AHHHHH OK...i see what every one is talking about now. I cant put the POT in the cab due to resistance issues.......BUT isn’t this why we added the 2k resistor in the first place? Wasn’t enough resistance? If the added length of wire adds resistance.....couldn’t you just adjust the resistor to suite? OR just take it out all together? I need to get my electrical book back out about resistors and voltage relation......its been a while......

 

I'll have to get some books out as well been a long time... My guess is that that the extra length we are talking about will not change the resistance too much... As long as a decent gauge wire is used the POT should be able to make up the difference in resistance by just turning it up or down a little right??

 

You are exactly right. A larger gauge wire will have less resistance than a smaller gauge wire will. Its totally doable as I've ran it in my cab already. The only point I made was that I couldn't hit WOT. I was looking at a voltage of about 4.15 ish at the APPS. Not a huge difference. Also with the Smarty I have I'm having trouble getting a voltage that will stay under 1500 rpms. The programming on the smarty ramps up the TPS voltage soo much that it revs past 2k, sets a MIL, and then drops back to idle. You have to pump the pedal to get it to rev again. So it looks like, I'll be doing some idle switch investigation. Because I sure ain't taking off the smarty. I'll keep you all informed on the latest.

 

OK...i now get it....that is where you differed from the original design of the prints.....makes sense now........i just need to try it out and see for my self! haha....get some 10 ga wire for the POT in the cab......should be big enough! haha.....OK...maybe 12.......

 

Well this is of much interest... I'm a smarty lover myself!! Do we need more resistance in the line to bring the voltage lower when using the smarty?? My main concern is an extended high idle switch whether for warming up or letting idle with no washdown... That being said WOT is not a big deal for me just looking for adjustability from 1000 to 1500 RPM. So you are saying with the smarty software loaded that even with the POT trned all the way down so like .5or.6 volt output RPMs are going too high right?

 

I ran the whole thing, pot and all into the cab. I even installed an in line connector I got from radio shack so that I could take it out or move it easier if I ever wanted to. I used 14gauge wire from the box to the apps. I ended up with 1.56k ohms instead of the 2k from the original plans. I also mounted the extra resistors outside the box inlline so I could change them easier.

So for works fine, although no wot, but that was not what I wanted. I was also able to mount it in the next size smaller project box. It was tight but it worked. Its mounted using velcro tape to underside of dash in front of my shifter. Fits good

 

Actually the problem is with how the Smarty ramps up the TPS input. Basically when you hit the switch to override the APPS and your POT is trimmed to lets say 2.4 volts, the ECM sees that as a quick pedal input. that and with the ramping effect of the Smarty programming, gives you enough fuel to rev past 2200 rpms before the ECM sees that the Idle switchs are still engaged and pulls the APPS/POTs input out, and reverts to idle. So, my thinking is if I can find a lower idle like 1250 or 1300, it might not rev over 1500. If that isn't possible then I'm left with defeating the Idle switch, pulling the Smarty off (already did this to test my theory - It works with the Smarty off), or working out a way to slowly ramp up the voltage.

 

UM....is this the high idle the Smarty turns on? OR is this the Smarty its self? If its the high idle...it stays on..even in stock...this is how i got mine to work on cold days......tried a Smarty...

Never mind....its like that surge you get with the crusie control....

 

OK sorry I don't have one yet to test but what if you have your POT turned all the way down... Flip the switch and then ramp the POT up to desired high idle... Would that work so that the smarty doesn't give that extra punch in the throttle??

 

It would work, but I'm hooking all this up to a remote start. So for me it really defeats the purpose of making it a remote start. I'm actually even going as far as to install a automatic remote starter that will start the truck at a desired time M-F. I hate getting into a cold truck.

 

Sorry I've caught the tail end of this thread and it looks interesting,

I'm not an electrical genius so if yall don't mind answering me one question.

What would happen if you simply took a potentiometer and spliced into the APPS supply (5v) and ran the other side to the APPS signal (output).

I'm sure theres a reason it won't work it just keeps goin through my head.

Just thought it would be simpler to use the 5 or 6v supply that was already there instead of creating your own. And when the pot is all off it should go through the original circuit.

Like I said I'm sure theres somthin simple that I'm overlookin but that would be nice if it would work.

 

Just bringing this to the top for the evening crowd... Seeing if anyone else has any input... Have my shopping list in hand for Radio Shack tomorrow!

 

That's actually exactly what this does. The 12 volt input is to run the relay so that you are not always using that POT. If you didn't you would idle at what ever your POT was set at. Hope that helps.

 

Brian.....how did i know you would be on this one at some point?

 

Cause there is still room in the truck for more gadgets!!