I have a 94 truck with a bad automatic. I am investigating changing it to a 5 speed. Here are my questions;
1. Do I need any computer changes or can I just eliminate it since all it does is control the trans.
2. Will the 4wd transfer case on the auto bolt to a 5 speed set up for 4wd?
3. Is the clutch pedal and linkage all mechanical or is it set up with a slave cyl.
4. Is a 6 speed worth looking into?
5. will the drive shafts fit without modifications?

 

The only thing that i can answer is that it is a hydraulic setup, not a manual. I would like to know about the 6 spd though, i have a 5 and have thought about swithching it around.
Ryan

 

The slave cylinder for a 5spd works on a 6spd. The system is all hydraulic. Shouldnt have to mess witht he computer just eliminate thecheck engine light.

 

Add the clutch pedal and related parts, You have to change the brake pedal.You may also have to cut a hole in the floor for the shift lever, I had to on a 1st gen.As for the bcm it shouldn't need any changes. I would look for a 6 speed if you are going to do that much work.

 

Ok guys, how about switching from a 5 spd to a 6 spd, whats involved?
Ryan

 

6" off the rear driveline, 6"s added to the front, redrill yourflywheel to take the larger 6spd clutch SBC offers this service. The clutch has a bigger dampener and bigger input 1 3/8 over a 5spd 1 1/4. Youll need a deep cross member or some 5spd cross members will work, dont know which just have heard that some work and some are too shallow. lengthen the 4x4 linkage and your are good to go.

 

1 the computor will I believe need to be changed to make the cruse control work
2 I was told the transfer case will work but you will have to change the input shaft in the transfer case
3 Just remove the rod and install the pedals, dont remove the hardware just install the pedals in the current location.
4 Personal choice, much heaver duty, better ratios,
The six speed is great for towing. Do a search on auto to standard . There is a great store of info, part numbers, telephone numbers ect. This has done many times. good luck JimK

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ight=5spd+swap

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ight=5spd+swap

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ight=5spd+swap

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ight=5spd+swap

Should answer some q's...

 

98 and newer have the deeper cross member needed for 6-spd conversions. Strength really is a toss up between the 5 and 6-spds. When the 6-spds break, they fail catastrophically. 5-spds usually fail in a simple fashion, and much cheaper to fix. Unless you're towing, the 5-spd's ratios are good enough. But I do love my G56.

Auto to 5-spd, rear driveshaft will need to be lengthened, and shortened on the front.

 

Holy thread dig Batman!

I think we have a new record for oldest thread pulled up!

 

Ha, didn't even look at the date when I posted.

 

Ho boy! That's hilarious! I often browse through the "new posts", but I don't know how in the world I came up with this one!

 

That is an old pull!

 

I found the information useful and interesting. It is something I have been thinking about just encase my auto decides to go south on me. I believe most if not all the info on this thread is accurate and most likely TIME proven? I appreciate you digging it up for me.

 

Keep in mind, there's 2 versions of 2nd gen pedals and hydro master.
1994-1997 and 1998-2002.

The early version locates the hydro master into the pedal support directly, the later version has a bolt in bracket that the master clocks into.
Correspondingly, the pedal pushrod is also a different length.

Also keep in mind, if you use the late set-up on the early truck, there will be some cutting and drilling, or R&R necessary to make it work.

Mark.