Well I went and ordered a #10 plate, which should be here tomorrow or the day after. TST seems to have excellent instructions on their site. But I would like to know, from the many who have replaced or moved plates, is there anything I should be prepared for in advance? I know I have to take off a few parts, how common is it to rip a gasket and need a new one? I want the install to go as smooth as possible.

Also, the instructions show using the setup plate to install the new plate with. Some move the plate further forward. I don't want to be opening this thing up more than once...is it advisable to use the install plate, or would I be happier to slide the plate forward? I have no other mods yet, other than the 4" downpipe and straight exhaust. I don't do much towing, but on occasion I pull a 1-car trailer. I also live in hilly terrain. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Jim

 

The Gasket is an oring, and if your careful, it won't be damaged.

You may have to remove the fule line between the filter & the injection pump. if you do, be careful not to damage the seals/gaskets on the banjo bolts. I had mine off several times before I had to get new ones.

I have mine in the full forward position by the guide plate the sent. Full forward gave me too much smoke for my tastes.


GET GAGES BEFORE YOU PUT THE PLATE IN (if you don't already have them).

 

Jim:
I didn't see any gauges in your signature. If not, that should be your first mod. You can still get pretty hot with the #10 especially if you're like a lot of us with a new toy. I'd start in the stock position or even a little back if you don't have the gauges yet. Also with a stock tranny you may want to take it a little easier. Don't worry, you'll be back into the pump to put on the 3K GSK in a few weeks/months. The power is addictive. The install is pretty straight forward. The breakoff screw can be a pain. Take your time and you will get it. There's an o-ring on the underside of the AFC housing but it's hard to damage that unless you really try. Just keep everything clean and don't drop a screw down in the pump. We'll watch for any panic posts. Let us know how you like the plate.

 

I don't have the gauges yet (except trans temp, which is sitting in a box in the kitchen...need to get it in), but I'm ordering a pyrometer within a few days. It may be here by the time I get around to installing the plate. Otherwise I'll take it very easy until its in. Boost gauge is next, hopefully very soon, but I don't think its quite as critical as EGT.

Jim

 

I dont think that you will melt anything waiting for the egt gauge but be real careful with the slow accelerations. On my 175HP pump I actually build more heat with light acceleration and low boost than I do when I got WOT with higher boost and accelerate though the gears. I can really easily see 900 pre turbo EGTs in town. I brought my car trailer (2000lb empty) back this weekend through the VA mtns and the Highest EGT was 925. If your auto trans will let ya try and keep your RPMs abobe 1750 and your motor will stay cooler.

 

If you don't have a pyro, I'd suggest leaving it in the stock position for now. You do have good exhaust but you never know your temps without a pyro. You can hotrod around a bit but try not to keep your foot in it for prolonged periods. Once you've been into the pump it's no big deal and a quick job to adjust the plate.

 

Since you have auto in that truck, putting the 10 plate in stock position shouldn't cause an EGT issue. I never saw over 900* pre-turbo. Had no other fueling mods at the time. Just a K&N drop-in and a 5" straight exhaust.

 

leave it in the stock position until you do some tranny work. You will enjoy the modest power increase with it there. By the time that wears off you'll be tinkering with the trans. A #10 fwd is pretty aggressive and your auto won't like that very long. After all you wouldn't be putting it in if you didn't want to use the power Just MHO...

Chris