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APPS High Idler

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Old 01-12-2007, 11:36 AM
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It works as a cruise control in my truck. I got know MIL. I can only think one of us doing something different and doesn't know it. My only problem was I couldn't get WOT, not that it would be needed but it was the only RPM range I couldn't get to. Its because of the built in no varible resistance of the 2K resistors. It will not allow the ECM to see a full 5 volts.
Old 01-12-2007, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Cspotrun
It works as a cruise control in my truck. I got know MIL. I can only think one of us doing something different and doesn't know it. My only problem was I couldn't get WOT, not that it would be needed but it was the only RPM range I couldn't get to. Its because of the built in no varible resistance of the 2K resistors. It will not allow the ECM to see a full 5 volts.
Heck...as long as you can get to about 2200.....that is all i need.......this would be perfect for me.......now to start playing!
Old 01-12-2007, 01:55 PM
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Well actually it would get there eventually. Being that this only keeps a Throttle Position voltage, It won't act like your cruise control. Your cruise actually changes TPS voltage to maintain a speed, where as this will maintain a certain TPS voltage. so going up a hill you will lose speed and other things. Think of it as if you were driving around with that cool pic of the piece of lumber everyone loves to post when ever the High Idler subject comes up. Its not gonna change TPS voltage at all. So towing or driving on flatlands it'll work, but anything else and it will be useless as a cruise control. One of the numerous reasons I'm keep ing mine underhood and set at 1450 rpm to be a high idler only.
Old 01-12-2007, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Cspotrun
Well actually it would get there eventually. Being that this only keeps a Throttle Position voltage, It won't act like your cruise control. Your cruise actually changes TPS voltage to maintain a speed, where as this will maintain a certain TPS voltage. so going up a hill you will lose speed and other things. Think of it as if you were driving around with that cool pic of the piece of lumber everyone loves to post when ever the High Idler subject comes up. Its not gonna change TPS voltage at all. So towing or driving on flatlands it'll work, but anything else and it will be useless as a cruise control. One of the numerous reasons I'm keep ing mine underhood and set at 1450 rpm to be a high idler only.
That is exactly what i want.....i dont want the crusie to "Floor it" in the hills....i want a "Constant Throttle Position" I feel this would help some with fuel....well at least play whit it...some have used it with good sucess...but all the other ones were like tractor setups....mechanical......
Old 01-12-2007, 02:40 PM
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Cspotrun "I can only think one of us doing something different and doesn't know it."

That seems like a bit of a dig, I am not trying to argue or dis your design. I am simply asking a question of someone who seems to know more about this than I. ALthough I am not a complete idiot in any regard. I used a ohm meter to check my ohms and they were at roughly 11.97k ohms at the end of my extended wires and connector. I used bigger wire than needed to help offset the extension. The only change I made initially was I could not get the red led you speced so I subbed an orange one that had the same specs. Other than that I used your part numbers. I have admitted to using your design and your knowledge.

If this has ticked you off I apologize.

I am simply trying to either figure out what I did wrong or adapt your design to use as an in cab model. It should not be that difficult. As pcms are regularly placed in remote area to the engine compartment. I would hazzard a guess that even your design has wires that are a significantly different length than the wires from the apps to the pcm in your truck.

Yes it is obvious that I did something wrong/different compared to you. I am just attempting to recify that.

Diesel-dan you will need this knowledge too if you intend to use it as a cruise control as I assume you will want it mounted inside the cab.
Old 01-12-2007, 09:07 PM
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Just a thought but there is a wire purple in color just above the valve cover poking out of a wire loom that is labeled PTO on my pickup. Maybe this would help some on getting a higher idle than 1500rpm. I 'm glad I found this I would like to build 1 did you scotch lock onto the wires at the APPS?

Jed
Old 01-13-2007, 03:43 PM
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macjazzy-

No dig at all. Its one of those things I've come to realize, when two people are doing the exact same thing and getting different results. I actually did some more driving today and figured out it was me that was doing the something different.

The way I tested the "cruise" feature was to get up to speed and then turn on the unit. I left my foot on the pedal just out of habit. If I take my foot off of the pedal and then hit the unit it will throw a code. So like I said one of us was doing something different and didn't know it.

I'm also glad you got your setup working. I hope everyone can enjoy this design. I attached some of my finished design prior to install.
Attached Thumbnails APPS High Idler-100_3852.jpg   APPS High Idler-100_3854.jpg  
Old 01-13-2007, 04:00 PM
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Sorry I misinterpreted your comment. Sometimes it is hard to understand intent when reading something in a forum like this.

Again I do appreciate your sharing your design and research with us and I am very happy with my unit. It does just what I wanted it to do which is run my idle up to 1200 or so to allow for my cab to warm up on very cold mornings or to help with defrost.

I actually showed it off last night to another cummins onwer.
Old 01-13-2007, 04:05 PM
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This looks very cool and I'm most definitely going to try an in cab install. You guys have done a great job but could I bother for a quick wiring schematic? The shopping list is a great feature, going to print out the page and take it to radio shack!! Thanks guys!! I guess I can stop bugging Smarty now...
Old 01-13-2007, 09:50 PM
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bnold

The wiring schematic is on post 19. I followed with wire colors on post 21.
If your still having trouble lemme know and I'll see what I can't whip up for you
Old 01-14-2007, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Cspotrun
bnold

The wiring schematic is on post 19. I followed with wire colors on post 21.
If your still having trouble lemme know and I'll see what I can't whip up for you
Dont know how I missed it thanks!!
Old 01-14-2007, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Cspotrun
The way I tested the "cruise" feature was to get up to speed and then turn on the unit.

I am confused. You mention yours is under the hood but they you are testing the "cruise" feature, obviously from inside the cab?

Also you have a switch on the box, if it is under the hood, do you have to pop the hood to turn the idle on and off?

edit: I'm guessing you ran the ground into the cab and used a switched ground? If this is the case why have two switches?

What connectors did you use to tap into the APPS wires?

Thanks.
Old 01-14-2007, 05:17 PM
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I just tested it in the cab to see if it would work, for Dan and a few others. I have a switch on the box and one in the cab. The in cab switch is temporary. The remote start I have going in will handle the high idle feature. The switch on the box will be to turn it off. Mine is also wired right to battery power. It will use alot of power if you leave it on, so attaching it to an ignition power supply would be smarter. The connectors I used to attach to the APPS wires are Posi-Taps. I use them pretty much exclusively. they are great connectors and work perfect for tapping the wire on VP-44 trucks.
Old 01-14-2007, 05:32 PM
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Thanks for the info. I am just going to run one switch in the cab but the project box will still be under the hood.

I will have to grab a few of those posi-taps.

Thanks again for the info.
Old 01-14-2007, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Rhino
Thanks for the info. I am just going to run one switch in the cab but the project box will still be under the hood.

I will have to grab a few of those posi-taps.

Thanks again for the info.
Ya I was thinking the same thing ... Run a switch into the cab and keep the project box in the engine compartment... Then I would only have to open the hood in order to adjust idle speed... Man would be nice to be able to adjust idle in the cab ... Dang it maybe I'll have to find an in-cab location


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