Transmission problem
I have done a number of searches and I can't find any answers.
My truck is also VERY sluggish right now.
It starts out in second gear and won't shift into overdrive. I can manually put it in first and it gets first gear. I am going to take it to the shop soon and have it looked at.
I replaced the negative battery cables, but it didn't help. I know my tranny is dying, but can I fix it and get some more miles before I have to rebuild it?
My truck is also VERY sluggish right now.
It starts out in second gear and won't shift into overdrive. I can manually put it in first and it gets first gear. I am going to take it to the shop soon and have it looked at.
I replaced the negative battery cables, but it didn't help. I know my tranny is dying, but can I fix it and get some more miles before I have to rebuild it?
More info would be a good thing.
Year, make, model to start.
Other than that, Welcome to the board, enjoy your stay, watch your wallet.
Sounds like limp mode which is usually caused by a bad govornor pressure transducer or sensor.
If you have a 2000 on up, you can retrieve codes by the key on/off/on/off/on method, they'll readout in the odometer window.
Often tranny codes don't show up this way though.
phox
Year, make, model to start.
Other than that, Welcome to the board, enjoy your stay, watch your wallet.
Sounds like limp mode which is usually caused by a bad govornor pressure transducer or sensor.
If you have a 2000 on up, you can retrieve codes by the key on/off/on/off/on method, they'll readout in the odometer window.
Often tranny codes don't show up this way though.
phox
You need to provide a bit more information to allow any real help.
But, as a general rule when the TPS on a 12 valve truck or the APPS on a 24 valve truck gets dirty or starts to fail the shifting will be erratic. It is also a good idea to check the throttle valve cable ends, both at the transmission and at the injection pump to make sure that the bayonette end has not failed or that the cable end has not cracked. Either of those situations will give the same symptoms.
The last item would be check the bands if the transmission has lots of miles. What happens is the fluid displacement becomes so great with seriously out of adjustment bands that it simply will not shift because it cannot build enough pressure in the valve body.
If I had an automatic on its last legs, I would read the technical article in the technical articles section of the header above, on the automatic and service it with tractor fluid and set the bands to specification and drive it. Most will last at least double what they did originally if that is done.
Also if you have done any power enhancements they will many times require the addition of a ballast resistor to the electronic governor type transmissions to get enough resistance from the APPS or TPS to allow the unit to shift properly.
But, as a general rule when the TPS on a 12 valve truck or the APPS on a 24 valve truck gets dirty or starts to fail the shifting will be erratic. It is also a good idea to check the throttle valve cable ends, both at the transmission and at the injection pump to make sure that the bayonette end has not failed or that the cable end has not cracked. Either of those situations will give the same symptoms.
The last item would be check the bands if the transmission has lots of miles. What happens is the fluid displacement becomes so great with seriously out of adjustment bands that it simply will not shift because it cannot build enough pressure in the valve body.
If I had an automatic on its last legs, I would read the technical article in the technical articles section of the header above, on the automatic and service it with tractor fluid and set the bands to specification and drive it. Most will last at least double what they did originally if that is done.
Also if you have done any power enhancements they will many times require the addition of a ballast resistor to the electronic governor type transmissions to get enough resistance from the APPS or TPS to allow the unit to shift properly.
You need to replace the governor pressure solenoid and sensor. These parts cost about $200 and are dealer only. They bolt onto the transmission valvebody and are easy to replace once you drop the trannie pan. Change the fliud and filter while you are at it - the solenoid is under the filter. Get it fixed soon as it is hard on the trannie to start out in second. Let us know how you make out.
Originally Posted by Wolfeman
You need to replace the governor pressure solenoid and sensor. These parts cost about $200 and are dealer only. They bolt onto the transmission valvebody and are easy to replace once you drop the trannie pan. Change the fliud and filter while you are at it - the solenoid is under the filter. Get it fixed soon as it is hard on the trannie to start out in second. Let us know how you make out.
DITTO! I thought you might have something hard to fix
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