APPS High Idler
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APPS High Idler
I just spent the past three hours reading about techniques to raise the idle for warm up. The stick is out of the question because I have a remote starter with an output I plan to use to raise the idle. I did come accross a thread about tapping into the APPS harness with a resistor and a potentiometer. So, I looked and looked, but could not find anything on what wires were cut or spliced. I have access to some pretty neat rapid tooling stuff, so making a nice aesthetically pleasing enclosure and switch panel would be easy. In short, if I can figure out what wires to deal with I could offer these for sale... cheap. $200 for a controller is retarded. So how 'bout it... anyone know for sure what wires to tap/cut?
Thanks for the help
Sean
Thanks for the help
Sean
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I guess I could speculate a little on this one. I see that there is a 5 volt supply, signal, and return wire for the pedal position side of the sensor. Anyone care to venture a guess as to which one is the prime suspect for raising the idle?
Sean
Sean
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I have though about the same thing in my truck......but then at the time...i lived in Texas! haha......BUT i will tell you this:
We had a DTR meet at my old house in Gainesville, Texas Feb of this year before my DPP days. It so happened to be the coldest day of the year....15*F. WELP.....RJohnson just got his Smarty and was letting everyone try it out.....I did and a few others. WELL we flashed one of the trucks that morn. The truck was started and warmed up...but about 30 seconds after being started....idle kicked up to about 1200....we didnt know what was going on! BUT quickly figured out what was up. haha.....WELP....i tried the Smarty the night before...and put it back to stock before my clutch beat me! I had to go into town that morn so i let my truck warm up. WELP my idle kicked up too! Even after taking the Smarty out. After the meet...we did some digging and found that the Smarty doesnt not flash the stock tune that was in the truck....Rather is uses its own updated flash and turns on the High Idle and 3 Cyl idle if its gets even colder........pretty cool if you ask me....and another option....UNLESS you want the control for 30*+ days......Might be a cool idea for a constant throttle....like a tractor if you will.......read on another site that a guy just knocked down 30 MPG with using a set up like that going 45 MPH...... It might have happened....but i find it hard to chew......but that is just me and this is getting off topic......im done!
OK...one more thing about the wires:
Could one of the wires be an idle signal? And the other the single voltage to referance TP? I think the PSD have a similar setup? With out a schematic, its hard to tell......but im interested in what is figured out....
NOW im done!
We had a DTR meet at my old house in Gainesville, Texas Feb of this year before my DPP days. It so happened to be the coldest day of the year....15*F. WELP.....RJohnson just got his Smarty and was letting everyone try it out.....I did and a few others. WELL we flashed one of the trucks that morn. The truck was started and warmed up...but about 30 seconds after being started....idle kicked up to about 1200....we didnt know what was going on! BUT quickly figured out what was up. haha.....WELP....i tried the Smarty the night before...and put it back to stock before my clutch beat me! I had to go into town that morn so i let my truck warm up. WELP my idle kicked up too! Even after taking the Smarty out. After the meet...we did some digging and found that the Smarty doesnt not flash the stock tune that was in the truck....Rather is uses its own updated flash and turns on the High Idle and 3 Cyl idle if its gets even colder........pretty cool if you ask me....and another option....UNLESS you want the control for 30*+ days......Might be a cool idea for a constant throttle....like a tractor if you will.......read on another site that a guy just knocked down 30 MPG with using a set up like that going 45 MPH...... It might have happened....but i find it hard to chew......but that is just me and this is getting off topic......im done!
OK...one more thing about the wires:
Could one of the wires be an idle signal? And the other the single voltage to referance TP? I think the PSD have a similar setup? With out a schematic, its hard to tell......but im interested in what is figured out....
NOW im done!
#4
Hi guys
One of my thoughts was to try to figure out a way to utilize the cruise control to set the throttle. My reason for bringing up that thought is from my experience in the school transportation business. Our International buses are all equipped with DT466E's which come standard with a cruise control function that doubles as a throttle warm up control.
And BTW, I've already tried setting the cruise for warm up in my 1998.5, nada
Best regards,
Randi
One of my thoughts was to try to figure out a way to utilize the cruise control to set the throttle. My reason for bringing up that thought is from my experience in the school transportation business. Our International buses are all equipped with DT466E's which come standard with a cruise control function that doubles as a throttle warm up control.
And BTW, I've already tried setting the cruise for warm up in my 1998.5, nada
Best regards,
Randi
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Dodge has already come up with a cruise control/idle function that you can uses as a warm up function. Its available on the 04.5-07 Cummins engines.
You just turn the cruise on and use the accel/resume button to select the rpms desired. You have to take it to the dealer and let them put that in your ECM.
This info all came from a Dodge certified tech at a local dealer. They developed that to prevent sulpher build up in the combustion chambers during low rpm idles. That was a problem for those year model Cummins engines.
You just turn the cruise on and use the accel/resume button to select the rpms desired. You have to take it to the dealer and let them put that in your ECM.
This info all came from a Dodge certified tech at a local dealer. They developed that to prevent sulpher build up in the combustion chambers during low rpm idles. That was a problem for those year model Cummins engines.
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Wiring Diagram
Ok Guys,
Here what I found. Yes there are technically two functions served by the APPS. Function number one is the idle switch. It sends a signal to the ECM if the accelerator is in an idle position or in an off-idle postion. That is simply a switch. Function number two is the variable resistance "position" sender. As the pedal is depressed, the resistance is decreased (?). So in order to make a unit that could control the idle you would need a 5wire relay to switch the sensor to an off idle position, and a potentiometer to decrease the resistance and subsequently raise the signal voltage to the ECM. I believe this to be correct, but I'm really looking for some input from some of the techs.
CSAGrey,
How might I be able to set up that high tech "linear actuator" to work with my remote start?
Thanks Again,
Sean
Here what I found. Yes there are technically two functions served by the APPS. Function number one is the idle switch. It sends a signal to the ECM if the accelerator is in an idle position or in an off-idle postion. That is simply a switch. Function number two is the variable resistance "position" sender. As the pedal is depressed, the resistance is decreased (?). So in order to make a unit that could control the idle you would need a 5wire relay to switch the sensor to an off idle position, and a potentiometer to decrease the resistance and subsequently raise the signal voltage to the ECM. I believe this to be correct, but I'm really looking for some input from some of the techs.
CSAGrey,
How might I be able to set up that high tech "linear actuator" to work with my remote start?
Thanks Again,
Sean
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I would have no problem supplying some "Beta Models" for testing. But I would like some input on design features. So, what are the most important features in a high idler setup? I think I might have an easy system nailed down, but I can always complicate it to better suit the majority.
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I have a P.S. High Idler and it is simply a potentiometer that is spliced into the 3 wires (Constant 5 volt, Ground, and Siganl) from the APPS. They did not touch the idle circuit. None of the wires are cut, they just tapped into the three wires and basically added on a second APPS that controls the throttle by adjusting the potentiometer. Since they chose to do nothing with the idle checks you can only idle up to 1550 RPM's, anything higher than that and it will set the check engine light. It would not be hard at all to rig up your own high idler, and for a lot less than $200.
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Rockjeep,
Do you have any pics your setup? From what I can see it makes no difference how the pot is hooked up, as long as the center leads of both the pot and the APPS's pot are on the same wire. Is this correct? I'm still thinking something with a relay for for the sake of both safety features (parking brake interlock, or nuetral safety switch) and the ability to trigger it via remote. I think you could just hook the +5V and the return side of the APPS to a DPDT relay for switching on and off. So, then you could set your idle where you want it and turn it on and off by a toggle switch. Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks again for all the help.
Sean
Do you have any pics your setup? From what I can see it makes no difference how the pot is hooked up, as long as the center leads of both the pot and the APPS's pot are on the same wire. Is this correct? I'm still thinking something with a relay for for the sake of both safety features (parking brake interlock, or nuetral safety switch) and the ability to trigger it via remote. I think you could just hook the +5V and the return side of the APPS to a DPDT relay for switching on and off. So, then you could set your idle where you want it and turn it on and off by a toggle switch. Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks again for all the help.
Sean
#13
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I'd like to add a timer feature to this- for the remote start of a cold engine I think it would be nice to let it idle on stock rpm for a minute at least and then ramp it up to the desired high idle.
Just my 2c
AlpineRAM
Just my 2c
AlpineRAM
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Ok Guys,
Here what I found. Yes there are technically two functions served by the APPS. Function number one is the idle switch. It sends a signal to the ECM if the accelerator is in an idle position or in an off-idle postion. That is simply a switch. Function number two is the variable resistance "position" sender. As the pedal is depressed, the resistance is decreased (?). So in order to make a unit that could control the idle you would need a 5wire relay to switch the sensor to an off idle position, and a potentiometer to decrease the resistance and subsequently raise the signal voltage to the ECM. I believe this to be correct, but I'm really looking for some input from some of the techs.
CSAGrey,
How might I be able to set up that high tech "linear actuator" to work with my remote start?
Thanks Again,
Sean
Here what I found. Yes there are technically two functions served by the APPS. Function number one is the idle switch. It sends a signal to the ECM if the accelerator is in an idle position or in an off-idle postion. That is simply a switch. Function number two is the variable resistance "position" sender. As the pedal is depressed, the resistance is decreased (?). So in order to make a unit that could control the idle you would need a 5wire relay to switch the sensor to an off idle position, and a potentiometer to decrease the resistance and subsequently raise the signal voltage to the ECM. I believe this to be correct, but I'm really looking for some input from some of the techs.
CSAGrey,
How might I be able to set up that high tech "linear actuator" to work with my remote start?
Thanks Again,
Sean
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Did you check into this?
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/18-019-01.htm
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/18-019-01.htm