Both filaments lit when on high beam FYI
Originally posted by torquefan
Bobcat, have you ordered this kit? Just wondering what the quality is like, since there's no picture. Thanks.
Bobcat, have you ordered this kit? Just wondering what the quality is like, since there's no picture. Thanks.
I personally would be disappointed with what you get for the price but it makes it easier for some folks just plugging things in rather making a couple of splices.
I've done the same mod the black cloud kit does to several trucks with a $10 relay, a few crimp connectors, an inline fuse and a bit of wire.
On my 02 all I had to due was pull the relay in my relay box and short two of the tabs together and reinstall the relay now my low beams stay on when I switch my high beams on. I can't remember right now which tabs needed shorted I think it was 3 and 5 but I will look and let you know. Also I don't know which years this will work for.
Oops my bad that mod was for keeping the fog lights on when the high beams were on, sorry had a brain fart. However for anyone with fog lights that would like them to stay on when you switch on your high beams I highly recommend this mod. On the 02's all you have to do is pull the fog light relay and short pins 3 and 5 and then reinstall it's that easy.
Originally posted by torquefan
Bobcat, have you ordered this kit? Just wondering what the quality is like, since there's no picture. Thanks.
Bobcat, have you ordered this kit? Just wondering what the quality is like, since there's no picture. Thanks.
Works nicely with the hi-low beam on at the same time
Its also noticably brighter with just the low beams and the silverstars because more voltage gets to the bulbs.
Also, this will help prevent the headlight switch from "burning up" as easily because the load for the bulbs is transferred directly to the batteries instead.
How's you guys L\R headlight assemblies lookin' by now - that's an awful lot of xtra heat to be putting in those plastic housings, even at nite when ambients are a little cooler - notice any browning of the lenses or surrounding areas?
SIGH...
I feel like so much less of a man.
I have been outside trying to do this mod as well as the switch front and back door switch mod to kill the reverse honking.
I'm partly colorblind, but I don't think that's it. With a test light I could not find ANY wire that came on with the HL switch. Nor could I find the door switch wires in the prescribed connector.
Bummed out would be too nice of a way to explain how I feel!
I feel like so much less of a man.
I have been outside trying to do this mod as well as the switch front and back door switch mod to kill the reverse honking.
I'm partly colorblind, but I don't think that's it. With a test light I could not find ANY wire that came on with the HL switch. Nor could I find the door switch wires in the prescribed connector.
Bummed out would be too nice of a way to explain how I feel!
I am about to do this and was trying the idea by holding my high beams and low beams on manually - but then the lights would blink off after keeping them on for a while - any idea if that indicates there will be a problem if I actually do the wiring?? Thanks
HI Jim--
I know I'm the minority here, but I strongly recommend NOT trying to wire up high/low simultaneously. The housing isn't designed for that much heat, and neither is the headlight switch. If you wire it up that way and dim your dash lights at all, the switch gets REALLY hot.
A better way to go (the PROPER way, IMO) is to wire the headlights off relays directly from the batteries. This takes load off the switch and will deliver another 1.5V or so to the lights so they are noticeably brighter.
You'll need four relays-- one for each side, one for each low/high.
It sounds harder than it really is to wire up. A relay is just an electrically controlled switch. So your dash switch turns on the 'switches' under the hood.
I know I'm the minority here, but I strongly recommend NOT trying to wire up high/low simultaneously. The housing isn't designed for that much heat, and neither is the headlight switch. If you wire it up that way and dim your dash lights at all, the switch gets REALLY hot.
A better way to go (the PROPER way, IMO) is to wire the headlights off relays directly from the batteries. This takes load off the switch and will deliver another 1.5V or so to the lights so they are noticeably brighter.
You'll need four relays-- one for each side, one for each low/high.
It sounds harder than it really is to wire up. A relay is just an electrically controlled switch. So your dash switch turns on the 'switches' under the hood.
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