IBREAK

`I have min e out getting ready to grind it. Is there anything else free I can do in this area while I have it apart.

Thanks,
bryan

infidel

Remember to slide the AFC housing all the way forward when you reinstall it.

Willy91

you can also turn the starwheel up.

TxDiesel007

Dont forget to start savin up for a trans

ur gonna need it lol!!!

Rick

IBREAK

Even with a 5. I kinda made a #10 looks just like the ones you buy. Seems to have a little more snap at earlier rmp but still defuels about the same as before. I don't really know what I did but it still runs so I guess its not all bad. Also did straight pipe and took of the turbo silencer.

bryan

hoser

So , if you have a "spare plate " , is is it worth a go to try to grind one yourself ? A #10 plate would cost me $250.00 , but a grinder and a template is free!!

IBREAK

I did it. Just go slow and becarefull. The metal is not nearly as hard as everyone says it is. Yes it is cast but I would not use a bench grinder. I used a small angle grinder and a dremel and sand paper. Mine has the exact shape of a tst #10 plate and it was free.


????. What do I need to do with the waste gate mine is on the back of the avp the tst directions said to block it I think. With what.

marine4life

you can block it with an adjustable boost elbow, you find them sold on ebay for like $10 bucks, it screws into the turbo housing and allows you to fully block your wastegate, increasing boost from 18 pounds to about 30-35 pounds. becareful though, too much boost with a stock turbo increases cylinder pressure along with egt's, it also hinders any performance increase you had from your plate. remember, more boost without more fuel does not equal more power. same thing with more fuel without more boost also doesn't equal more power, it equals a crapload of smoke. hey where in nc are you from, i'm stationed at lejuene, id gladly help you with any mods you had for your truck. i make any excuse to work on trucks.

BCB

Plate and Star wheel is all I know of other then timing.

chop342

if your looking for more free power, leave the wastegate hooked up you will need it, when you have the plate out cut it to a #100 which is straight down with a small hook at the bottom (i will snap a pic and stick one in my gallery today). then take the AFC housing over to the bench and take the infamous star wheel everyone talks about right out, take out all the guts in the AFC except the rubber aneroid it seals the two pieces together and unhook the boost line to it and just run it right to the wastegate line. nothin too it then its just fuel limit by which plate you have and how heavy your foot is. ive done that mod to more trucks than i can count and they all like it, it does no damage or harm to anything. also remember to adjust your cam follower or feeler blade in the pump to hit at the very bottom edge of your new cut plate. 16*-16.5* timing would also not be a bad idea.

BCB

What does this do? I have never heard of this befor

plow

BEFORE you do anything you better get a pyro. I would not remove the guts of the afc unless you like smoke and high egt's, especially with a 100 plate. A 100 PLATE AND NO GUTS WITH EVERYTHING FORWARD EQUALLS SMOKE,HIGH EGT'S AND A CATASTROPHIC FAILER WITHOUT GAUGES.

TxDiesel007

This is true and the best advice on this thread yet..

Rick

cumminsdriver635

Those boost elbows are pretty crappy if you ask me. Just a junky way of basically blocking off the wastegate(i didnt like mine anyway). Buy a Manual Boost controller for the same price or a few $ more on ebay. it will be much more adjustable, and work much better. They are basically made for ricers, but work good on our trucks from what I hear. if I go back to my 12cm w/g housing; I am going to buy/run one.

Eric

IBREAK

What does this mean and do I need to do it. Day one plate did amazing I can not believe how much more go I have.



also remember to adjust your cam follower or feeler blade in the pump to hit at the very bottom edge of your new cut plate. 16*-16.5* timing would also not be a bad idea.