I decided I would renew my confidence of how cold the truck would start on its own, last year it did it at 15 below, two days ago it was 10 below, it was really hard to start, I didn't think it would but after about 7 grid cycles and short crank sessions it barely took off. Today it was 15 below and it wouldn't go. I took Ma's truck to school and when I got home it was still below zero, and I cracked injectors and got fuel so it isn't gelled up. I wore my batteries out trying to get it going, but no go. I checked the grids and they are burning nice and hot (don't touch them after about 10 seconds!). The only thing that I can think of is last year I was at about 13-14 degrees timing, and this year I am at about 16.5* and it doesn't really like it. I thought that a little more timing was supposed to help cold weather starting? Any info on something that I may have overlooked, please tell! Right now it is plugged in and has the battery charger on so it better be ready to go tomorrow!!!

 

more timing hurts starting...

should be good to go w/ it plugged in... push comes to shove, a quick squirt of ether should get things crackin'

 

Id say just leave it plugged in. When it gets that cold, you have to remember compression is the only thing firing them off besides just a little warm air/fuel. Also, give it a little pedal while your trying to start it. It usually helps mine. When you gonna get pics of the stacks up?

Eric

 

no ether unless you want to blow up your heater grid. i always heard timing makes starting easier

 

have you ever used ether on a Cummins? I have... no damage... just engage your brain before use.

Forrest

 

Ether will help IF (and that is the key word here) you don't allow the grid heaters to get warm. Matt, could it be the starter is slightly more worn and pulling a little more power? Also, could it be the oil is not the same as you had in it last year? (Just thinking out loud here) You don't think the "enhancements" have anything to do with it do you? Last year mine would not start when the temp was -17* without being plugged in. By the way, when I got up this morning the temp was -25.8* at 0700. That sucks. The only good thing is the forcast is for 29* on Sunday.
Merry Christmas
Tom

 

More timing makes for harder starts.
Also marginal batteries are effected more by the cold than fresh ones.
Unless you are trying to prove something plug it in. Even though they will start when it's below zero it's definitely harder on the engine.

 

What oil are you running?

If you let the heater grids go twice, then crank with light pressure on the pedal, it should fire. Plug it in if possible, running these cold starts unasisted are damaging your electrical system, and increase wear on the engine. Have you ever tried shaking a bottle of oil at 10 below?

 

I just wanted to make sure how could it could start this winter, because if/when I take it up to our cabin I won't be able to plug in. I guess I know my limitations now. I am, however, going to do the starter contacts just to make sure because the starter sounds weak. Batteries are new Optima Red Tops so I'm set in that department. I am going to run some thinner oil in it soon, though. I guess timing is the culprit. Thanks for the ideas.

Merry Christmas

 

Matt, Chances are the oil is what is causing your problem. Thinner oil will make all the differance in the world. You might even think about synthetics.
Tom

 

Matt;
Did you have the GSK and #10 plate least year? They really screw up cold weather starts as much as thick oil and advanced timing.

as cumminsdriver635 stated "... give it a little pedal while your trying to start it. ..."

I can start mine on a single battery in 0° temps. Doesn't like it, but will go. I lost the battery tie cable from corrosion. Fixing it this weekend if it warms up. Get it fixed and I can run my Espar again.

If you go to a winter cabin and cannot plug in the truck I would seriously think about an Epsar or Webasto.

edit
I like 5W-40 Delvac or 5W-30 Amsoil in the winter.

 

First time any one has said anything about the #10 and GSK making for tougher starts.

That statement caught my interest. Can you explain this to me? Of course my truck stays outside, and am about to do the gsk. Don't need anything else (besides the -5 temps) making this thing tougher to start.

I plug in at night, but no luck during the day while at work. I think the 5w-40 makes alot of sense. I checked out a quart of 15-40 that stays in my truck bed tool box for top off and such. It is in a clear bottle. Man, at -5, that stuff is like goo. Looked just like the old STP additive. When turned upside down, the bubble in the bottle took like a 10 count to go to the top. Started the truck and that vacuum pump howled and yelled at me for a little while.

Thanks for the info, Kevin

 

After governor springs I have to give the foot pedal a good nudge to get it to start, year around. Part of that is gsk and the other is the low stall converter. I slightly lowered my idle to soften the shift from neutral and prevent the rear wheels from pushing me through an icy intersection.
After starting, the infamous flutter or surge is enough to kill a cold engine.
jjw-nd has noticed some of the same issues on his 96 stick.

That howl is power steering pump, too.
good thread in 2nd gen forum https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=56166

-John

 

Fueling Around: Loosen you governor springs a click or 2. Mine was a lot harder to start after the GSK. Loosened the springs 2 clicks, and shes back to normal

Eric

 

Tried tighter and tried looser. Tighter made it better for startup, but couldn't control the idle speed and the throttle action was not linear.
Looser increased the flutter.
Called Piers and he agreed from my description the tension was optimal.

Maybe I should add the small spring and go to 4k?

-John