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APPS High Idler

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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:40 PM
  #166  
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Well I tested the old pot and no matter which way I turned it the voltage would stay the same. So I bought a new one and tested it before installing it and sure enough it adjusted so hopefully it'll work tomorrow when I put it on.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:47 PM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by BigBlue
Well I tested the old pot and no matter which way I turned it the voltage would stay the same. So I bought a new one and tested it before installing it and sure enough it adjusted so hopefully it'll work tomorrow when I put it on.
Cool!! Glad you were able to figure it out!! Neighbors love the high idle almost as much as me!!
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 09:44 PM
  #168  
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What kind of Amps or MA's total would be going through the pot? I know it probably wouldn't be much, just curious. I've got a couple ideas already for another one. It would be able to fit in about a 1.5"x2.5" box.

I was wondering if a high idler could be made using a pot or something similar about a week ago. I found it kind of funny when I got on here and someone beat me to it. I'll have to give everyone some credit here, looks like a really good thought out design. I just got finished building mine tonight. Just tested it on the bench. Just need to install it now.

Thanks for all the good info. I really like projects like these.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 10:40 AM
  #169  
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Well I hooked it up with the new pot and with the new pot maxed out I can only get it to 900-950. What's the deal with this thing? All connections are soldered and tight and good, all the wires are in the right spot, I don't know what's wrong with it. Is it cause my APPS is maxed out in order to get it close to adjustment that it just ain't working?
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 10:47 AM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by BigBlue
Well I hooked it up with the new pot and with the new pot maxed out I can only get it to 900-950. What's the deal with this thing? All connections are soldered and tight and good, all the wires are in the right spot, I don't know what's wrong with it. Is it cause my APPS is maxed out in order to get it close to adjustment that it just ain't working?
Dont make me come down and fix it for you! haha......Talk to Brian...he will be at the dyno coming up right? I bet its something very simple that you just overlooked.......
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 11:05 AM
  #171  
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Yeah. That's what I'm gonna wait for. I'm hoping it's something simple. Apparently the box works since it's kicking it on and off it's just not working very well.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 11:24 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by BigBlue
Yeah. That's what I'm gonna wait for. I'm hoping it's something simple. Apparently the box works since it's kicking it on and off it's just not working very well.
With the box hooked up and the key on (truck off like checking APPS voltage)... What voltages are you seeing from the signal wire? That will tell you a lot right there... You probably want around .8V going to the signal wire.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 11:37 AM
  #173  
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Wow...

I'm impressed, over 170 posts. I'm sorry I've been out the loop for a while. I had/have some complications from a nerve repair sugery, so I've been kind of "limping" around projects lately. There was this lurking suspicion that if I posed the question and provided some applications that people would run with it.

I have to give plenty of credit to Mr. Darren White for his original concept, and I do believe he is still in the field for the production and sale of a ready to go plug'n'play idle controller. Last time I talked to him I was getting ready to make the molds for the housing. It was going to be a rapid prototyped housing, but now I think I'm going to go with a CNC'ed mold cavity. I should be about to shoot the housing and **** all in one shot, so maybe there could be just a "housing kit". I haven't given up on this, and seeing now that you guys have made some successful attempts my enthusiasm is restored... I just wish my hands worked .

I'll throw together another prototype here this weekend, and I'll post some additional pictures and try to detail the connections using different colored wires. Again, awesome job guys. I'll get cracking on the housings, although I've seen most have used the radio shack "project enclosures".

Sean
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 11:41 AM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by subdieselmech
I'm impressed, over 170 posts. I'm sorry I've been out the loop for a while. I had/have some complications from a nerve repair sugery, so I've been kind of "limping" around projects lately. There was this lurking suspicion that if I posed the question and provided some applications that people would run with it.

I have to give plenty of credit to Mr. Darren White for his original concept, and I do believe he is still in the field for the production and sale of a ready to go plug'n'play idle controller. Last time I talked to him I was getting ready to make the molds for the housing. It was going to be a rapid prototyped housing, but now I think I'm going to go with a CNC'ed mold cavity. I should be about to shoot the housing and **** all in one shot, so maybe there could be just a "housing kit". I haven't given up on this, and seeing now that you guys have made some successful attempts my enthusiasm is restored... I just wish my hands worked .

I'll throw together another prototype here this weekend, and I'll post some additional pictures and try to detail the connections using different colored wires. Again, awesome job guys. I'll get cracking on the housings, although I've seen most have used the radio shack "project enclosures".

Sean
Great... You guys are going to start 'designing' and make it all 'cool' looking and I'm going to be sitting here with my big'ol radio shack box...

Thanks for everyone's help... I am really enjoying mine!!
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 11:57 AM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by subdieselmech
I'm impressed, over 170 posts. I'm sorry I've been out the loop for a while. I had/have some complications from a nerve repair sugery, so I've been kind of "limping" around projects lately. There was this lurking suspicion that if I posed the question and provided some applications that people would run with it.

I have to give plenty of credit to Mr. Darren White for his original concept, and I do believe he is still in the field for the production and sale of a ready to go plug'n'play idle controller. Last time I talked to him I was getting ready to make the molds for the housing. It was going to be a rapid prototyped housing, but now I think I'm going to go with a CNC'ed mold cavity. I should be about to shoot the housing and **** all in one shot, so maybe there could be just a "housing kit". I haven't given up on this, and seeing now that you guys have made some successful attempts my enthusiasm is restored... I just wish my hands worked .

I'll throw together another prototype here this weekend, and I'll post some additional pictures and try to detail the connections using different colored wires. Again, awesome job guys. I'll get cracking on the housings, although I've seen most have used the radio shack "project enclosures".

Sean

i would be glad to beta test and/or purchase one when you make them. i am simply not the electronic guru that others are...i know this is out of my league, and id rather hook up the wires of a box thats already built.

sounds like a good idea tho. When i fiberglass my gauges into the top of the dash it looks like ill be adding switches for the high idler, and a 2WL. i love having all these gadgets. somewhere i have a turbo timer to install...but im too lazy and just want my tranny back in the truck for now.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 12:16 PM
  #176  
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Some Schematics

Hello again,

I was digging through some of my old information, and I came accross this. I think Darren realized the need for a second realy to send the "off idle" signal to the ECM. It simply incoporates a second DPDT relay to establish this. I'll keep working on this, and post what I have.

Sean
Attached Thumbnails APPS High Idler-high-idler.jpg   APPS High Idler-face.jpg  
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File Type: pdf
High Idle Switch 2.pdf (339.2 KB, 214 views)
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 12:31 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by bnold
With the box hooked up and the key on (truck off like checking APPS voltage)... What voltages are you seeing from the signal wire? That will tell you a lot right there... You probably want around .8V going to the signal wire.
I'll get back to you on that one. First I gotta go and sit through "Intro to supervisory management."
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 12:41 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by BigBlue
I'll get back to you on that one. First I gotta go and sit through "Intro to supervisory management."
Ya I got accounting and Consrtuction Cost Estimating today...
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 12:45 PM
  #179  
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I was just reading through some of these posts, when I saw that someone had a problem with the idler jumping up the idle too fast with a smarty. You can simply put a capicitor in the circuit to help with this. The capicitor takes some time to fully charge, and while its charging you would see a voltage change equivalent to slowly turning the **** on the pot. I'm not sure if this was addressed already, but since I have a fueling box I might look into it.

Sean
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 12:47 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by subdieselmech
I was just reading through some of these posts, when I saw that someone had a problem with the idler jumping up the idle too fast with a smarty. You can simply put a capicitor in the circuit to help with this. The capicitor takes some time to fully charge, and while its charging you would see a voltage change equivalent to slowly turning the **** on the pot. I'm not sure if this was addressed already, but since I have a fueling box I might look into it.

Sean
Good point...and man this thread, if i dont do anything else, is teaching me soooooo much on how i can rig up electronics.....

Tyler.....why dont you get your pops to take a look at your hack job?
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