1st Gen Novice needs help from the pro's
#16
best to remove the pump and bolt a cover plate on the back of the timing case. cut a plate from 10 or 12 ga sheet metal, drill two holes, clean the plate and timing case with acetone or brake kleener, run a bead of red or black silicone, and bolt`er on. done !! one less thing to worry `bout !!!!
I'd be willing to bet that it'll be good enough for you to use a set and lock throttle cable on it. If it's a little too wild, you can change the governor spring for a lighter one and get the rpm to limit where you want it.
Or you could run it at 2500 and go for 6 cords/hour.
Or you could run it at 2500 and go for 6 cords/hour.
#17
Wow , that is neat, I have always like complex machinery where there is lots of dangerous moving parts exposed.
Are the saws run with a hydraulic motor or is a regular gas chainsaw?
What loads the logs into the processor, is there some hopper or does it require a person to keep it full?
Is the engine is only going to drive a hydraulic pump, are you going to keep a flywheel or just a flex plate?
What will sense the positions of the log and actuate the saws and rams, any electronics or is that the operators job..
Are there plans for these or are you designing your own?
All of the Cummins powered stationary equipment I have worked on all have Lucas CAV injection pumps on them,
I would also try a vernier Adjust cable or you could install a belt driven governor like a Barber Coleman or a Woodward that would keep it constant regardless of load.
Sorry for all of the questions.
Jim
Are the saws run with a hydraulic motor or is a regular gas chainsaw?
What loads the logs into the processor, is there some hopper or does it require a person to keep it full?
Is the engine is only going to drive a hydraulic pump, are you going to keep a flywheel or just a flex plate?
What will sense the positions of the log and actuate the saws and rams, any electronics or is that the operators job..
Are there plans for these or are you designing your own?
All of the Cummins powered stationary equipment I have worked on all have Lucas CAV injection pumps on them,
I would also try a vernier Adjust cable or you could install a belt driven governor like a Barber Coleman or a Woodward that would keep it constant regardless of load.
Sorry for all of the questions.
Jim
#18
oliver, for non intercooled engines:first check your electronic control module serial number (thats the black box on the cowl).early modules below serial number 0080000a preheat -9c(15f),and later modules preheat 15c(59f).there should be no voltage at the ksb valve if the intake manifold temperature is less than 15c(59f).the ksb valve should have voltage at the valve terminal if the intake manifold has heated to 15c(59f) or above. so yes,after warm up voltage all the time.keep in mind the ksb valve activation voltage is independant of the intake manifold heater control system.
#19
Hydraulic motor. Some mfg's use a hydraulic PUMP, and run it as a motor. They get fast RPM's for cheap money but they're not designed for this and as a result, don't get the service life.
Here's another with a circular slasher saw instead of a chainsaw.
Not that I know of. I'm taking the best ideas of 3 or 4 manufacturers and combining them into one machine. One of my major peeves with all the manufactured wood processors is that they will only process logs, and only those that are 20 to 22 inches in diameter. If they're short logs, like 24" long chunks, the machines won't process them. There's too much space between the live deck strands and they'd just fall thru. Mine will be able to operate like a conventional wood splitter without using the live deck or in-feed trough. It may be difficult to envision what I'm talking about, but I'll post pics as I go along. I have a couple of tree company's that bring me 'chunks' that are anywhere from 12 to 30 inches long, and I want to be able to utilize them without having a separate woodsplitter to split them.
Glad you're asking. I LIKE explaining my madness to anyone that'll listen!
#20
oliver, for non intercooled engines:first check your electronic control module serial number (thats the black box on the cowl).early modules below serial number 0080000a preheat -9c(15f),and later modules preheat 15c(59f).there should be no voltage at the ksb valve if the intake manifold temperature is less than 15c(59f).the ksb valve should have voltage at the valve terminal if the intake manifold has heated to 15c(59f) or above. so yes,after warm up voltage all the time.keep in mind the ksb valve activation voltage is independant of the intake manifold heater control system.
#21
You can probably safely wire it to the FSO and let it do it's thing. In other words, when you turn on the ignition it gets power. If there's an intake manifold temp switch in the original, it wouldn't hurt to wire that in series with the KSB
You don't need a PCM for anything. About the only thing it would do is field the alternator, and you can do that with a voltage regulator. The TPS and CPS are not needed.
#22
Not completely sure, but I don't think 90 non-ic motors have an ecm, I am sure that my 90 doesn't...Mark
#23
non intercooled (1989 1990) engines have an ecm.it is located on the engine side of the cowl towards the drivers fender from the steering column. it is a black box about twice the size of a pack of cigarettes.all this ecm does is control the ksb and the grid heaters.chaikwa,if you want to use an ecm either one will work,early or later style.but,you don't need an ecm.just run a hot wire from the ignition to the ksb.voltage all the time the engine is running (just what j martin said).to confuse you more you can delete the ksb all together.anybody familar with these pumps can delete it right on the engine without taking the pump off.all the ksb really does is keep the engine from smoking a little white smoke when you first start up.and this keeps our friends the air pollution people happy.
#24
non intercooled (1989 1990) engines have an ecm.it is located on the engine side of the cowl towards the drivers fender from the steering column. it is a black box about twice the size of a pack of cigarettes.all this ecm does is control the ksb and the grid heaters.chaikwa,if you want to use an ecm either one will work,early or later style.but,you don't need an ecm.just run a hot wire from the ignition to the ksb.voltage all the time the engine is running (just what j martin said).to confuse you more you can delete the ksb all together.anybody familar with these pumps can delete it right on the engine without taking the pump off.all the ksb really does is keep the engine from smoking a little white smoke when you first start up.and this keeps our friends the air pollution people happy.
#26
Thanks man, I have owned my truck for more than 12 years and I have never even noticed that box. I have even changed my booster twice, probably had my hand on it. I think I have pre-alzheimers disease......Mark
#30
I've been told my multiple sources that wood dries quicker and better if it's piled instead of stacked. We'll see, when it comes off the conveyor it will be piled. And remained piled until I use it!
My splitting cylinder is 6" in diameter and will have about 3000psi feeding it. It *SHOULD* split a car if I can fit it in there!
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3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
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09-10-2010 10:14 PM