Old Blue, W-350 Crew Cummins Project
#31
I have never used the eastwoods rust encapsulator, but I know a lot of people use the POR 15 stuff, with great success.
Personally I would clean it up the best I could then hit it with some brush on tremclad, (this is the canadian brand) the US stuff is called....Ummmm can't recall right now. I use it all the time and it works great for me.
Personally I would clean it up the best I could then hit it with some brush on tremclad, (this is the canadian brand) the US stuff is called....Ummmm can't recall right now. I use it all the time and it works great for me.
#35
Registered User
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have been working on the wrong blue pickup these days. Having electrical issues; new starter, alternator, vr, battery. You know fun stuff, and still have a short in the turn signals/flashers. Any way. Old blue is in the garage and getting ready to start body work. I have been using OSPHO to treat the surface rust; the stuff is doing it's job and at $28 a gallon it is a lot cheaper than Eastwood's. I am also getting ready to order body mounts and get that part done so I can start to long block and pull dents.
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Pulled the box off and replaced cab mount bracket this evening. With the body still half off, I started thinking about the transmission cross member. It is obviously easier to drill new holes and move it with the cab off, but I have a couple of questions before I do so. How far does it need to go back, 4 speed gasser to auto ctd? Also I saw a couple of guys make brackets for this and in effect not move the cross member at all; however, they were putting in 5 speeds, could this work with a auto trans? To make things more complicated I am now considering a getrag 360 conversion too, what can I do to not foreclose this option, as far as the cross member is concerned? Thanks for the help if there is anyone still following this thread.
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
Truck body is currently sitting on 4 inch blocks on the frame. This is giving me enough room to clean, paint, and undercoat the frame. Also this give me an opportunity to move the trans crossmember, but how far back does it go? I have an auto, does the cross member move back 3 inches?
#42
Registered User
Not sure on the placement of the rear tranny mount. I know it would be easier to drill with everything out of the way, but the only real way to make sure is to either get out the tape measure, or install the motor and tranny and then mock it up.
#44
Registered User
Remember to double, triple, quadruple check all your measurements.
#45
Registered User
Thread Starter
I am going to go with a plate and not move the trans cross member. It looks like it needs to move only 1 1/2 inches and that there is not much steel on frame to drill out. I have seen several of the swaps with manuals just build a mounting plate, i am sure it can be done with an auto. I will get some pictures up soon as to reinvigorate everyone's interest.