LOL sorry I work on heavy EQ and think everyone knows most of the tech jargon

A PTO cable is simply a throttle cable, used in med heavy duty applications to idle the trucks/ EQ up to run PTO or other engine driven accesorys.


The most common in trucks is a threaded style (turn to adjust) with a button in the center to overide it.

In trucks you also have your foot feed which is your main or direct feed, so it is neccsisary to use a slide or a peice of chain like I did on the end hooked directly to the throttle lever so that the foot feed overrides the cable.



I'll try to find a link unless somebody else can help me out, but just do a search on google for PTO cable and you should see what I'm talkin about

 

Kinda neat though, mountin it in the cig lighter where its resessed, kinda looks like its supposed to be there.

Here's one type like mine http://www.truckntow.com/pc-11450-14...-cable-15.aspx

 

That would be hellacious to integrate into a remote starter. We're talking about stepper motors, maybe a servo motor, some one-off machined adapters, and a PLC. I don't think you could do it for less than $3,000.

Sean

 

So did you hook it to the pedal in the truck?

 

Its hooked into the throttle lever on the same side as the cruise, and ya gotta put a small length of chain so it doesn't interfere with the normal travel in the foot feed, I used the same kinda chain they put on dogtags for ease of adjustability.

As far as the remote start goes ya just gotta set it before you shut the truck off and mash the button back in when ya get in the truck to take it back to idle.

As far as the remote start and the smarty/MAD ecm I haven't tryed stting it and then startin the truck, don't think it would work on mine unless I had it plugged in just due to the fact if I give it and throttle when I start it up cold it floods the truck out, but I have ALOT of fuel being dumped in it too, on mildly moded trucks I don't think it would be a prob.

I'll try startin it tom with the throttle set bout 1200 and see how bad my MAD makes it rev.

If ya want I'll try and get some pics I didn't figure anyone would want this simple old of tech on their trucks I was kinda just aggervatin, but it does work well, super reliable, really simple and not that expensive.

 

I've cranked mine up with the smarty and with the high idle engaged and I haven't had a problem.

 

Smarty no prob for me either on settings 3 7 or 9

 

I have a 30 inch piece of wood notched just right to fit in the metal frame of my electric seat and notched to fit the accelerator pedal on the other end,,Slide electric seat forward to depress the pedal and raise the idle..

Works great.

 

I received all of my components, I am in the process of taking pictures and identifying everything. I will put together a tutorial or "assembly instructions" sometime later this week. I ordered way more stuff than i need, so I'm just trying to figure out what variation I want to go with and then put it together. A few people have been asking for pictures and instructions, so this is what I aim to do. You should see something by Saturday or Sunday at the latest.

Sean

 

AND i have a bike to ride instead of driving my truck.....soo what? hahaha........

 

Ok,

I got a package yesterday, and I've opened it up and inspected its contents. It's everything I ordered, and I'm waiting on a few connectors to complete my parts list. I thought some people here might be interested in seeing what I have spec'd out for this project. So have a look at the picture...

The two little yellow blocks are 30V, 2A DPDT relays (the coil operates on 12V).
The ***** are both billet products, one black and one silver colored.
There are two different switches in the top of the picture, the green push button style is lighted.
The 3 leds are all different, one is Red/Green, one is Red, and one is Green
The Resistors are noteworthy because they are metal film, which means they are a much tighter tollerance
* +/- 1% versus the ones you buy at Radio Shack that are around +/- 15%
Then there is the potentiometer, it's just a 10k Ohm Pot.


I won't use all of these parts, but it was cheaper for me to order up a bunch a stuff and see what works than to order exactly what I needed and pay a handling charge. I will post more when I actually build this thing. This weekend should be a good one for testing. It's supposed to reach a high of -2 degrees fahrenheit on Saturday

Sean

 

Didn't you say you ordered a smaller POT? That one looks rather large. If you are trying to keep the size of the housing down much smaller POTs are available. Just some food for thought.

 

Yeah, I realize that I can get a much smaller pot. The reason behind my choice was twofold. Number one was that I wanted something fairly robust. Number two was that the switch would require some depth anyways. Believe I looked through a lot parts. Ad remember that this is still a prototype.

I really do appreciate any feedback though. It helps a lot to seed new ideas.

Sean

 

Wow, is this thing sweet!

Thanks to Brian (bnold), and with some help from Tyler (bigblue) I got my high idle box on this morning. Beside having the nifty high idle feature, re-adjusting the APPS made a noticeable difference in my low end response.

Thanks Guys.

 

I finally got my concept together. Although, I was having some issues with the enclosures, so I just used the smallest radioshack box available. Here are some shots of what I have done. I'll get it in the truck tomorrow, it should take about 20 minutes. I hope there are some questions, and I look forward to "trying" to answer them.

I can take more pictures after the final install if anyone is interested in seeing them.

On a side note: I did not add in the 2k ohm resistor as I want to measure resistance once the unit has power applied. That way I can add whatever resistance I need when the circuit to achieve the correct voltage. Also, note that this is the 2 relay design, which incorporates the idle sense switch.

Sean