1990 D250 to W250
Thrashing is never afraid of doing some manual labor to get it right.
Kinda like pushing the motor on the engine stand UP his driveway when he installed the 12V in his crew cab.

Glad to see you are back to working on the truck Mark.
I use the same style motorcycle jack / lift to install transmissions as well.
That is one way to get the bolt hole spacing right the first time.
Thrashing is never afraid of doing some manual labor to get it right.
Kinda like pushing the motor on the engine stand UP his driveway when he installed the 12V in his crew cab.
Glad to see you are back to working on the truck Mark.
I use the same style motorcycle jack / lift to install transmissions as well.
Thrashing is never afraid of doing some manual labor to get it right.
Kinda like pushing the motor on the engine stand UP his driveway when he installed the 12V in his crew cab.

Glad to see you are back to working on the truck Mark.
I use the same style motorcycle jack / lift to install transmissions as well.

Yeah One of the board members is going to send me one. Thanks Tim
(MrFusion)
odd that they come in the kits but finding just the bushing is next to impossible. Vick at Capitol Clutch can't find one at any of his suppliers.
Well I guessing MrFusion's signature yellow bushing is better than no bushing.
I just hope, for your sake, that the paint isn't too thick
Seriously, though I am glad something little like that isn't going to hold up progress.

I just hope, for your sake, that the paint isn't too thick
Seriously, though I am glad something little like that isn't going to hold up progress.
I put a new bushing in my flywheel before popping the tranny back in. I just ordered one for a 2nd Gen NV4500 set-up...fit perfectly with no issues.
Are you getting one specific for a Getrag, or NV4500? Or are they same?
Are you getting one specific for a Getrag, or NV4500? Or are they same?
I thought a standard oilite bushing from McMaster car would work but the dodge appears to be .002" bigger OD.
Today I jacked and blocked the cab up and got the holes drilled for the trans crossmember braces.
That sure sounds a lot easier than it was. Locating the holes was the toughest part. I drilled the holes in the top of the brace out to 1/2" and pressed a 1/4"ID 1/2" set collar. The idea is to use a short 1/4" spot(center) drill in a 3/8" air angle drill motor to locate the holes. I then took the brace off and drilled the holes through with a 1/8" drill followed by a shortened 3/8" then a shortened 1/2"
That sure sounds a lot easier than it was. Locating the holes was the toughest part. I drilled the holes in the top of the brace out to 1/2" and pressed a 1/4"ID 1/2" set collar. The idea is to use a short 1/4" spot(center) drill in a 3/8" air angle drill motor to locate the holes. I then took the brace off and drilled the holes through with a 1/8" drill followed by a shortened 3/8" then a shortened 1/2"
Today I jacked and blocked the cab up and got the holes drilled for the trans crossmember braces.
That sure sounds a lot easier than it was. Locating the holes was the toughest part. I drilled the holes in the top of the brace out to 1/2" and pressed a 1/4"ID 1/2" set collar. The idea is to use a short 1/4" spot(center) drill in a 3/8" air angle drill motor to locate the holes. I then took the brace off and drilled the holes through with a 1/8" drill followed by a shortened 3/8" then a shortened 1/2"
That sure sounds a lot easier than it was. Locating the holes was the toughest part. I drilled the holes in the top of the brace out to 1/2" and pressed a 1/4"ID 1/2" set collar. The idea is to use a short 1/4" spot(center) drill in a 3/8" air angle drill motor to locate the holes. I then took the brace off and drilled the holes through with a 1/8" drill followed by a shortened 3/8" then a shortened 1/2"
it makes a huge difference not having to lay on the ground and holding stuff over your head Not to mention drilling over head
I had to do it all the hard way.....








