:
Bad connection should have used mine

Honestly dunno would start by checking connections... We never saw 40* here today Did have some snow though

 

That's kinda what I'm thinking but didn't know if somebody else had any ideas.

 

Hmmm... a loose connection would result in increased resistance. Which would susequently produce a lower voltage. I'll have to check my info on that, and see what would caus,e a spike... oh wait. If your grid heaters were cycling, as mine do often up here, you would see a fluctuation in voltage. Although you're feeding off a regulated 5v source. I don't know, I'll look into it.




Regards,
Sean

 

Grid heater cycles have little effect on my high idle. You can auidibly hear the loaded alternator, nut nothing more than at idle. Doesn't change the high idle but maybe 50 rpm...

 

Funny thing. If I keep my high idle at 1100rpm then nothing happens. It works perfectly. If I turn it up to 1200rpm it'll work great for a while and then start fluctuating. The grid heaters are kicking on and off at this time and you can definately hear the engine change noise. Today or tomorrow I'm gonna tear into it and see if I've got a busted resistor or something.

 

Question for anybody who'd be able to answer--would it cause any issues if I were to move the on/off switch to the +12v side of the relay coil? Reason I ask is, I picked up a nice looking rocker switch with built-in LED indicator, and if I were to wire it as shown in the schematic you guys drew up, when the switch is in the on position the LED would see a ground on both sides due to the internal configuration of the switch/LED, therefore causing it to not light up. I guess when it was designed they assumed it would not be used in a switched ground application. I don't see a problem with moving the switch to the positive side of the circuit though; does anybody else?

One other thing I'm wondering, and somebody else asked the same thing but I don't think an answer was ever given, but what's the deal with the resistor in the relay coil circuit? Is it necessary, and if so, what's the resistance value of it?

Thanks so much in advance for any help given...

 

Got a question concerning the idle validation switches on my truck--I've seen them represented a couple of different ways on the diagrams posted in this thread; so I wanted to know EXACTLY how they function before I wire the relay that is supposed to defeat them on the high idle box I'm building. So I removed the APPS from my truck and used an ohm meter to check for continuity between pins 1 & 6 (idle validation switch #1.) I don't recall the reading I got, but when I moved the bellcrank it didn't change. So I connected the meter to pins 1 & 2 (idle validation switch #2) and got the same results (no change when I moved the bellcrank.) At this point I thought maybe there was something wrong with my meter, so I applied +12vdc to pin 1 and checked with the meter set on dc volts between pin 6 and ground (measured 12vdc; no change when bellcrank was moved), then between pin 2 and ground (again, same results.) So apparently the idle validation switches on my truck don't function at all, even though there's been no malfunction indicator lamp or problems with driveability or idling. What gives here?!? If the switches aren't doing anything, is that something that could cause a problem for me? Not only am I trying to get this high idle box done but I'm also doing some travelling at the end of this month and don't want any trouble on the road. One more question--since apparently it doesn't matter that the switches are not working, do I need to even worry about the second relay to defeat them?

 

So who here has made up some of these things to buy. I havent been able to follow the thread too closely. I find it super interesting that you all discovered this and developed it into a working product. Let me know! Thanks in advance.

Tom

 

Just bringing this thread to the top of the list again...still hoping someone can enlighten me (see posts 246 & 247 above)

 

Anybody looking for a likely prototype candidate?

 

Doubtful; quite a few of these guys have already installed them which is probably why this thread has been basically abandoned since Feb. 16th besides you & me posting to it...I've got everything I need to finish mine including the connectors that plug into the factory harness and APPS but I'm not quite sure how the idle validation switches need to be wired into this; and since ECMs and APPSs are pricey items, I'm not open for much experimentation on my truck (just got done spending $2600 on new FASS & VP44.) Hopefully somebody will still see this & shed some light on it for me so I can get it done...

 

Update:
Just in case anybody sees my questions in previous posts to this thread, I did my own research and got my high idle box working & installed. Only problem now is when I turn the **** to too low of a setting, the MIL comes on, engine won't respond to any input from the accelerator pedal or high idle control, and it sets a P0121 code (APPS circuit voltage range problem). I'm guessing I'll have to do some tweaking on the trimpot inside the box and possibly an APPS reset...any other suggestions?

 

anybody still reading this thread. i would like to do this to my truck also. im confused about whether or not to go in cab, one relay or two, type of switch, wire gauge, etc.

any help?

thanx,
jason

 

In cab, 1 relay, single pole standard switch, 18gauge has been fine

 

thanx, i assume you did this in your truck, does it work well? did you use part numbers from previous posts? have you seen the job done by a member of cummins forum (installed in garage door opener overhead), and would you foresee any problems with that?

i am very green when it comes to electronics, so all the help and guidance i can get will help alot.

thanx,
jason