Infidel has mentioned bypass filters recently and I am wondering what your specific experiences with them are. If anyone has one installed I would like to know the brand and your history with it. I am not interested in the "dual remote" type which relocates the existing filter and adds a bypass filter.

Also, if anyone has filtration expertise, why would Oilguard (wound media) and Motor Guard (toilet paper) badmouth each other's method? If it's just marketing noise, who should I believe?

Thirdly, where would I attach the supply and return hoses? My filter spin-on casting has an unused/plugged tap on the top, in addition to the turbo oil supply tap. Is this suitable? Motor Guard has a CTD "sandwich adapter" but it would make changing the primary oil filter more difficult. I don't want to return the oil to my oil pan drain plug, as Oilguard suggests, because my 2X4 is too low to the road. Can I return oil to a rocker cover?

 

The TP filters have been used for many years with good results, I think Haulin in Dixie uses one on his truck. Thermostat failures and head gasket issues have killed his engines, not lubrication problems.

The extra tap on the filter mount is where most people tap in. You can run the return to any rocker cover or to the oil fill tube, whatever is easier.

Tryin' to make the Cummins last forever, eh?

edit: I've heard of people teeing the return into the turbo drain line as well.

 

The 1/4 npt plug on top of the filter mount is also a good place to put a needle valve and tube for easy oil sample draws, just tee it in along with bypass line..

 

Oilguards I've installed have drawn their supply from the 1/8" port of top of the filter housing, return to a port drilled and tapped in the side of the oil fill spout. With the return in this location it's easy to check the flow though the filter with the engine running. Best place to mount the filter itself is on a bracket welded to the pass side battery hold down. The Oilguards also have an extra port in the filter housing to draw a sample.

Don't know why a guy couldn't make his own bypass system for much cheaper with a remote filter mount from these guys http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Ca...tml#supermount or JC Whitney and the addition of a few fittings, hose and a low micron spin on filter. Bet you could come in for way less than $100.

 

That's a good idea, then you're not changing the bypass more often than necessary. The TP filters seem to be a nasty mess to deal with, that seems like a chore I'd want to do as seldom as possible.

 

Infidel, I agree, looked into it a little bit. The problems I had was finding out what the thread patterns are on a bypass filter elements (screw on type). Who even carries a screw on type element? I have looked at the remote filter from perma-cool. They give the thread pattern, but like I said, trouble trying to play the matching game with the filter. I think the bypass filter mnufactures do this so it's more difficult to do exctly what we are talking about.

The other problem (which I think is resolved) is what size oriface do you use? I think 1/16" is the magic number.

Otherwise, it's just some plumbing. Sure would be nice to figure this one out. Sure would be nice to have a simple spin on remote bypass filter that could tuck up out of the way, have easy access for changing the filter, a reasonable price,
and replacement filters that are reasonably priced as well. Kevin

 

Kevin, there are only a few different thread/o-ring patterns used for screw on filters, shouldn't be too hard to match up to a low micron filter. Many hydraulic filters are low micron, or just use an Amsoil filter, they're 4 microns. All of the spin on low micron filters I've dealt with are expensive, $25+.
The Oilguard filters really aren't much different than toilet paper, they look like a roll of string.

Here's a couple other sources for several different bypass setups http://www.bypassfilter.com/MotorGuardFilters.htm

http://www.wefilterit.com/products.htm

 

It's not that bad. When installing the new "element", you have to kinda twist and push it in. When it's time to remove it, with oil on/in it, it drops right out of the canister into the trash. Still cleaner than replacing the element filter on a Deere 4020 tractor.

I run a Frantz by-pass.

 

The ultimate by-pass filter thread-

http://turbodieselregister.com/forum...ad.php?t=98863

 

I made my own bypass system for my PSD and it was not easy to find the proper micron rating filters. I know there are std thread and o-ring sizes but they are specific to the filters designed use. An example would be a engine oil filter will have a different thread std compared to a hydraulic filter thread std. Then there are the "bastard" brands like Amsoil who use their own o-ring and thread size so you must use their filter bases and filters excursively. (read monopoly) If I remember correctly the smallest micron rating for a std spin on engine oil filter I found was 7 micron absolute. Amsoil are 3 micron I believe. Hydraulic filters are not the same thread or o-ring sizes as engine oil filters, so they need a specific base and the filters are not as readily available. But hydraulic filters will come down to 3 micron absolute. And yes all these filters are going to run you $25+. The orifice I ran was a .075 on the return line. I used a dual filter base but if I were to do it again I would use a single.