1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

1990 D250 to W250

Old Jul 29, 2014 | 07:11 AM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by MrFusion
Isn't that kinda like having your own curing oven?! Put one of those Harbor Freight green houses over it and I bet it'll cure in a jiffy.

Seriously tho: It really looks good!
Thanks Tim, How is yours going?
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 07:13 AM
  #212  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by NJTman
Yeah..... the alternative.....
Kinda makes ya wonder how it made it there it the first place.
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Old Jul 30, 2014 | 12:25 AM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by mknittle
Thanks Tim, How is yours going?
Really slow right now. Going to get the trans tunnel put on and the twin stick in. Then I'll tackle the rear brakes. Next step to getting it on the road.
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Old Jul 30, 2014 | 07:33 AM
  #214  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by MrFusion
Really slow right now. Going to get the trans tunnel put on and the twin stick in. Then I'll tackle the rear brakes. Next step to getting it on the road.
Yeah mine has been slower than I would like too. I guess it would go faster if I didn't strip and repaint all the parts I take off.




Are you going to put the one ton brake shoes on yours?
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Old Jul 30, 2014 | 03:15 PM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by mknittle
Yeah mine has been slower than I would like too. I guess it would go faster if I didn't strip and repaint all the parts I take off.




Are you going to put the one ton brake shoes on yours?
Better to take the extra time now...then having to redo it all again in a year or two.

The price difference between the stock drum brake cylinders, and shoes, and the HD one ton stuff is so negligible, that it's almost criminal not to upgrade.
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Old Jul 30, 2014 | 04:52 PM
  #216  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by thrashingcows
Better to take the extra time now...then having to redo it all again in a year or two.

The price difference between the stock drum brake cylinders, and shoes, and the HD one ton stuff is so negligible, that it's almost criminal not to upgrade.
Yeah it is worth the extra time spent. my wife commented on the last pictures I posted. She said "all the parts you work on look like new"


And the brakes I am going to have to take mine apart. the adjusters are in wrong and I also can't see fooling with the old questionable wheel cylinders.
I learned a long time ago replace them and be done with it. And the rest like you said. I am chucking the RWAL and swapping the rubber hoses for braided stainless.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 12:04 AM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by mknittle
Yeah mine has been slower than I would like too. I guess it would go faster if I didn't strip and repaint all the parts I take off.




Are you going to put the one ton brake shoes on yours?
One of the rear wheel cylinders blew out and is puking fluid all over the place. My current plan is to pull the drums and see what needs to be replaced. I plan to put GM one ton wheel cylinders and 3" wide shoes on it. Hopefully I can get the drums turned for the 3" shoes. I thought about converting to disk brakes but I'm not too enthusiastic about driveline parking brakes or Eldorado calipers. I have most of the parts to convert it to Hydro-boost so rear disk is more of a convenience in regards to maintenance.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 07:56 AM
  #218  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by MrFusion
One of the rear wheel cylinders blew out and is puking fluid all over the place. My current plan is to pull the drums and see what needs to be replaced. I plan to put GM one ton wheel cylinders and 3" wide shoes on it. Hopefully I can get the drums turned for the 3" shoes. I thought about converting to disk brakes but I'm not too enthusiastic about driveline parking brakes or Eldorado calipers. I have most of the parts to convert it to Hydro-boost so rear disk is more of a convenience in regards to maintenance.
I did the hydro boost on my jeep. it works great.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 10:58 AM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by MrFusion
One of the rear wheel cylinders blew out and is puking fluid all over the place. My current plan is to pull the drums and see what needs to be replaced. I plan to put GM one ton wheel cylinders and 3" wide shoes on it. Hopefully I can get the drums turned for the 3" shoes. I thought about converting to disk brakes but I'm not too enthusiastic about driveline parking brakes or Eldorado calipers. I have most of the parts to convert it to Hydro-boost so rear disk is more of a convenience in regards to maintenance.
If a rear disc conversion has even crossed your mind, I recommend doing it!

Unless of course you enjoy adjusting your drums bi-weekly. Mine tighten most of the time on their own, but sometimes they loosen up too.

All together the just SUCK!


Just my .02
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 03:53 PM
  #220  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by MARF75
If a rear disc conversion has even crossed your mind, I recommend doing it!

Unless of course you enjoy adjusting your drums bi-weekly. Mine tighten most of the time on their own, but sometimes they loosen up too.

All together the just SUCK!


Just my .02
Did you install a new brake adjuster kit?
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 04:08 PM
  #221  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Here lies the problem, ...........................and the fix,female Inverted flare to male AN. for a braided stainless brake hose. Kinda hard to see this end has an aluminum cap to keep the crap out
Attached Thumbnails 1990 D250 to W250-100_5062.jpg   1990 D250 to W250-100_5069.jpg  
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 11:59 PM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by mknittle
Here lies the problem, ...........................and the fix,female Inverted flare to male AN. for a braided stainless brake hose. Kinda hard to see this end has an aluminum cap to keep the crap out
I was going to eliminate the RWAL from mine too but I think someone beat me to it! I traced the brake line from the MC to the rear axle and can't find anything that isn't just brake line.
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 12:03 AM
  #223  
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Originally Posted by MARF75
If a rear disc conversion has even crossed your mind, I recommend doing it!

Unless of course you enjoy adjusting your drums bi-weekly. Mine tighten most of the time on their own, but sometimes they loosen up too.

All together the just SUCK!


Just my .02
Ugh...yeah I know. I was constantly messing with them on my '95 Cummins truck. It had a 47rh and I didn't use the parking brake much. That might have been part of the problem. Every week or so I would floor it in reverse and slam the brakes so they would "self adjust". Mostly I crawled under it with brake tools and did it the old fashioned way.
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 07:49 AM
  #224  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by MrFusion
I was going to eliminate the RWAL from mine too but I think someone beat me to it! I traced the brake line from the MC to the rear axle and can't find anything that isn't just brake line.
that makes it easy I am glad to see the thing go.
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 09:01 AM
  #225  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Originally Posted by MrFusion
Ugh...yeah I know. I was constantly messing with them on my '95 Cummins truck. It had a 47rh and I didn't use the parking brake much. That might have been part of the problem. Every week or so I would floor it in reverse and slam the brakes so they would "self adjust". Mostly I crawled under it with brake tools and did it the old fashioned way.
I haven't had any problems with the adjusters on mine. Could be due to the dryer climate here.
If I could afford to do the disk swap I would. I guess that means that collecting and fabrication will be way it will roll. Nothing new there.
Like I need more stuff to do right now anyway.
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