run it at 2500 and go for 6 cords/hour.
Thanks j. I may be asking how to change a governor spring in the future, but I'll run it first and see how it acts.
Old 04-27-2013 | 05:49 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by chaikwa
What HE ↑ ↑ ↑ said!
Wow , that is neat, I have always like complex machinery where there is lots of dangerous moving parts exposed.

Are the saws run with a hydraulic motor or is a regular gas chainsaw?

What loads the logs into the processor, is there some hopper or does it require a person to keep it full?

Is the engine is only going to drive a hydraulic pump, are you going to keep a flywheel or just a flex plate?

What will sense the positions of the log and actuate the saws and rams, any electronics or is that the operators job..

Are there plans for these or are you designing your own?

All of the Cummins powered stationary equipment I have worked on all have Lucas CAV injection pumps on them,

I would also try a vernier Adjust cable or you could install a belt driven governor like a Barber Coleman or a Woodward that would keep it constant regardless of load.

Sorry for all of the questions.

Jim
Old 04-27-2013 | 07:15 PM
  #18  
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oliver, for non intercooled engines:first check your electronic control module serial number (thats the black box on the cowl).early modules below serial number 0080000a preheat -9c(15f),and later modules preheat 15c(59f).there should be no voltage at the ksb valve if the intake manifold temperature is less than 15c(59f).the ksb valve should have voltage at the valve terminal if the intake manifold has heated to 15c(59f) or above. so yes,after warm up voltage all the time.keep in mind the ksb valve activation voltage is independant of the intake manifold heater control system.
Old 04-27-2013 | 08:32 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Wow , that is neat, I have always like complex machinery where there is lots of dangerous moving parts exposed.
Me too!

Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Are the saws run with a hydraulic motor or is a regular gas chainsaw?
Hydraulic motor. Some mfg's use a hydraulic PUMP, and run it as a motor. They get fast RPM's for cheap money but they're not designed for this and as a result, don't get the service life.

Originally Posted by Jim Lane
What loads the logs into the processor, is there some hopper or does it require a person to keep it full?
The 'live deck' will hold 8 to 12 logs, depending on diameter, and are loaded by a loader with forks or grapples. The live deck has 2 or 3 'strands' with chains that resemble heavy duty manure spreader chains driven by low speed hydraulic motors. the logs sit on these chains and when the hydraulic motor is activated by the operator the logs are advanced into the in-feed trough. The in-feed trough has its' own chain and advances the log into the saw. This is a little long but will give you a better idea of the over-all operation:


Here's another with a circular slasher saw instead of a chainsaw.


Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Is the engine is only going to drive a hydraulic pump, are you going to keep a flywheel or just a flex plate?
I'm in the process of making a stubshaft that will mount to the Cummins flywheel and drive 3 belt driven pumps. One pump will operate each major function of the machine; splitting ram, off-bearing conveyor and ancillary functions like the saw and feed chains.

Originally Posted by Jim Lane
What will sense the positions of the log and actuate the saws and rams, any electronics or is that the operators job..
The operator will control all functions of the machine thru the use of hydraulic valves much like on a backhoe.

Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Are there plans for these or are you designing your own?
Not that I know of. I'm taking the best ideas of 3 or 4 manufacturers and combining them into one machine. One of my major peeves with all the manufactured wood processors is that they will only process logs, and only those that are 20 to 22 inches in diameter. If they're short logs, like 24" long chunks, the machines won't process them. There's too much space between the live deck strands and they'd just fall thru. Mine will be able to operate like a conventional wood splitter without using the live deck or in-feed trough. It may be difficult to envision what I'm talking about, but I'll post pics as I go along. I have a couple of tree company's that bring me 'chunks' that are anywhere from 12 to 30 inches long, and I want to be able to utilize them without having a separate woodsplitter to split them.

Originally Posted by Jim Lane
I would also try a vernier Adjust cable or you could install a belt driven governor like a Barber Coleman or a Woodward that would keep it constant regardless of load.
The motor will be too far away from the operators station to use a vernier cable I think. I have a control that I think will work. Hard to explain what this thing is because I don't even know what they call it, but I'll post pics when I set it up.

Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Sorry for all of the questions.

Jim
Glad you're asking. I LIKE explaining my madness to anyone that'll listen!
Old 04-27-2013 | 08:42 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by cseby
oliver, for non intercooled engines:first check your electronic control module serial number (thats the black box on the cowl).early modules below serial number 0080000a preheat -9c(15f),and later modules preheat 15c(59f).there should be no voltage at the ksb valve if the intake manifold temperature is less than 15c(59f).the ksb valve should have voltage at the valve terminal if the intake manifold has heated to 15c(59f) or above. so yes,after warm up voltage all the time.keep in mind the ksb valve activation voltage is independant of the intake manifold heater control system.
Okay, I'm a little confused now. I don't know what the serial number is because it is gone, no ECM came with the truck. There wasn't a cab or nose even. This IS a non-intercooled engine tho. So power all the time to the KSB or only when cold?
Old 04-27-2013 | 09:06 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by chaikwa
Okay, I'm a little confused now. I don't know what the serial number is because it is gone, no ECM came with the truck. There wasn't a cab or nose even. This IS a non-intercooled engine tho. So power all the time to the KSB or only when cold?
The KSB is a wax motor. When cold it advances the timing. When power is put to it, it heats up slowly and retards the timing. The colder it is to start with, the longer it takes to heat up.

You can probably safely wire it to the FSO and let it do it's thing. In other words, when you turn on the ignition it gets power. If there's an intake manifold temp switch in the original, it wouldn't hurt to wire that in series with the KSB

You don't need a PCM for anything. About the only thing it would do is field the alternator, and you can do that with a voltage regulator. The TPS and CPS are not needed.
Old 04-27-2013 | 10:13 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by chaikwa
Okay, I'm a little confused now. I don't know what the serial number is because it is gone, no ECM came with the truck. There wasn't a cab or nose even. This IS a non-intercooled engine tho. So power all the time to the KSB or only when cold?
Not completely sure, but I don't think 90 non-ic motors have an ecm, I am sure that my 90 doesn't...Mark
Old 04-28-2013 | 04:45 AM
  #23  
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non intercooled (1989 1990) engines have an ecm.it is located on the engine side of the cowl towards the drivers fender from the steering column. it is a black box about twice the size of a pack of cigarettes.all this ecm does is control the ksb and the grid heaters.chaikwa,if you want to use an ecm either one will work,early or later style.but,you don't need an ecm.just run a hot wire from the ignition to the ksb.voltage all the time the engine is running (just what j martin said).to confuse you more you can delete the ksb all together.anybody familar with these pumps can delete it right on the engine without taking the pump off.all the ksb really does is keep the engine from smoking a little white smoke when you first start up.and this keeps our friends the air pollution people happy.
Old 04-28-2013 | 08:20 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by cseby
non intercooled (1989 1990) engines have an ecm.it is located on the engine side of the cowl towards the drivers fender from the steering column. it is a black box about twice the size of a pack of cigarettes.all this ecm does is control the ksb and the grid heaters.chaikwa,if you want to use an ecm either one will work,early or later style.but,you don't need an ecm.just run a hot wire from the ignition to the ksb.voltage all the time the engine is running (just what j martin said).to confuse you more you can delete the ksb all together.anybody familar with these pumps can delete it right on the engine without taking the pump off.all the ksb really does is keep the engine from smoking a little white smoke when you first start up.and this keeps our friends the air pollution people happy.
You are right, I was thinking of the one that controls everything, like the alternator, on IC trucks. I looked at mine and it is the one that has a vacuum line and a connector, but it is about half the size of a pack of cigarettes...Mark
Old 04-28-2013 | 09:24 AM
  #25  
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maybe368,you are looking at the wrong thing.see pictures: first one is ecm on the truck,second is front view and third is rear view of ecm.see the serial number on the paper label.
Attached Thumbnails 1st Gen Novice needs help from the pro's-001.jpg   1st Gen Novice needs help from the pro's-002.jpg   1st Gen Novice needs help from the pro's-003.jpg  
Old 04-28-2013 | 10:38 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cseby
maybe368,you are looking at the wrong thing.see pictures: first one is ecm on the truck,second is front view and third is rear view of ecm.see the serial number on the paper label.
Thanks man, I have owned my truck for more than 12 years and I have never even noticed that box. I have even changed my booster twice, probably had my hand on it. I think I have pre-alzheimers disease......Mark
Old 04-28-2013 | 11:59 AM
  #27  
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once you put on the bar for the lenght cut you may find it to be to slow...i know ours was ...i drool over swing saws
Old 04-29-2013 | 01:15 PM
  #28  
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Chaikwa,

Now only if there was a machine to stack it!
Old 05-01-2013 | 12:45 PM
  #29  
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Thats some sweet seasoned wood being split in the video. The green blackjack oak dont split like that here!!!!!
Old 05-01-2013 | 03:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by twichit
once you put on the bar for the lenght cut you may find it to be to slow...i know ours was ...i drool over swing saws
There's no reason for a bar saw to be slow. It's all about flow and I can't for the life of me figure out why anyone building these things, worth anywhere between 40 and 70 grand, would cheap out on the main hydraulic pump. Combined, mine will have a total flow of 98 GM.

Originally Posted by bannerd
Chaikwa,

Now only if there was a machine to stack it!
I've been told my multiple sources that wood dries quicker and better if it's piled instead of stacked. We'll see, when it comes off the conveyor it will be piled. And remained piled until I use it!

Originally Posted by deanhinsley1963
Thats some sweet seasoned wood being split in the video. The green blackjack oak dont split like that here!!!!!
My splitting cylinder is 6" in diameter and will have about 3000psi feeding it. It *SHOULD* split a car if I can fit it in there!
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