Cspotrun

From everything I have read the resistance of the 2 resistors will be added. (i.e if the 10k POT resistor was all the way up and the 2k resistor was inline you should be getting 12k of resistance) So my guess is at 12k of resistance your at idle or nearly .5 volts. I know the sensor power is already at 5 volts so I guess I'm really just wanting to know if the 12k of resistance is needed to drop from 5 volts to .5 volts. I really would like to get some for sure answers on this as I'd like to get something going by this weekend or atleast play with a POTs on the signal side to see if I can make adjustments to the Idle circuit. But as you can imagine I don't wanna risk a 250-400 dollar APPS on this. Anyone with further insight on this??

Diesel-Dan

WELL the wires seem to tap into the harness. SO no modifications that (I feel) would cause any harm....as long as you keep + to + and - to -. If you happen to go out side those ranges, i bet all you would do is set an APPS code that could be cleared. I would use scotch locks to test with and then if it work, solder the connections in. BUT i didnt stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night sooo.........dont hold me to that! haha

Cspotrun

Well after much dicussion and research, I can't find a problem with this method. The 12k of resistance should bring the voltage from 5 volts down to about .5 volts. I'm going to try just installing the 10k POT and 2k resistor in series and hook that up to the APPS and make sure it all works. If it does I'll add the DPDT relay and associated switches and LEDs. Should have a working setup this weekend provided the weather holds up.

Diesel-Dan

Keep us posted....I got a bum weekend as well! haha......need to lash thoes valves though........

BUT maybe note some wire colors when you start tapping on the harness.....might be helpfull......(To confirm your post 21 on here)

Cspotrun

I'll make a note of all wire colors making sure they are correct with my orignial post #21. So far my FSM hasn't been wrong yet but there is always that chance. If my wiring and setup looks clsoe to presentable I might even take some pics.

Diesel-Dan

Where would be a good place to get all the items listed in here anyway? I dont do a lot of building my own electroincs, and Radio Shack has let me down as far as selection goes in the past........i think they are getting away from the "Do it your selfer" and pushing more prebuilt stuff.......well from the store i went to in Gainesville Texas at least when i lived there......

Cspotrun

I actually found it all at my local Radioshack. I mean all of it. DPDT relay, resistors, POT, the works. Other than radioshack you could try electric house like Grainger and Walker.

Rhino

I am anxious to hear if this works. I need a little project this weekend

Cspotrun

Just to let everyone know this works like a charm. I need to do a finish install on it but as far as functioning it works flawlessly. I got all the parts from the local radioshack, including the project box. Anyone who is interested in this setup can save alot of money over a BD setup. I have 23.64 total in this thing. Anyone questions post up so we can keep them all in the same thread. BTW my color combos on post 21 of this thread are all correct.

Rhino

Great!

Did you make any changes to the diagram posted above? Also exactly what wires/color wires are tapped into at the APPS

It looks like I have to make a trip to Radio Shack tomorrow

shawn085

PICS PICS PICS and a shopping list
I will go to Radio shack ASAP and do this. I have to replace the APPS in the next couple of days anyway.

Cspotrun

I'll get pics up after my final install.
Shopping list is below:

10K-Ohm Linear-Taper Potentiometer
Model: 271-1715 | Catalog #: 271-1715

Red LED with Holder
Model: 276-270 | Catalog #: 276-270

1K ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor pk/5
Model: 271-1118 | Catalog #: 271-1118

Toggle Switch with On/Off Label Plate
Model: 275-602 | Catalog #: 275-602

Project Enclosure (5x2.5x2")
Model: 270-1803 | Catalog #: 270-1803

12VDC/10A DPDT Plug-in Relay
Model: 275-218 | Catalog #: 275-218

To get the 2k resistance called for in the diagram I wired two 1k ohm resistors in series. The wires I tapped were pins 3, 4, and 5.
Colors were:
Pin 3 - Light Blue/Black - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Signal
Pin 4 - Black/Yellow - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Ground
Pin 5 - Dark Blue/White - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Supply

These color combos are for a 2001. I can't tell you what the other years are. Hopes that helps everyone. Also the Led has to be wired a certain way because it acts as a diode and only allows electricity to flow one way. I had to reverse mine. Just try it one time with 12 volts and a ground and the relay if it works then wire it up if the relay doesn't click then reverse it. Also I think its best to keep the box and resistor under the hood. As you add more wire to this your gonna add more resistance to the circuit. I picked that box cuz it can be waterproofed pretty easy. Plus I have enough stuff in my truck cab as it is.

Diesel-Dan

I also could assume that you could use this as a constant throttle switch as well for long HWY trips????? Now to get a brake pedal interrupt figured out.

Can you relay what pins #’s in relation to the diagram we have on post #19. From top to bottom? That would help me at least…….

This is sweet and thanks for testing it out for us! The part numbers are excellent!

Cspotrun

the only wire that matters is: Pin 3 - Light Blue/Black - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Signal. The others can go either way. Being that its a DPDT relay the connections will still get transferred and still gonna see voltage across the POT.

As far as testing making it a constant throttle switch for long trips, you're on your own for that. I put my box under the hood and am planning on leaving the POT set to 1450 rpm, for cold mornings. I suppose you could put the enclosure with the POT in the cab but your adding wire length and thus resistance to the cicuit. I do not know if you will need to make adjustments to the circuit to get ti to work as a constant throttle. Also I don't know if I would trust any of this to work my throttle in anything but park, or in your case all you need to do is wire the ground into your parking brake and neutral safety switches for your handshaker.

Diesel-Dan

AHHHH I see! Cool.....good point about the parking brake ground...that is how my turbo timer is triggered......BUT i might play with it for a constant thottle....but would want to figure out some sort of interupt for the system if i needed to stop......Do they make a ready made switch that shuts off and stays off when voltage is applied to it?