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B3.3T Jeep YJ

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Old Jun 15, 2009 | 11:07 PM
  #781  
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Guess I should have looked at the AX15 a little closer...I assumed it had an OD of .73 like the NV3550 that replaced it. 95Z28A4, you are correct that the overdrive and axle ratios will effect my choice. The axles in my BII won't have as high a ratio as the jeeps (3.08). My axles will come from an early explorer (a bolt in upgrade) which only went as high as 3.27 or 3.55's. I am hoping to fit 31's under the truck as well. IIRC the NV3500 and NV3550 are about the same weight so it will come down to flywheel and adapter weight.
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Old Jun 16, 2009 | 07:06 AM
  #782  
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Hey 95Z28A4, any updates on your project?

Anyone else out there got some results to share?
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:30 AM
  #783  
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Originally Posted by Tav
Guess I should have looked at the AX15 a little closer...I assumed it had an OD of .73 like the NV3550 that replaced it. 95Z28A4, you are correct that the overdrive and axle ratios will effect my choice. The axles in my BII won't have as high a ratio as the jeeps (3.08). My axles will come from an early explorer (a bolt in upgrade) which only went as high as 3.27 or 3.55's. I am hoping to fit 31's under the truck as well. IIRC the NV3500 and NV3550 are about the same weight so it will come down to flywheel and adapter weight.
FYI. Both the Chevy & Dodge NV3500 have 0.73 OD ratios. The Jeep NV3550 has a 0.78 ratio.

The 8.8" Ford Explorer axle can be geared to 3.08. Before making a gear selection, you may want to consider axle ratios available for a SFA conversion.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 04:52 AM
  #784  
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Originally Posted by TDIwyse
Hey 95Z28A4, any updates on your project?

Anyone else out there got some results to share?
Nothing major. I'm working on a block heater plate similar to Macet's. My brother is machining a 3/4" pipe coupling and will finish it later this week. I can then weld it to the 1/2" mounting plate I made and return to him to true the gasket face. I bought a 1.25" butt weld tubing cap off ebay for $4. He is machining the cap ID to 1.080". I will use this piece to cap off the turbocharger oil drain after I cut off the lower oil fill spout. I can't justify spending $122 for the oil drain tube without the spout.

At work, I'm presently involved in a PHA (process hazards analysis) for an ethylene oxide operating unit. This PHA along with my rental property is taking a large portion of my time.

.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 08:07 AM
  #785  
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My project is going kind of slow, but i am still working at it. I purchased a advance adapters ax15 to chevy small block adapter with the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, slave cylinder, clutch fork and bolts off of ebay. I also have the motor mounts ordered and they are supposed to be here this week. I think I am going to run the Terminator transmission in my jeep. I have not puchased it yet. I am also thinking about cutting down suburban axles for the jeep.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 08:11 AM
  #786  
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I almost forgot to mention that I bought a parts engine for $150 bucks that I was able to salvage some good parts off of.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 06:43 PM
  #787  
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Originally Posted by dieselgriz
I almost forgot to mention that I bought a parts engine for $150 bucks that I was able to salvage some good parts off of.
Do you have the turbocharger oil drain tube? The tube without the oil fill spout? I'm interested in purchasing it. I've attached links to pics of Macet's B3.3T for reference.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2555153...33138/sizes/l/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2555153...02975/sizes/l/


.
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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 06:59 AM
  #788  
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95Z28A4
I will have to look and see if it is on there. I will look tonight and let you know tomorrow if I have it.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 06:48 AM
  #789  
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95Z28A4
I looked and I do not have that tube. Sorry I couldn't help you out.
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Old Jun 19, 2009 | 07:39 AM
  #790  
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Thanks for checking. I'll proceed with my plan to cut and cap the tube that I have.

.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 12:23 PM
  #791  
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Where did you find a "Parts" enging for $150? I would like to have that fall in my lap!
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 08:13 AM
  #792  
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cj-10a
I just found it at a engine rebuilding shop that they had picked up from Cummins.
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 09:50 AM
  #793  
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TDIWyse, you mentioned earlier that you had to raise the engine mounting by 1 inch over stock and add a 1 inch shackle lift to clear the suspension below.

I also looked at your flickr pics for the hood cutouts to get it to close. It looks like what hits is the top of the fuel filter (or whatever that big canister up high in the front of the block is) and the top of the Turbo and plumbing.

If I do my project, my wife doesn't want me to cut into the hood. The caveat is that the Jeep currently has a 4 inch shackle lift. Thoughts/opinions?
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 01:10 PM
  #794  
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I'd recommend keeping your wife happy. Happy wife, happy life.

Think I had 1 inch longer shackles which gave ~0.5" of extra lift. And I also originally had front leaf spring helpers. Along with longer bump stops to keep the pumpkin from hitting the oil pan. I've still got the longer shackles on the rear but put in a set of 1.5" lift front springs and returned to the standard shackles and no longer use the front leaf spring helpers. This combo kept the front height almost exactly like it was and improved the ride quality a bit. Did this about 1.5 yrs ago I think. Don't know if I had mentioned this at the time or not.

I had to cut the hood for the filter and the crossover turbo pipe even before adding the intercooler. The fuel filter in the stock position was the highest point. I thought you get about 1/2 the length of shackles for lift. If you've got 4 inches of lift (are they 8 inch longer shackles?) then I think you could setup the engine without cutting anything. If your shackles are 4 inches longer than stock I think you only get ~2 inches of extra lift. Even at this point you might be close to getting by without cutting anything. I think some of the others have repositioned the fuel filter so it's not sticking up so high which would also help.

Originally Posted by RyanD1981
TDIWyse, you mentioned earlier that you had to raise the engine mounting by 1 inch over stock and add a 1 inch shackle lift to clear the suspension below.

I also looked at your flickr pics for the hood cutouts to get it to close. It looks like what hits is the top of the fuel filter (or whatever that big canister up high in the front of the block is) and the top of the Turbo and plumbing.

If I do my project, my wife doesn't want me to cut into the hood. The caveat is that the Jeep currently has a 4 inch shackle lift. Thoughts/opinions?
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 04:47 AM
  #795  
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Originally Posted by RyanD1981
If I do my project, my wife doesn't want me to cut into the hood. The caveat is that the Jeep currently has a 4 inch shackle lift. Thoughts/opinions?
Originally Posted by TDIwyse
I had to cut the hood for the filter and the crossover turbo pipe even before adding the intercooler. The fuel filter in the stock position was the highest point. I thought you get about 1/2 the length of shackles for lift. I think some of the others have repositioned the fuel filter so it's not sticking up so high which would also help.
Ryan,
Lowering the fuel filter should not be a problem. My QSB3.3T came from Cummins with the fuel filter bolted directly to the intake and set back from the front of the engine. Check the flickr link in my signature for pics. I've also attached a link to Mooktank's blog. Mooktank installed a 85 HP B3.3T in a 2 door 1995 Explorer. The filter on his engine is in the lowered position.

http://mooktank.com/?cat=4

If you use a front mount intercooler and reconfigure the intake tubing accordingly, you can probably raise the engine for axle clearance without cutting the hood. The link below is to a cummins 4BT converted TJ. I think this guy used an intercooler from a 4BT Chevy P30 van.

http://web.mac.com/my96z28ss/Jeep/Welcome.html


TDI,
That is correct, the amount of lift is approximately equal to 1/2 of the increased shackle length.

.
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