I have had it on and off several times. but if there will be a problem it will show up after it is painted.

 

Mounted up and works. That is if the switches are good
It took just a small bit of tuning to get it to work right. on to bigger and better things

 

Looks good.

 

Thanks Oliver. It should eliminate the breaking problem I hope.

 

Yeah, just don't bump it with your knee.

 

Yeah that railroad iron from Cuba is pretty solid.

 

Well the rain stopped and I got my transmission out. And got the cab floor mostly cleaned up. I have some wire wheeling around where I welded the floor in. Not too bad.
I also need to replace the rear main seal. I figured on that though.
After I get the floor cleaned treated and painted I will get to locating the transmission crossmember.

 

I got the bottom of the floor(trans hump cleaned and treated. I also got a coat of primer on it. Today I will put the seam sealer on. and???

I am having a hard time finding a bronze pilot bushing. I don.t like the looks of the roller bearing one.

 

I got the seam sealer spread and put a new main seal in. The next thing is going be hoisting the transmission and transfer case in to drill the holes for the cross-member.
This thing was really clean when I opened it up. I probably spent five minutes wiping it with a rag.
Asyou can see the seam sealer gravity works.

 

That looks like you spread on icing.... Sure nice and clean under there.

 

I was like spreading icing with stalagmites. I don't think I have ever seen one that was so easy to clean up. Even though the hump was already bare metal. All I did on the rest was wipe it off a couple times with a rag soaked with mineral spirits.

 

I have one that came with my AA NV4500 conversion kit. My South Bend clutch came with a full size ball bearing so I put the bushing in the parts box. If you think it will fit I'll send it to you.

 

I bet it is.

 

I had some fun today. I located and drilled the transmission crossmember. I spent some time measuring my dads two trucks. and determined that the rear most hole was .250" to the rear of the factory reference hole. under the cab. After a bit of searching I found a piece of 1" round bar stock with the end turned down that fit perfectly into the hole. all I had to do was use a square to draw a line down the frame and mark the crossmember. I lined the marks up and centered the crossmember side to side. then devised as many ways I could to prove I was in the right spot. transfer punched and drilled.

The piece of tubing in the second picture is to spread the frame where it bowed in a little.

I have a couple holes to weld up then I can tackle the braces.

 

Nice that you had reference trucks to get your measurements from.

When I did mine in the crewcab I waited until I had the tranny bolted up and in, then installed the cross member to the tranny and then drilled my holes.