How does that allow you to shift from the front axle to the rear and vise versa? I can understand rear or both but not just the front?

 

The shift rail on the left side of the transfer case(looking it like it sits in the truck) controls the rear driveshaft the one on the right the front. In 2WD high the left stick is back and the right stick is in neutral. In front only the right hand stick in in gear and the left hand stick is in neutral.


There are two rods that go between the shift rails that need to be removed to take full advantage of the twin stick set up. There is an article floating around the net on how to do it without disassembling the case
The rods are only necessary for the single stick to work.
Hope this helps.


some pattern pics. sadly the best one is hard to see.

 

Thanks for the reminder Mark....I had forget about the interlock pins inside the transfer case. Not sure how you would get those out without pulling apart the TC. They were a pain to get out, and in when I rebuilt my TC.

I will probably mock everything up so that when I pull my TC to re-seal it again!! Yup leaks like a sieve, since I decided to not use any silicone on the gasket surfaces during rebuild and assembly.... Once it's mostly apart for the re-seal I will address the shift rod interlock pins.

 

Think this one sums it up the best....

 

that is a good one. This is how my hybrid Dana 18/20 shifts. In my Jeep.

 

That sucks. but then again it is a good excuse to do the twin sticks the right way.

 

OK thanks, I assumed the twins worked like on my '51 Power Wagon but only kinda. That's interesting, and handy.

 

Make sure you just use the paper gaskets. The paper aids in the alignment of the transfer case. Don't put anything on the paper.. as if a leak develops the paper will expand and seal it (that's why the paper is always over sized when you buy it). I put never seize on my paper gaskets and ruined every single one. You can buy the kits from northwestfab or quad 4x4.

 

That is the way my Dana 18 in my 42 ****** MB shifted. One stick high/ low the other 2WD/4WD .

 

That is exactly what I had read...and did. My transfer case leaks like a sieve now from every one of those paper gasket mounting points.

So I'm going back to the tried and true...thin smear of RTV on each matting surface...with the paper gasket between. I have never had an issue when assembling things this way.

 

I learned a long time ago to always use silicone on transfer cases.

 

I went and did it today I cut out the hole for my transfer case shifters.
For the straight cuts I used a cut off wheel in a die grinder. For the radius cuts I used a jig saw. It worked out pretty good as I clamped the tunnel to the bench really tight and ran the jig saw as fast as it would go. It helped that I left some metal for finish sanding and shaping. That I cleaned up with a 2" Drum sander on the die grinder.

First picture is one of the methods I used to shape the transfer case hole stiffener the rest are test fitting and the finished product (it least for today)


WoW talk about crappy pictures

 

Today I decided to see how much damage I could do to my floor.
I thought about this for some time. I could imagine myself fighting the two panels while trying to fit and trim them. Sort of like an old Chevy Chase movie.

The answer I came up with was to cot the floor 1/2" short on each side and put a flange in it. Seems like a good idea. The new tunnel will sit on the flange and the top will be reasonably close to the top of the floor. The only problem my flange tool will only work on fairly flat panels. ok so I flanged the parts that would work and will but weld the places that won't.
so here is what I came up with.
The first and second pictures are an attempt to show the flange that the tool makes.


The third picture is the tool, one side presses the flange and the other punches a hole to plug weld the "patch panel" to the flange.


The last picture is my new window with the sides flanged. the flange extends from the edge to the black line.

 

Very nice engineering you got there charlie brown. By putting that flange on there, you're adding strength, or rigidity, correct ? Are you welding that sucker in, or riveting or epoxying ?

 

Thank you sir.
That is one of the benefits. I'm going to do some plug welds and weld the outside edges. it should be stronger than the stock floor around it