I just got a 32' goosneck. Bringing it home (empty) the brakes seem to work fine. Load it up to go on another trip, the brakes don't seem to be working as well. I check the wiring at the 7 prong plug on the back of the truck, and I get 0 volts with no controller plugged in. With the controller plugged in, I got 12 volts +/-. I think bad controller. New controller purchased at Northern Tool (closest available place to get one and open on a Sunday 250 miles from home) Plug it in, and get 1.6 volts at the plug with no brakes applied. Hit the brakes with the controller all the way up and get 13 volts.

Am I correct in assuming I should have no volts with no brakes applied, and the voltage should increase when brakes are applied, and the voltage is in relation to how high the power setting on the controller is set to?

Also, I have back up lights wired on my 18' car hauler. They work when hooked up to my 2000 Durango, but not to my 2006 Ram. I'm guessing truck wiring issues on this one. Anyone experience similar problems like these with factory trailer wiring?

 

which brake controller do you have?

 

you should have some voltage (very low) with the controller plugged in as that is how it knows if there is a trailer connected or not... when it completes the circuit.

 

I had a Drawtight in there at first.
The replacement (cheapo) once is a Reliant.
I am going to get a Prodigy.

All those voltage tests were with no trailer attached. Just the stock wiring and (at times noted) the brake cotrollers plugged into the factory harness under the dash.

 

yup, my voyager and other units that i have tested all put out a very small constant voltage to the trailer brake wire at the plug. like i said, when you hook a trailer up to it it completes the circuit and thats when the controller says "there is a trailer hooked up, power on". The small constant voltage is normal even with no trailer connected.

 

OK - thanks!
Moving on to trailer wiring and trailer brakes next.

 

couldnt help ya with that one. I dont have any trailers with back up lights, but it does sound like a truck wiring issue.

 

Be careful trying to read the brake controller voltage...You will not be able to read 'pure' dc. The controllers' output is pulsed. The more brake applied, the higher frequency (duty cycle) applied to the trailer brakes.

I like my prodigy. It's one of the smarter controllers: It will tell you if there is a connection, the connection is lost, a short, and how much voltage (despite what I just said) is applied to the brakes. Makes for EASY troubleshooting brake problems. It's also the easiest to setup...really only have to adjust the gain. No pendulum, or other crap. If you want, you can adjust the 'boost'...their term fro how soon or hard the trailer brakes get applied.

In general, with no brakes (vehicle at a stop), you should see near 0 volts. But the controller may have a low amplitude pulse to check for continuity, so this may skew your reading.

Let us know how you are progressing.

Tony