That would be Rustoleum. They have their own brand of rust encapsulator that Diesel Power used with some sucess. I would look into it.

 

I second POR 15. That stuff is great...buy a starter kit with some of the silver...it's super strong and super thick and super easy to install.

 

I saw that in Diesel Power, it looked like it worked well. I am looking at using the Rustoleum brand on my crews frame later this summer.

Mac

 

I am going to treat the surface rust with sulphuric acid. About $30 for a gallon. I will
post the results when I am done.

 

Sulfuric acid? I have heard of using phosphoric acid that converts rust to iron phosphate. I've never heard of using sulphuric.

 

Right, I misspoke. Phosphoric acid, like what is in a Coke. Thank you for fixing the confusion.

 

I have been working on the wrong blue pickup these days. Having electrical issues; new starter, alternator, vr, battery. You know fun stuff, and still have a short in the turn signals/flashers. Any way. Old blue is in the garage and getting ready to start body work. I have been using OSPHO to treat the surface rust; the stuff is doing it's job and at $28 a gallon it is a lot cheaper than Eastwood's. I am also getting ready to order body mounts and get that part done so I can start to long block and pull dents.

 

Pulled the box off and replaced cab mount bracket this evening. With the body still half off, I started thinking about the transmission cross member. It is obviously easier to drill new holes and move it with the cab off, but I have a couple of questions before I do so. How far does it need to go back, 4 speed gasser to auto ctd? Also I saw a couple of guys make brackets for this and in effect not move the cross member at all; however, they were putting in 5 speeds, could this work with a auto trans? To make things more complicated I am now considering a getrag 360 conversion too, what can I do to not foreclose this option, as far as the cross member is concerned? Thanks for the help if there is anyone still following this thread.

 

Truck body is currently sitting on 4 inch blocks on the frame. This is giving me enough room to clean, paint, and undercoat the frame. Also this give me an opportunity to move the trans crossmember, but how far back does it go? I have an auto, does the cross member move back 3 inches?

 

that looks just like my old blue but mine has a couple more dents lol

 

The crew or the regular cab? Both have their fair share of dents.

 

Not sure on the placement of the rear tranny mount. I know it would be easier to drill with everything out of the way, but the only real way to make sure is to either get out the tape measure, or install the motor and tranny and then mock it up.

 

I will get out the tape. Where are the best points to measure each truck so i get it right?

 

Motor mounts is where I would start. As long as they are the same and the cummins will drop onto the gasser mounts with no modifications. Then I would go from the center of the stud that bolts down through the frame mount and measure back.

Remember to double, triple, quadruple check all your measurements.

 

I am going to go with a plate and not move the trans cross member. It looks like it needs to move only 1 1/2 inches and that there is not much steel on frame to drill out. I have seen several of the swaps with manuals just build a mounting plate, i am sure it can be done with an auto. I will get some pictures up soon as to reinvigorate everyone's interest.