Well, I have started down the road. I bought Mooktank's extra engine this weekend. It will need a full rebuild, but the price was right. Anyway, I've been trying to find a part number for an overhaul kit, but have not had any luck. Cummins Quickserve site leave something to be desired. Can anyone give me a bit of direction on this one?

Thanks,
Pete

 

I'm pretty much done with my conversion but I now have low oil pressure when warm... I guess that's what I get for buying an unknown condition engine. I'm going to check my sending unit to verify then it may go into the cummins service center. I may be searching for a new engine or a rebuild kit. As jeepinpete says it seems parts are tough to find.

Anyway I have a bunch of pics up on my site showing the header and accessory system I built. Besides the low oil pressure I love the thing. With a cat and muffler it's nice and quiet and my steering and brakes are great. I have a small vacuum pump running the HVAC and 4x4 but those are not working at the moment since I have a leak.

What a smooth running engine though!

Thanks TDIWyse for all the help and I actually got a pilot bearing by measuring the shaft and the ID of the cone adapter. It was like $6 from some bearing depot. Metric stuff...

 

Good stuff.

How low is your oil pressure when warm? My oil pressure is significantly lower when it's summer and fully warmed up compared to at cold start. Summer, warmed up, idle I see ~25-30 psi. Winter cold starts are ~120 psi. This is with 5w-40 synthetic oil and on my mechanical 150psi max oil pressure gauge.

Also played with the wastegate a bit this past weekend. If you loosen the lock nut and shorten the length of the shaft going from the pressure diaphragm to the waste gate it appears you can effectively increase your max boost without totally disengaging the waste gate. I added ~3 psi to max boost by tweaking the length a bit.

 

Copied from Cummins Engine Performance Data Sheet for QSB3.3T FR30231:

Lubrication System

Nominal operating oil pressure: @ minimum low idle - 31 psi, @ maximum rated speed - 78 psi

Minimum engine oil pressure for engine protection devices: @ minimum low idle - 7.1 psi

Maximum oil pressure spike on cold engine: 135 psi

Maximum lube oil flow to all accessories: 1 gpm

Maximum oil sump temperature: 248 deg F

 

Hi guys,

Mook, good job, where are those pics?? About finding parts it will get better. We are before out time you will be seeing more of these little engines in the near future.

 

What does THAT mean?!?! You must have some juicy bit of information . . .

 

http://mooktank.com/

 

I got to hear Mooktanks Explorer running while I up there, and I was quite impressed at how quiet the engine is, even without an exhaust system. The vibrations at idle seemed a notch or two higher than my old TDI Jetta, but no issue at all. I'm hoping I can scrounge up all the parts necessary to rebuild this engine, since there is no way I can afford to buy a new one.

Pete

 

I'm still collecting parts. I've decided to use the AX15 with the Dakota 3.9 bellhousing instead of the Dodge NV3500. Cruise RPM will be 1850 with 235/75/17 tires and 3.07:1 gears instead of 1700 with the NV3500. I've had very good luck with the AX15 in my old 1995 XJ. It seems to be smoother shifting and more reliable than the NV3500. According to the specs, the AX15 isn't as strong as the NV3500, but many will argue otherwise. If I grenade the AX15 behind the QSB3.3T, I have the option of http://www.rsgear.com/terminator.asp . RSGear claims 345 lb/ft rating. The 6 speed Getrag 238 in the 2005+ Dakota and Ram 1500 may also be an option.

I purchased an AX15 from a 1996 XJ with 3K original miles and a NP231J from a 1999 XJ with 28K original miles. I plan to install a slip yoke eliminator kit in the NP231 before installation.

My question for today is: What "size" is the V-band clamp and flange for the turbocharger exhaust outlet? Does anyone have a manufacturer and part number they can share?

 

I finally uploaded some pics to flickr. I added the link to my signature.

I started mocking-up the accessory brackets. Looks like I'll have to change my plans for the alternator. I had planned on a 1997 ZJ 4.0L 136 amp, but I don't think it will work. I'm thinking the 136 amp alternator from a 2004-2007 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi will be better suited. I'll have to check with an alternator shop to find out if modifications must be made for it to work in the ZJ.

 

All Cummins pn's all 3" dia

3905079 90 degree unplated steel
3910993 90 degree aluminized steel
3903552 stainless 40.5mm
3282938 stainless 20.0 mm

3910990 steel 40.5 mm

All use 3903652 v-band clamps

I would price all I know here 3905079 was 125.00 it may differ from distributor to distributor

I use 3903552. works nicely. Also think of using a small section of flex pipe to keep stress of the turbo to a minimum.

 

Nicely done photos. Looks like you have a great workshop as well. Looking forward to hearing more updates from you.

 

Thanks, The shop is still under construction. I still have to complete the bathroom and finish the electrical. I usually work on my shop on my 1/2 days off and work on my rental property on my full days off. The 1/2 days off are when I transition from day shift to night shift or night shift to day shift. I hope to have the rental property ready for the drywall contractor in about 2 weeks. I do a lot of things, but drywall isn't one of them.

 

Thanks for the info, but........I'm confused. 40.5 mm & 20.0 mm is a measurement of what? Does Cummins sell just a stainless steel flange that I can weld to a stainless 90 ell?

 

40.5 and 20 are lengths. They are all cold drawn steel no stainless. Checked specs. sorry