What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
#6271
Registered User
I’ve been doing some searching and reading about fuel heaters. I’ve been doing so as I’ve been trying to narrow down why my truck doesn’t fire up quite as quick as other first gens. It also takes a little longer still once it has been worked hard going up the 5-7% grades around here. Temperature gauge shows normal, so I don’t think that that is the issue. I am now starting to think that it is from the fuel heater sensor I think it is. I’ve noticed a slight fuel leak where the wires go in there just above the fuel filter. The truck always starts, but seems like it takes a second to crank so it can prime sometimes and gets worse the warmer it gets.
I don't think it would have anything to not starting quickly. Mine doesn't want to start when it gets low on fuel so you might want to check the fuel pressure from your lift pump.
Edwin
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mknittle (05-03-2018)
#6272
Registered User
AFAIK there is no sensor in the fuel heater. It's controlled by the ECU. There is a big O-ring between the heater and the head that can leak. You unscrew the hollow stem in the middle to get the heater out. Your Cummins diesel shop should have them. They cost about $5.00
I don't think it would have anything to not starting quickly. Mine doesn't want to start when it gets low on fuel so you might want to check the fuel pressure from your lift pump.
Edwin
I don't think it would have anything to not starting quickly. Mine doesn't want to start when it gets low on fuel so you might want to check the fuel pressure from your lift pump.
Edwin
#6273
Registered User
Fuel additive
Last night I ordered a bunch of Stanadyne fuel additive off of Amazoid. There are auto parts stores around here that sell it, but they wanted nearly 2x as much per bottle I ordered a 12 pack of 16oz bottles of the blue label stuff, a 32oz jug of the injector cleaner (brown label), and a 64oz jug of the lubricator additive. I can’t remember where it is and I can’t find it again, but somewhere I read a thread with some very scientific testing done on different fuel additives and their effect on the lubricity of different fuel additives, and Stanadyne had one of the best lubricating properties, so I’m pretty happy with it. I haven’t ran any additive the past couple tanks since I ran out, but I plan to run some of one kind or another in every tank from now on. The brown label stuff is recommended for 4-6 times per year. The blue label and the lubricant additive is recommended for every tank, so I figure I’ll run one tank strong of the blue label and then the next tank I’ll run 30gallons worth of the cleaner and 30gallons worth of the lubricant stuff. I want to makes sure that as much of the hunk that is left over still from the WVO that the P.O. ran is cleaned out. After those first two tanks I’ll probably alternate between 30 gallon dose or so of the blue label and the purple label stuff. I might even go a little less than that since I don’t run my truck much below half tank ever. Especially since my fuel gauge doesn’t work except when it feels like it once in a blue moon, but somehow the low fuel light works I keep meaning to follow the wires from the sending unit to the gauge and make sure the connections are good and that there isn’t any bare wires, but I haven’t gotten to that yet. I’m still quite perplexed how the low fuel light works when the gauge doesn’t. I found that out after I had the tank cleaned to remove the gunk (I’ll put the picture below of what was in there when I dropped it and emptied it out to take it to the shop), and then put a few gallons in from a can to get to the fuel station to fill up.
#6274
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
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My fuel light used to come,on with 6 gallons remaining. I don't let it get that low anymore, as my truck and,Edwins have the same,issue.
#6275
Registered User
#6276
Registered User
It would be nice if someone still made a new sending unit assembly for these trucks. I suspect the gunk removes from the tank may have had a an effect, but then again, the low fuel light still works. Can’t remember how many gallons were in it that the light came on. I guess I just need to chase wires. I hate electrical problems. I think I’d rather pull the head. Or just be able to drive it and only have to do general maintenance and upgrades... Here’s a small amount of what was in the tank.
The little contacts on the fuel level sender, on the side of the fuel sending unit, that contact the float arm, wear out and will only make contact when the float is in the lowest position. When you're on E and your Low Fuel light comes on, your fuel gauge is working. You just can't tell.
-Niemand
#6277
Registered User
When I bought my truck, the fuel gauge didn't work but the Low Fuel light did. I bought a new float arm and fuel level sender assembly from Geno's and that fixed it. I just looked and didn't see it available but, I didn't spend much time looking for it.
The little contacts on the fuel level sender, on the side of the fuel sending unit, that contact the float arm, wear out and will only make contact when the float is in the lowest position. When you're on E and your Low Fuel light comes on, your fuel gauge is working. You just can't tell.
-Niemand
The little contacts on the fuel level sender, on the side of the fuel sending unit, that contact the float arm, wear out and will only make contact when the float is in the lowest position. When you're on E and your Low Fuel light comes on, your fuel gauge is working. You just can't tell.
-Niemand
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mknittle (05-04-2018)
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thrashingcows (05-04-2018)
#6281
Administrator
The seal is a rectangular ring, not an actual O-ring
I just bought one from Cummins last week.
#3913695 Rectangular Ring $6.01
I also ask him for the prices on:
#3916991RX injection pump $2417.40 remanufactured
#3916991 injection pump $3073.23
#4983584 Cummins Transfer Pump $105.31
Your local Mopar dealer should also have the rectangular ring however their part number is different. #4429 695
Jim
If it is too small to read, hold down the "CTRL" key and rotate the scroll wheel on your mouse.
I just bought one from Cummins last week.
#3913695 Rectangular Ring $6.01
I also ask him for the prices on:
#3916991RX injection pump $2417.40 remanufactured
#3916991 injection pump $3073.23
#4983584 Cummins Transfer Pump $105.31
Your local Mopar dealer should also have the rectangular ring however their part number is different. #4429 695
Jim
If it is too small to read, hold down the "CTRL" key and rotate the scroll wheel on your mouse.
#6282
Registered User
I am now starting to think that it is from the fuel heater sensor I think it is. I’ve noticed a slight fuel leak where the wires go in there just above the fuel filter. The truck always starts, but seems like it takes a second to crank so it can prime sometimes and gets worse the warmer it gets.
My friends truck was doing the same thing a couple of of years ago so I did some research about fuel heater leaking and was informed the if the pig tail is wet on the inside you need to remove or replace the fuel heater as you are introducing air into your fuel system causing hard starts... long story short we just deleted it, put on a new fuel filter and it fired right up, he said it hadn't run that good for a long time.
#6283
Administrator
I’ve been doing some searching and reading about fuel heaters. I’ve been doing so as I’ve been trying to narrow down why my truck doesn’t fire up quite as quick as other first gens. It also takes a little longer still once it has been worked hard going up the 5-7% grades around here. Temperature gauge shows normal, so I don’t think that that is the issue. I am now starting to think that it is from the fuel heater sensor I think it is. I’ve noticed a slight fuel leak where the wires go in there just above the fuel filter. The truck always starts, but seems like it takes a second to crank so it can prime sometimes and gets worse the warmer it gets.
#6284
Registered User
#6285
Registered User
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edwinsmith (05-04-2018)