Ok well did the install today and man the thing works awesome!!

I was concerned about all the talk about extra resistance from longer wires or smaller gauge wire etc...

I started by adjusting my APPS per BigBlue's post last week or so. I found my APPS voltage to be .438V where according to my APPS it is supposed to be .531. I was able to adjust it to .525 which I thought was close enough (was tired of running back and forth adjusting checking, repeat ). I then ran 10ft of 18ga wire from the apps plug to my idle box on the workbench (I figured10ft would be way more than I would use so if it worked at 10 it would work at less. Think I ended up using approx. 7ft??) I then ran the APPS test again and found that the extra wire caused me to loose .002V not that big of a deal to me... If I cared enough I could go and adjust the APPS to make it perfect; however, I figured it was a full 10th of a volt off before 2 thousants wasn't going to kill me

Started the truck flipped the switch all excited... nothing... Messed wit hthe POT some and still nothing was all .... Checked the dash and sure enough a code was set... Low APPS... Cleared it

Decided to go and check the APPS voltage with the high idle on (truck off) and set it to around .800V (figured that was a good starting pt)

Turned switch back off and started truck again.. Flipped switch and high idle is here

Was very weird changing engine speed with a ****, but it worked great!!

Big thanks to everyone who shared ideas and info on this thread!!

 

I like the location. Is it out of the way enough?

 

Very much so!! The pic is centered on the box so it looks larger... When sitting in the driver seat all I can see is the switch and LED... Fits like it was supposed to be there...

Yours is all ready as well, install at the next meet or you need it shipped?

 

I can wait. I'm a little older and more patient than you young whipper-snappers.

 

Now that it's all tested out, I'll have to pull together the parts and build one of these. Especially since my old high idle method died on me (but at least it freed up a switch for 2Low)

 

You ever get that hooked up?

 

Oh yeah, used it quite a bit this weekend. Makes it really nice for backing that short bale buggy under a bale. And with it being wet, I can back up most of the way in 2Low, then hit the switch to engage the front axle to get the buggy pushed all the way under.

 

cool glad it's working for you!!

 

Where exactly are you guys taping into the APPS wiring? Right below the APPS just above the power steering pump? I ask because it seems like it would be rather exposed there and the posi-taps are not exactly weatherproof.

 

I attached fairly close to the plug on the APPS... Just enoguh slack to fit below the cover without placing any strain on the wires. (Also if there was a problem I have enough extra to reconnect the wires). Also if worried I believe posi-tap has weatherproof versions.

 

Well I just tried to wire this little contraption up and it wasn't quite working. With the pot maxed out I could only raise the idle 50-100rpms. The relay is kicking on hard and the led is coming on so everything is working. I thought maybe I had to much resistance with the 2 1k ohm resistors so I cut one off and that didn't change anything. So I hooked up a volt meter to it and got some funky readings. With just the negative lead attached to the negative battery and the positive lead floating in the air and with the key turned to on but the truck off, the voltage was all over the place. Sometimes it would sit dead and then all of a sudden just start increasing on it's own. If you touched the pot nothing happened. As soon as you touched the positive lead to the signal wire off the APPS the voltage would die regardless of whether or not the box was on or off. I checked for codes and there were no codes and the APPS is still working. All of my connections are soldered and heat shrinked. I'm wondering if maybe the pot is bad.

 

You can check the POT real easy with a voltmeter. put the neg lead on one terminal and the pos on the other. Switch it to measure resistance (Ohms...symbol looks like an up-side-down horse shoe <-----for Tyler ) THen just turn the **** on the POT.....the numbers should go up and down when you turn it. ALSO you should have some built in resistance (2K IIRC) SO you should show some initial resistance.....2K worth.....

 

Thanks dan and yes I do know what ohm's look like. My dad is an electrical engineer. I've got a sneaky suspicion that the pot is bad by the way the voltage was hopping all over the place.

 

Your dad is the engineer.......you are......well......you.......

 

Yeah. I'm the guy that actually builds the dang thing instead of spending 4 hours analyzing it.