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What did you do to your Gen 1 today?

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Old 05-02-2018, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stGEN'93
I’ve been doing some searching and reading about fuel heaters. I’ve been doing so as I’ve been trying to narrow down why my truck doesn’t fire up quite as quick as other first gens. It also takes a little longer still once it has been worked hard going up the 5-7% grades around here. Temperature gauge shows normal, so I don’t think that that is the issue. I am now starting to think that it is from the fuel heater sensor I think it is. I’ve noticed a slight fuel leak where the wires go in there just above the fuel filter. The truck always starts, but seems like it takes a second to crank so it can prime sometimes and gets worse the warmer it gets.
AFAIK there is no sensor in the fuel heater. It's controlled by the ECU. There is a big O-ring between the heater and the head that can leak. You unscrew the hollow stem in the middle to get the heater out. Your Cummins diesel shop should have them. They cost about $5.00

I don't think it would have anything to not starting quickly. Mine doesn't want to start when it gets low on fuel so you might want to check the fuel pressure from your lift pump.

Edwin
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Old 05-02-2018, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
AFAIK there is no sensor in the fuel heater. It's controlled by the ECU. There is a big O-ring between the heater and the head that can leak. You unscrew the hollow stem in the middle to get the heater out. Your Cummins diesel shop should have them. They cost about $5.00

I don't think it would have anything to not starting quickly. Mine doesn't want to start when it gets low on fuel so you might want to check the fuel pressure from your lift pump.

Edwin
It has leaked fuel out before where the wires go into it. When I went out and started the truck solely for the purpose of looking for leaks from there, it didn't leak while running or after. The truck only sometimes gets harder to start after it has been ran up steep grades for an extended period of time, but other times it fires up on the second revolution. A LPHV lift pump is on my list of things to do. Fuel pressure gauge as well.
Old 05-03-2018, 11:29 AM
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Fuel additive

Last night I ordered a bunch of Stanadyne fuel additive off of Amazoid. There are auto parts stores around here that sell it, but they wanted nearly 2x as much per bottle I ordered a 12 pack of 16oz bottles of the blue label stuff, a 32oz jug of the injector cleaner (brown label), and a 64oz jug of the lubricator additive. I can’t remember where it is and I can’t find it again, but somewhere I read a thread with some very scientific testing done on different fuel additives and their effect on the lubricity of different fuel additives, and Stanadyne had one of the best lubricating properties, so I’m pretty happy with it. I haven’t ran any additive the past couple tanks since I ran out, but I plan to run some of one kind or another in every tank from now on. The brown label stuff is recommended for 4-6 times per year. The blue label and the lubricant additive is recommended for every tank, so I figure I’ll run one tank strong of the blue label and then the next tank I’ll run 30gallons worth of the cleaner and 30gallons worth of the lubricant stuff. I want to makes sure that as much of the hunk that is left over still from the WVO that the P.O. ran is cleaned out. After those first two tanks I’ll probably alternate between 30 gallon dose or so of the blue label and the purple label stuff. I might even go a little less than that since I don’t run my truck much below half tank ever. Especially since my fuel gauge doesn’t work except when it feels like it once in a blue moon, but somehow the low fuel light works I keep meaning to follow the wires from the sending unit to the gauge and make sure the connections are good and that there isn’t any bare wires, but I haven’t gotten to that yet. I’m still quite perplexed how the low fuel light works when the gauge doesn’t. I found that out after I had the tank cleaned to remove the gunk (I’ll put the picture below of what was in there when I dropped it and emptied it out to take it to the shop), and then put a few gallons in from a can to get to the fuel station to fill up.
Old 05-03-2018, 01:17 PM
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My fuel light used to come,on with 6 gallons remaining. I don't let it get that low anymore, as my truck and,Edwins have the same,issue.
Old 05-03-2018, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by NJTman
My fuel light used to come,on with 6 gallons remaining. I don't let it get that low anymore, as my truck and,Edwins have the same,issue.
It would be nice if someone still made a new sending unit assembly for these trucks. I suspect the gunk removes from the tank may have had a an effect, but then again, the low fuel light still works. Can’t remember how many gallons were in it that the light came on. I guess I just need to chase wires. I hate electrical problems. I think I’d rather pull the head. Or just be able to drive it and only have to do general maintenance and upgrades... Here’s a small amount of what was in the tank.
Old 05-03-2018, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stGEN'93

It would be nice if someone still made a new sending unit assembly for these trucks. I suspect the gunk removes from the tank may have had a an effect, but then again, the low fuel light still works. Can’t remember how many gallons were in it that the light came on. I guess I just need to chase wires. I hate electrical problems. I think I’d rather pull the head. Or just be able to drive it and only have to do general maintenance and upgrades... Here’s a small amount of what was in the tank.
When I bought my truck, the fuel gauge didn't work but the Low Fuel light did. I bought a new float arm and fuel level sender assembly from Geno's and that fixed it. I just looked and didn't see it available but, I didn't spend much time looking for it.
The little contacts on the fuel level sender, on the side of the fuel sending unit, that contact the float arm, wear out and will only make contact when the float is in the lowest position. When you're on E and your Low Fuel light comes on, your fuel gauge is working. You just can't tell.

-Niemand
Old 05-03-2018, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by N. Besonderes
When I bought my truck, the fuel gauge didn't work but the Low Fuel light did. I bought a new float arm and fuel level sender assembly from Geno's and that fixed it. I just looked and didn't see it available but, I didn't spend much time looking for it.
The little contacts on the fuel level sender, on the side of the fuel sending unit, that contact the float arm, wear out and will only make contact when the float is in the lowest position. When you're on E and your Low Fuel light comes on, your fuel gauge is working. You just can't tell.

-Niemand
Thanks for the heads up on at least what it is. Now the trick will be finding one.
Old 05-03-2018, 07:44 PM
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The wife got me this:



She went to a trade show this morning in Anaheim.
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Old 05-03-2018, 08:38 PM
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Fixed the loose tailgate rods!

Here's the fix for tailgate rods:

You'll need two packs of these, just need the black ones!








There! That was easy!
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Old 05-04-2018, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Butterball
Here's the fix for tailgate rods:

You'll need two packs of these, just need the black ones!








There! That was easy!
So you got them at Staples?
Old 05-04-2018, 06:48 AM
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The seal is a rectangular ring, not an actual O-ring
I just bought one from Cummins last week.



#3913695 Rectangular Ring $6.01

I also ask him for the prices on:

#3916991RX injection pump $2417.40 remanufactured
#3916991 injection pump $3073.23

#4983584 Cummins Transfer Pump $105.31

Your local Mopar dealer should also have the rectangular ring however their part number is different. #4429 695

Jim

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Old 05-04-2018, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 1stGEN'93
I am now starting to think that it is from the fuel heater sensor I think it is. I’ve noticed a slight fuel leak where the wires go in there just above the fuel filter. The truck always starts, but seems like it takes a second to crank so it can prime sometimes and gets worse the warmer it gets.

My friends truck was doing the same thing a couple of of years ago so I did some research about fuel heater leaking and was informed the if the pig tail is wet on the inside you need to remove or replace the fuel heater as you are introducing air into your fuel system causing hard starts... long story short we just deleted it, put on a new fuel filter and it fired right up, he said it hadn't run that good for a long time.

We live in north eastern Washington and it gets fairly cold here and he never replaced it and has no problems not having it on the truck, but he does keep it plugged in during the coldest months of winter, it's number 3 in this image
Old 05-04-2018, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 1stGEN'93
I’ve been doing some searching and reading about fuel heaters. I’ve been doing so as I’ve been trying to narrow down why my truck doesn’t fire up quite as quick as other first gens. It also takes a little longer still once it has been worked hard going up the 5-7% grades around here. Temperature gauge shows normal, so I don’t think that that is the issue. I am now starting to think that it is from the fuel heater sensor I think it is. I’ve noticed a slight fuel leak where the wires go in there just above the fuel filter. The truck always starts, but seems like it takes a second to crank so it can prime sometimes and gets worse the warmer it gets.
If you have a leak at the fuel heater, that is a source of air into the system when you are running down the highway. I believe that there are gaskets or orings, I don't remember off hand, on the fuel heater...Mark
Old 05-04-2018, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Butterball
Here's the fix for tailgate rods:

You'll need two packs of these, just need the black ones!








There! That was easy!
I did mine a month ago.
Old 05-04-2018, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
So you got them at Staples?
I got them at a NAPA store.
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