A few weeks ago i picked up a WH1C turbo for a swap meet for 80 bucks the guy said it was from a 97 dodge ctd wheather its ture or not i dont care. i hear its omost the same as a HX35. so im happy putting it on. when i 1st tried it i was like this thing sucks it only made 10lbs of boost and took while to even get to 10lbs i pull into parking lot and relize dam i didnt make the wire holding the waste gate tiet enought there for looseing boost out the waste gate so back to home jimmy riged another tieter wire thing to hold the waste gate shut took it back dow the road and holy ten times better i was running 15lbs of boost with the H1C and now i make 22lbs of boost and did this under stock settings meaning i hav not touched my injector pump at all yet all i hav is K&N filter stock intake pipe and pretty much stock exhaust but i cut it just behind the cab. so i think for 80 dollers and got 7lbs of boost is a good deal plus it spools so much faster at pretty much all speeds lot better than the H1C.

so here are bucnh of pics showing H1C to WH1C and how to do it and some little tricks i ran into.

tools
3/8 ratchet
1/4 ratchet
1. 1/4 10mm socket
1. 3/8 11mm deep socket
15mm rench
19mm rench
9/16 rench
5/8 rench
1. 15mm stubby rench or an old one 15mm to cut inhalf
and some extentions for ratchets
parts
heres the parts on what u will need theses are all cummins part numbers

gasket turbo charger 3901356 $4.06
gasket oil drain 3937706 $1.86
seal O ring oil feed 3037236 $3.16
stud kit 3801888 $13.19

tools


intake pipe comes off

take off the clap holding the elbow to turbo houseing


theres one bolt that holds down pipe to tranny not sure if its the same on a stick truck but this bolt has to come off cuz the exhaust has to be pushed back just a little u will see later in another pic

2 10mm bolts hold the oil drain pipe

now on top there the down pipe clap,oil line and 4 15mm nuts that hold turbo to exhaust manifold

use 19mm rench for bottom part of oil line and 5/8 rench to undo the oil line fitting useing 2 renchs keeps the bottom fitting from turning and watch closely to see that the fitting on the oil line is not rusted together or else u will wreck the steel part of the oil line if it rusted spray WD-40 or something alone those lines to help it free up or just tap the oil line and fitting will turn

u may need the other oil fitting thats on the turbo to put onto the other one

 

theres a little Oring on that fitting change Oring if hard or cracked

undo exhaust clap

next undo the 2 little 10mm bolts for the oil drain line the little rachet works fine for this part


next start takeing the main nuts that hold turbo to exhaust manifold dont use long rench for this one nut it will be to long use it on all other 3 nuts. u can use stubby or like i used a 15mm rench cut inhalf be carefull not to brake the studs that are in the exhaust manifold or else ur happyness will drop so use lots of oil and when start turnning the nuts and they stop go back the other way to free them up more and then unloosen agin and repeat this till the nuts come off this trick wont brake the studs

use stubby rench

after all 4 nuts are off slide turbo off and u will hav a big open space

heres 2 pics of the turbos
the right one is the WH1C and left one is the stock H1C
the WH1C is little longer then H1C but its all good. clean all the gasket on the oil drain pipe and on the turbo make sure u can see metal so that when new gasket goes on it wont leak


u can see that the WH1C is little long thats why u undo the bolt on the down that attaches to the tranny see (pic above in the 1st post) just push the pipe back and slide the new turbo on

 

when u get turbo on dont slide it all the way on or else u wont be able to get this one bolt on leave a space just to put his one nut on spin on by hand and ur good to go for the other ones

when putting oil drain back on u can put the one 10mm bolt on closest to u on by hand the other one is hard to fit hand behind there so i put bolt in the stocket and sliped it in that way

put the oil fitting and oil line back on make sure u use the 2 wrenchs for this and make the oil line on a nice curve like it was b4 to prevent oil blockege

putting the intake elbow from turbo to intercooler pipes did not match up but all is good 2 ways of makeing it fit

1 is to undo the clap holding the elbow to stright part of intercooler pipeing

other is to undo the big round clap holding intake houseing to the turbo it self dont undo it much just enough to spin it to match up to that elbow

all is on double check all ur bolts make sure all is tiet its not good to leave stuff loose or it will cost u in the end and may cause you to hav a headach

i jimmy riged a clip and some springs and attached to the waste gate to hold it shut and the other end went to some hole that was on the inner fender i had another one b4 this but it wasnt strong enough and made me loose boost u can make ur own anyway u want just keep gate closed for full amout of boost

 

well all is done did some road tests,checked for oil leaks and boost leaks and double check around the motor for tools u may of left on motor cuz soon as u fire that rattle box up tools fall and stuff flys. all is good im a happy man for a cheap/kind of simply mod. this job can be done with normal tools.

 

Nice write up! covered everything!

The reason it spools so much faster is because the Wh1c has a 12cm exhaust housing and the Old h1c had a 18.5cm . Big diff. huh?

does it whistle more? i think wh1c's have a siliencer ring in them as well. like a HX35. BTW a wh1c was 94 and early 95 only. 95+ got hx35's.

 

Stickied as "Turbo R&R". Great pics!

 

You deffinatly got a WH1C, the distinct difference between the WH1C and an HX35 is the way the compressor housing is mounted on the turbo. Like the H1C it is held in place with that giant V-band clamp. The HX35 is fastened with bolts on the back side of the compressor housing. 94&95 were WH1C and 96+ was the HX35.
But nice job on the writeup! Where was that when I did mine?

 

Well you gotta watch 95's because we've had 2 95's here that both had HX35's but looked at a 95 the other day in a junkyard being parted out and it had a wh1c.

 

i put the parts and the numbers there at the top of the 1st thread

 

Crossy, I just got a HX40 off a buddy of mine. do these have a silencer ring too? Where is it? Does it make a big difference? Also, what should i do about the wastegate? i dont want it, how can i clamp it closed?

 

not sure if they have a silencer ring, but as soon as you take off the intake tubes, you will know. its a "cone" (for lack of a better word) that directs the air into the turbine, its held in with an o-ring, took 10seconds to remove and made a big diffrence in the sound of the turbo.

also, i have access to both a hx35 and a wh1c, what one would be best for my truck?

 

Aaahhhh, i did not know that was the silencer. thanks. also, i am in the middle of the swap. everything bolted up great except for the oil line on top. the male fitting on the line is bigger than the female fitting on the turbo. any suggestions??????

 

Nice write up well done, that should help out alot of the newer members here!

 

Swap the fitting from your old turbo.