My brain was idly wondering around this afternoon and settled on some questions that may not have ant definitive answers, only guesses. Here is what I was wondering;
It it were possible to find some suitable old fashioned (no electrics) injectors that could be physically installed into the head on a common rail Cummins engine and also throw out the CP3 and Heath Robinson a good, simple injector pump onto the engine, how would it run? How much power would be lost? Indirectly I am wondering just how much of a horse power advantage a modern, computer controlled, common rail diesel engine has over a simple diesel engine with zero electrics or electronics. Would the fuel consumption suffer that much?
Perhaps the mods above are equal to a 24 valve Cummins that has no electronics on the fuel system?
Then my crazy bran wondered if my truck would even run after an EMP bomb was dropped? For sure the first gens and probably the 2nd gens would run, but not so sure about the 3rd and 4th gens.
Crazy thoughts eh?

 

Never having seen a CR Cummins, I can't tell you definitively what you will need to convert. I can tell you your power and mileage will suffer. Think along the lines of a P pump conversion. Will the head except mechanical injectors or will you need to swap heads. Will a second gen 12 or 24 valve head fit on a CR block? Will the timing cover accommodate a mechanical pump or will that and the gear train need to be changed if even possible? And there will be a lot of other yet to be discovered modifications needed to do this. Is it possible? Maybe. Is it cost effective? Probably not unless you happen to have a doner sitting in the corner. Best option is to find a complete early 2nd gen engine and install that. There is information on this forum about P pumping 24 valve 2nd gen engines. That might be useful reading.

 

The 1st and the 12V 2nd gen Cummins should run fine after a EMP. The later automatically shifted trucks with an electric over drive and or even lock up will suffer the lost of those things.
The '98.5 up 24V and up Cummins trucks with the electronic TPS, two computers and stacks of relays my not run at all.

Heck if I park my 5 speed, 12V truck on a slight incline I do not even need a battery to start it up or to run it for as long as I have fuel in the tank.

 

Thanks coug. Your answer is sort of what I was expecting. Have no intention of ever modifying my engine like this, but was just idly wondering how much I would lose if I ever tried.
For years have wanted to get a old decent truck (no rust) and throw out all the factory electrics and instrumentation and start from scratch. My dream is to KISS the truck. Keep everything super simple, but working perfectly. Would even go as far as to install a dimmer switch on the floor. Anyone remember those? Want to fab my own dash with the instrumentation I like. The engine would have zero electronics but modified to the max power reasonably possible, Too busy right now to do this, but still sometimes in my head visualize what I would do. Dreams are cheap.
Have had the Kelderman airbags on all 4 corners of my truck for years and my dream truck would definitely have that too. Of course it will be Cummins powered, but not sure if it will be 12 or 24 valve. Definitely a crew cab 4 WD.

 

I love the dimmer switch on the floor.I have several old rigs with that feature.
They do tend to rust up and go bad, but they are great to use.

 

I really like the look of the second generation trucks. Is there such a thing as a 2nd gen crew cab with the Cummins?

 

From the factory the quad cab with the little suicide doors in the rear is the best they had.

I have seen several '94-'02 crew cabs that where built by shops back in the day that made some larger cabs with real 4 doors. They where not available through the Dodge dealers.
I only seen a few over all the years with my own eyes, Usually at a place like a big Mopar show like Carlisle.

 

Thanks for the info. Still slowly looking at all my options. In my neck of the woods see many 1st and 2nd gen trucks that look in very good condition, but no idea if they have a Cummins. No rust in this area.

 

Mine is an 01.5. Can't say the rear seat is that useable when you have a big guy like me in the driver's seat.

 

This is precisely why if I ever build my dream truck that it will be a crew cab. Anybody have have any idea how feasible it would be to take a 2nd gen cab and extend it to four full sized doors?

 

Like I said their where companies that did just that.

Doing the work yourself, unless metal fab is your job, would be difficult to say the least.

What would you use for the rear door? The floor? Making the rear door frame? The longer frame?
Those are just the start of the big hurdles to get over on a project like this.

 

I can do the work myself, but considering what is involved, would probably farm that part out. I have the same questions you just asked and am still casually looking for answers. It would probably be simpler to forget about the 2nd gen Dodge and start with a crew cab Chev or Ford and drop a 12 valve Cummins into it. Years ago saw a 6 door truck belonging to a work crew on a Texas train track and would love to get my hands on one of those.

 

Being able to do work yourself and building a rear door with working glass, door latches, hinges, ETC maybe two different things.
I have built a few '85 and earlier Dodge Crew cabs with the 12V. Little metal fab skill is needed to pull that off and the rear seat is nice and big.

Seems like the easiest way to get where you want without lots of custom work.

If you want to check out some cool metal work to build a 12V rig with room for the whole family. Check out the 4 door Ramcharger thread in the 1st gen section I just dragged up from the depths. At the end of the build thread is a custom built 4 door 2nd gen "suburban" style rig that sounds close to what you want. It may give you some ideas.

Or searching E-bay for a crew cab 2nd gen that has already been build, maybe an option.