A little light in the wallet this morning. I just sent off a check for Piers' PDR-HX40/HT3B twin system. Got a heck of a deal with the purchase of an o-ring job, dual disc clutch and other odds and ins. My truck is my daily driver so when installing the PDR twins I'm going to be having to make the wife haul me around. So I was wondering if anyone knew about how long it takes to install them? Just trying to figure out my down time. I'm going to be doing all this in the driveway so I have to make sure I have enough beer for all the friends I'm gonna drag over to help me out. I went with a #0 plate, 370's, 4k gov, head studs heavier boots&clamps. I figured this would net me near the 500hp mark. At least that was my goal anyhow. If not then a set of high flow D-valves might put me over the mark.

 

Wow. It's like christmas all over again. I would think it would about a week to do. Especially since your doing the clutch and o-ring. As for the other stuff, give it a couple of days and about 2 cases or so.

 

Barring any unforseen problems you should be able to assemble them in a day. I'll tell you that you will probably struggle with the new intercooler boots for a couple of hours though. The best thing to do is take a weekend to do the twins and IC boots. If you have any problems just ask as I've done a few sets .

 

One thing to help you on installing any boost is rubbing alcohol(no beer won't work) just put a small hole in the cap and shoot it inside the boost then slip it on, makes it a little slippery then dries kind of tacky.

Nathan, what about the 2nd turbo drain, he has a 96'!

Jim

 

Something array with a 96 and trying to install a 2nd drain?

 

Twins=5 hours+ (approx)
Dual disc clutch=5 hours (approx)
Swap or install head=6 hours (approx)

You might gain a little time if you do all the engine work at once.

--Justin

 

I forgot about the 12v rear drain. I dont know if Jason has found a easy solution to that or not. On his truck we dropped some of the oil and cut a hole in the pan with a hole saw. Then we used the end of the stock turbo drain (that needs to be cut off) and welded it to the pan. It would be easiest if you could remove the pan and TIG it up but a MIG in place works although it leaked the first time we ran it and had to be fixed. Or you could just find an updated block with the rear drain to swap in there .

 

I have a spare oil pan sitting in my garage. If I have to I'll just modify that pan and then swap'em. Does anyone know if it's illegal to have a 5" stack coming straight up out of your hood in front of the windshield?

 

A pan swap isnt exactly a quick job . Some say you can do it without pullin the motor, but I dont see how if youve got a 4x4 .
Realistically (if this is your fist set of twins, first clutch and first head swap) youre lookin' at:
Twins: 8-10hrs
Clutch: 8-10hrs
Head: 8-10hrs
Injectors: 1hr
GSK: 2 hrs
Plate: 30 mins.
TOTAL:~ 3 - 3.5 days = 3 cases Coors Light or 2 cases Coors Original .
Good luck, You'll have one heck of a daily driver when your done. And I think you should be solid into the 500 -520 range.
Scott

 

I dont know if it is legal but it would be nearly impossible with a PDR kit unless you did some extensive modification.

 

3903744 is the part Cummins number for that drain tube that Nathan is talking about, slick idea I think. On the 98 and above blocks that have the second boss in the block you can cut the bend out of this part and sew it back up then install that in the block.....works good for me!

Jim

 

Does a 96 not have the extra drain already in the block my 97 had 2.

 

Prolly no drain in the 96 and not all the 97's had the drain. The later 97's had a newer style block. The STORM block or ( Straight Thread O-Ring Metric )

All 98 and up trucks should have the STORM block and of course the drain.

Don~

 

So my 97 was just lucky.

 

I was not lucky when i did mine.Had to make a drain bung.Made it so that the oil would not flow directly in and hit the crank.Welded a eyebrow on the inside of the bung to direct the oil down.Buy a weld in bung 3/4 pipe,cut a piece of pipe in the shape of a slice of pie.Then weld it to the inside portion of the bung.Cut your hole in the pan.Make sure you index the drain down.Weld in the bung.Remember to stitch and cool,stitch and cool.OOPS,drill hole only 3/4 inch away from lip of pan.Hope this helps.