Hey Dieselgriz,

can you tell me where you found your 3.3T, please?

Thanks,
Pascal

 

Pascal,
I see your in Florida like me I started looking here:
http://wsl.cummins.com/ServiceLocato...ngeapplication
Find the one closest to you and give them a call. I talk to one and they were very helpful. If they can't help they can point you in the right direction. I'm not ready for the motor yet but, I have a number to call when I am ready.

Kirk

 

Great thread and info. Just read it from the beginning!
Question: Does Cummins or someone know if something smaller is available in the 2.0 to 2.5 L range that is turbocharged. If you guys can get ~40 mpg with this I wonder what a smaller mini pickup might be capable of.
I also have seen some of the older Mercedes 5 cyl, 3.0L, turbocharged engines around. Anyone had any experience with one of these?
Thanks for any input!
Tom

 

TRJ,

Cummins does make a A2300 that can be ordered to crank out 60hp, but I don't think it is as popular engine in that configuration. I am sure it is turbo'd. Most A2300 that I've seen are non-turbo'd or put out 45 or 50 hp.

Good luck

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

I bought my engine in Des Moines from Dan. It was the only one he had. There was one on Craigslist in Meade Nebraska for $4000. I don't know if it is still there. Good luck on finding one.

 

Thanks for the part number 3.3SONOMA. I'm will be going on vacation so I will talk to you when I get back.

 

Hi guys,

Hope all is well. This thread gets more and more interesting every month. As for me my machine is running great. I have cranked my F-150 maybe 5-6 times since I started running my YJ. I have seen around a $200.00 difference in fuel cost per month. I haven’t checked my mpg since the last time I posted (no speedometer, haven’t got it working yet.)

I have done some interior upgrades: Line-x the interior new seats and console, radio. It is a very comfortable quieter ride now!

95Z28A4 and TDI I heeded your advice and reconfigured my front mounts they are on top of the bushings now. When I built the mounts I also dropped the front of the engine slightly so my dipstick reads properly now. Thanks for comments.

I am now full speed into biodiesel. I have brushed little things aside with the jeep (get to them this winter) and have devoted time to figuring the best way for production. I am just as excited about this project as the YJ.

All you guys looking for engines it was hard to swallow the initial cost but it is turn key. In my case what would a new 4.o EFI cost if every component on engine was bought new from oil pan to ECU.

Does any one know the law on swapping engines? I have been told some horror stories about guys swapping the early GM diesels (350 platform) that came in cars and light trucks for 350 gas. A friend of a friend was fined by the feds for doing so.

Rebels….Should we re register our rides as diesel??

I have uploaded a few more photos.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25551533@N03/

 

For a small pickup conversion try a 1991 - 1995 Toyota (pre Tacoma) with the Volkswagen 1.9L TDI. An adapter is available to bolt the TDI to the Toyota 5 speed. The Toyota truck 5 speed is the "first cousin" to the AX15 used in the Jeeps. Check the link below.

http://www.acmeadapters.com/index.php?sound=Y


Previously, I had considered an early 1980's Mercedes OM617 swap into my XJ. The two biggest hurdles were:
The OM617 has a front sump oil pan.
The Mercedes transmission isn't overdrive, it isn't well suited to a truck/jeep application and OM617 transmisson adapters were not available.


Up until very recently, no adapters were available to mate the OM617 to a different transmission. 4X4LABS now claims to have an adapter available.

http://4x4labs.com/dieselconversions.shtml

http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...d.php?p=262207


Here's a link to some info concerning an OM617 swap from an OM617 owner. Read post #7.

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...7312#post47312

 

I'm glad to hear your conversion is producing significant fuel savings.

Emission/inspection laws and application of the laws seem to vary from state to state. What state are you located? In many parishes (counties) in Louisiana, OBDII vehicles require a plug-in inspection. After much research and telephone discussions with the DMV & Louisiana DEQ, I've concluded that making a 1996 & newer conversion legal in Louisiana is next to impossible. 1995 & older vehicles require only a visual and safety inspection. Hence, my choice of a 1995 ZJ.

There has been ALOT of discussion of this topic on www.4btswaps.com . I would be doing an injustice if I tried to summarize it in this posting,

 

I am in North Carolina my county does not require OBD II plug in inspection (YET). I have a 93 for the same reason (no OBDII). I should not have any problem, I am just curious.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N06

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N06/2218841998/
=============================

this is in response to a email i got

===========================-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Markis [mailto:chrismarkis@comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 8:19 AM
To: pdow@sbcglobal.net
Subject: MPG formula for B3.3T ?

Sorry to bother you
I believe you provided this formula to "tdiwyse" for his engine (?)

this would equal how much milage per hour? convert pounds to gallons and then figure out @ 60 miles per hour, for one hour? to figurre out roughly mpg !!?!!

I have to admit to you, I was never good at word problems. Any chance of converting it to a numerical formula? Can you also take a minute and do some examples at:
2000LBs
3000LB's
4000LBs

Thank you in advance,
Chris Markis
================================================== ==

See they give it in pounds and hour; and not gallons an hour on the picture and that’s what was confusing me!!

so if it is traveling at 60 miles per hour at 1400 rpm and the fuel
consumption rate is .345 for 1 hour; 60 miles in
an hour / .345 fuel consumed per hour = 173.9130434 mpg = 173.91 mpg

if I understand it correctly!!??
=====================================
since the motor was built to run a generator and not a vehicle. the they gave fuel consumption in ".345 lb/bh-hr @ 1400 rpm" so below is a related article on fuel consumption.

http://www.boatinglife.com/article_content.jsp?ID=10877

Calculating Fuel Consumption
By Brett Becker (more by this author)

Figuring out fuel mileage on a car is simple. Fill the tank completely, jot down the current mileage and drive until the tank is near empty. At the next fill-up, note the miles traveled and the gallons of fuel it takes to refill the tank. Then divide the number of gallons of the second fill-up by the miles traveled.
It's a different story with a boat. Miles aren't easy to measure on water, so fuel consumption is measured in gallons per hour. You measure fuel efficiency in pounds of fuel used per horsepower developed per hour. The pros call it "brake-specific fuel consumption." This makes it important to know that gasoline weighs about 6 pounds per gallon.
On average, an in-tune four-stroke gasoline engine will burn about 0.4 to 0.45 pounds of fuel per hour for each unit of horsepower. Likewise, a well-maintained two-stroke outboard burns nearly 0.6 to 0.8 pounds of fuel per hour for each unit of horsepower it produces. These figures apply to carbureted and fuel-injected engines, but not to direct-injected engines such as Mercury's OptiMax and OMC's FICHT models.
Confused yet? Look at the mathematical examples below that show the figures for a 50-horse engine, and it should become clear.
Keep in mind that these formulas apply when the engine is making peak horsepower, which usually is near wide-open throttle. Fuel consumption will be decreased at cruising speeds. Also remember that newer engines with loop-charged intake systems, fuel injection and direct injection will yield higher fuel efficiency than older, cross-flow fuel systems that were manufactured as late as 1990. Cross-flow systems are antiquated and wasteful compared with the technology available today.
To apply these formulas to your boat, just plug in its horsepower rating and multiply the top, then divide the result by the bottom. For two-stroke engines, another way is to take the total engine horsepower and divide it by 10. As you can see, this formula is simpler to calculate and easier to remember. You don't even need a pencil and paper. It's just not as accurate as the formulas above. The result represents the approximate gallons per hour the engine will burn at wide-open throttle. For example, a 150-horse engine will use about 15 gallons per hour. Though these figures represent averages and can vary from 10 to 20 percent, they'll put you in the ballpark so you can plan a long-distance cruise.




http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_much_d...sel_fuel_weigh



From WIKI ANSEWRS
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_much_d...sel_fuel_weigh


Determining your vehicle's gas mileage is very simple in this age of trip odometers*. Here's how you do it:

Step 1: Fill your fuel tank. Let the pump run until it shuts off automatically. Do not top off, because that adds to air pollution and wastes a small amount of fuel.

Step 2: Sit down in the driver's seat and zero out the trip odometer. Check your owner's manual for instructions.

Step 3: Drive your vehicle until you think you need to fill the tank again.
Fill the tank, letting the pump run until it shuts off automatically. Get a receipt that shows the number of gallons.

Step 4: Check your trip odometer and record (or remember) the number.


You now have two numbers: The distance traveled and the number of gallons consumed. To calculate fuel economy, divide the first number by the second.

MPG = distance traveled ÷ gallons consumed

This number is reported (in the USA) as "miles per gallon."


Example

1) It took 27.7 gallons to fill your Hummer II. You've driven 293.5 miles since your last fill-up. Your gas mileage is calculated using the formula

MPG = 293.5 ÷ 27.7
Your fuel economy = 10.6 MPG (miles per gallon)

2) It took 13.2 gallons to fill your Honda Civic Hybrid. You've driven 551.8 miles since your last fill-up. Your gas mileage is calculated using the formula

MPG = 551.8 ÷ 13.2
Your fuel economy is 41.8 MPG (miles per gallon).




If You Live in the Metric World

Many countries that use the metric system report fuel consumption in liters per 100km instead of fuel economy in terms of mileage. Lots of people in the US are a little hazy on what a kilometer is, though most now know what a liter looks like, thanks to two- and three-liter bottles of soda. For all of us, here's a handy conversion factor:

MPG = 235.2 ÷ (liters per 100km)

Example:

Your Bentley consumes 21 liters of petrol per 100km of driving. To convert to miles per gallon:

MPG = 235.2 ÷ 21
Your fuel economy is about 11 miles per gallon.

Should you need to convert miles per gallon to liters per 100km, divide that same magic number (235.2) by the fuel economy in MPG. The Honda (above) consumes 5.63 liters per 100km, the Hummer, 22.2 liters per 100km.

 

please correct me if i am wrong or incorrect!!

 

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1121/...3656be.jpg?v=0

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1121/...c038769f_o.jpg

 

Agree with the gas mileage figures except I fill right up to the spout in my Ram as it's worth 80-100 extra miles of range from "when the pump kicks off".

It takes extra time at the pump but it's worth it down the road!

 

Hadn't seen it done before I did this a couple years ago, but this is what I came up with . . . .

I had made an excel spreadsheet that calculated required hp for a given velocity based upon the published Cd*A info for my YJ, and an estimate of rolling resistance, and calculated for different velocities. Then I used an estimate of drivetrain loss to get how much hp the engine is required to produce to maintain a certain velocity. From this info and the published BSFC you can calculate how much fuel the engine needs to produce this amount of hp. Since you know you velocity and fuel usage you can then calculate mpg's. I'll admit there's some swag in the estimates I used for rolling resistance and drivetrain loss, and also assuming the stated BSFC for a given rpm is still valid when not a full load. The VW TDI has a great plot of BSFC across rpm and engine loads which is much more accurate for this type of analysis. So my calculations are approximate. From my spreadsheet it looks like to go 55mph I need ~18 hp to overcome wind drag and I'm assuming ~12 hp for rolling resistance. Assuming 85% drivetrain loss then means the engine needs to produce ~(12+18)/0.85~35hp. From this hp requirement you can get the weight of fuel per unit time. Assuming diesel weighs 7 lb/gallon you then get gallons/unit time. From your velocity you then get distance/gallon. Kinda of involved and requires some assumptions but gives an idea of where things should be . . .