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What did you do to your Gen 1 today?

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Old 04-27-2018, 01:11 PM
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It's possible the converter clutch is dragging because a seal is leaking in it.
Old 04-27-2018, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Angry Johnny
It's possible the converter clutch is dragging because a seal is leaking in it.
I figured it would be something expensive. Guess I’ll just drive it until it stops and then 5 speed swap it.
Old 04-27-2018, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stGEN'93

I figured it would be something expensive. Guess I’ll just drive it until it stops and then 5 speed swap it.
Did the PO say why he swapped the Getrag for an auto? IMHO, doesn't seem logical to swap a relatively simple transmission for something more complicated and more likely to have problems...Mark
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Old 04-27-2018, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by maybe368
Did the PO say why he swapped the Getrag for an auto? IMHO, doesn't seem logical to swap a relatively simple transmission for something more complicated and more likely to have problems...Mark
He had knee problems develope that made it hard for him to push the clutch in. I agree it would have been preferable for me to have had the Getrag. If I ever find a Getrag or an Nv4500 for a good enough price I’ll probably buy it and swap it back into the truck. Then I’ll sell this transmission as a core even though it only has about 35,000 miles on it.
Old 04-27-2018, 03:13 PM
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If you go here:

All of Craigslist

and search getrag g360 a core pops up for 200 dollars. I don't know where it is, but core charges at rebuiders are 500, seems like a good deal...Mark
Old 04-27-2018, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by maybe368
If you go here:

All of Craigslist

and search getrag g360 a core pops up for 200 dollars. I don't know where it is, but core charges at rebuiders are 500, seems like a good deal...Mark
Than you for that Mark. I will have to look at that. I would guess I could probably get at least that for my 47rh. I would then just have to change adapter plates and starters too. I guess a new clutch and a rebuild too, but maybe it would be a lot better that way. I sure liked the second gen 5 speed I drove the other day. I just hope I can get this truck to where I am confident taking it to college. Otherwise I will have to sell it and get something else.

speaking of which, today when I got home from school and parked the truck the idle didn't recover like it normally does. It got a little better, but it was still low after I put it in park. I let it run for a minute and it started to kind of clear up, but never completely recovered. I went and drove it a little more around the neighborhood and it ran as good as ever, but the idle just doesn't sound quite right. Do you think that maybe this injection pump is just getting too hot? Maybe I need to just bite the bullet right away on a HVLP lift pump. Also, the truck starts right up when cold, but after it has been ran for a while and then is shut off for just a few minutes, it cranks for a couple seconds before it comes to life. I really like this truck, but it is starting to make me wonder if it is worth it. Maybe I need to just try and get out of it what I bought it for, which would still be a loss to me from the money I have put into it since, and get something that isn't so much a project. I can work on this truck just fine right now, but when I'm in college I won't be able to spend as much time working on it.
Old 04-27-2018, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stGEN'93
Than you for that Mark. I will have to look at that. I would guess I could probably get at least that for my 47rh. I would then just have to change adapter plates and starters too. I guess a new clutch and a rebuild too, but maybe it would be a lot better that way. I sure liked the second gen 5 speed I drove the other day. I just hope I can get this truck to where I am confident taking it to college. Otherwise I will have to sell it and get something else.

speaking of which, today when I got home from school and parked the truck the idle didn't recover like it normally does. It got a little better, but it was still low after I put it in park. I let it run for a minute and it started to kind of clear up, but never completely recovered. I went and drove it a little more around the neighborhood and it ran as good as ever, but the idle just doesn't sound quite right. Do you think that maybe this injection pump is just getting too hot? Maybe I need to just bite the bullet right away on a HVLP lift pump. Also, the truck starts right up when cold, but after it has been ran for a while and then is shut off for just a few minutes, it cranks for a couple seconds before it comes to life. I really like this truck, but it is starting to make me wonder if it is worth it. Maybe I need to just try and get out of it what I bought it for, which would still be a loss to me from the money I have put into it since, and get something that isn't so much a project. I can work on this truck just fine right now, but when I'm in college I won't be able to spend as much time working on it.
Make sure that the lift pump is good and that the fuel filter is not clogged. If you can put a fuel pressure gauge on it, it may show you problem...Mark
Old 04-27-2018, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by maybe368
Make sure that the lift pump is good and that the fuel filter is not clogged. If you can put a fuel pressure gauge on it, it may show you problem...Mark
I guess I need to get a cheap fuel pressure gauge to just put under the hood. I plan to get a GlowShift fuel pressure gauge to go in the pod at some point to match the 3 in 1 that I still need to wire in. So many things to do. Seems I hardly have a chance to do much finishing up high school, doing volunteer fire stuff, and trying to get summer and fall things worked out.
Old 04-27-2018, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
I repaired a broken wire to my oil pressure transducer tonight after we got home from Disney on Ice.

Anyone know if the oil pressure transducer/ oil light pigtail is still available from anywhere?

I am sure Mopar used them on quite a few other vehicles in the 90's 2000's or would this be a Cummins item?

Did Mopar use Deutsch connectors.
Thanks Jim
Rock Auto lists them.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...connector,2603

Edwin
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
That is a really good find.
Thanks, Edwin
Old 04-28-2018, 11:07 PM
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Didn’t do anything except pick up my new project. My best friend passed away 9 years ago (at the age of 28) and his family contacted me and offered me one of his cars this past week. It’s a 56 Oval window bug, that we built countless motor combinations for. Everything from stock, to a couple of high compression 2 liters, to a turbo 1915 motor. YEARS of wrenching and racing this car all through growing up. Right before he got sick, he was working at a body shop. He did a full restoration on his 58 Bug, which we built a 2387cc pump gas motor for and was preparing to do the body and paint on the 56. After 9 years of sitting in his brothers back yard, totally stripped, I’ll be building this car up exactly how he wanted it. Shooting to run 10.50’s on fuel and 9.90’s on the bottle with a 2 liter turbo motor in it, while remaining streetable. That took most of the day. Tomorrow morning, I’m sending the kids off with Grandpa for a few hours, then installing my new 2 1/2” receiver hitch, Weigh Safe ball drop and wiring up the brake controller. If I have time, I have to do front and rear pads on the wife’s Ford Eacape and the overflow bottle. Busy day in the morning. Here’s the new car!
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:13 AM
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Working on getting the new S300GX turbo installed. I bought a DE 4" HX40 downpipe since I have a 4" DE exhaust. Comparing the new downpipe to the old one it looked like things should fit without modification. Not so, I'm having to hammer dents into the pipe to clear the engine adapter plate, the coolant tube at the back of the trans heat exchange tank, the frame rail. I guess it's moved just far enough backward to hit everything! Then I'll have to cut the HVAC insulation away from the pipe so it doesn't catch on fire. I haven't delt with denting or bending the turbo oil return pipe.
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Old 04-29-2018, 10:06 PM
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Got the new 2 1/2” hitch installed. Grandpa ran out of steam watching my 3 year old twins, so all I did was bolt the hitch up. It sits too far forward, but it was the best place to line up frame wise. If I can get to the shop early tomorrow, I’ll cut the step out of the bumper with the torch. Hitch fits fine in the drop position, but I can’t flip it to the raise position. I plan on building a custom bumper out of 1/4” plate and tube down the road, so a little hoppy-chop doesn’t bother me.


This upper piece wasn’t even welded to the “drop down” piece! When I cut the top loose, it fell to the ground unexpectedly.


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Old 04-29-2018, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 73CrewCab
Got the new 2 1/2” hitch installed. Grandpa ran out of steam watching my 3 year old twins, so all I did was bolt the hitch up. It sits too far forward, but it was the best place to line up frame wise. If I can get to the shop early tomorrow, I’ll cut the step out of the bumper with the torch. Hitch fits fine in the drop position, but I can’t flip it to the raise position. I plan on building a custom bumper out of 1/4” plate and tube down the road, so a little hoppy-chop doesn’t bother me.


This upper piece wasn’t even welded to the “drop down” piece! When I cut the top loose, it fell to the ground unexpectedly.


What is the weight rating on that hitch? My hitch was customized to say the least by the P.O. and needs replaced.
Old 04-30-2018, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 1stGEN'93
What is the weight rating on that hitch? My hitch was customized to say the least by the P.O. and needs replaced.
12,000 lbs and 1,200 tongue weight used normally.
14,000 lbs and 1,700 tongue weight with weight distribution bars. The part number from Etrailer is DT45505


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