FYI,


1984 Chevy Camaro with 305 engine for 153 tooth flywheel does not work with the AA adapter. The flywheel bolt pattern is different and is made for a larger crankshaft. I'll return the flywheel and clutch kit and take the AA adapter into the parts store. I had to special order the Camaro setup and could not make a fitment until the flywheel arrived from FEDEX.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

***This information is corrected. The manufacturer put the wrong flywheel in the box. I still don't know if a 1984 Camaro 305 flywheel will work or not since I went with a 1982 Trans AM 305 engine setup with flywheel and clutch kit***

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

That's good to know. Thanks for sharing that lesson learned.

 

Chrysler also had a team of engineers designing their mounting system. And the chassis under those trucks are made to support the weight. I didn’t feel comfortable putting all the weight of that engine and a portion of the tranny weight on two mounts. Also you have to think about G's. If I have a doubt about something I overkill it. It may be redundant but I don’t have to worry about it. Don’t get me wrong one mount will work, I want a little reassurance.

Four mounts sure makes it easy to remove a tranny. I had to take mine out Tues. I just dropped the belly pan and let the engine tranny and transfer case hang. I had it out in an hour, another pro for me.

 

What's up with the tranny? How many cables/wires/etc were involved in getting the tranny out?

 

The tranny is remaned fith gear has an issue it is going back for repair. I am a little upset over it. Has a year warranty. I just had to take off the drive shafts, t-case, slave cylinder, shifter,the vss is not wired yet. It was a breeze. I could get to everything with the belly pan off.

 

That sucks. Sorry to hear that. I thought maybe you were doing some clutch dumping burn outs

 

I wish!! I should send it back in pieces.


TDI, 3.3S
How many holes are there in your PC adapters and Chevy bells not bolt holes but spaces large enough to get dirt / dust in?

I am just wandering because I read somewhere that these starters are not made to be is heavy dust dirt. I am thinking about enclosing mine. There is a pretty big gap in mine between the SAE 4 adapter and my spacer this is at the bottom of the engine so I could scoop up mud or sand very easily, also there is an area left open for the starter on my 3.9 housing. I may go ahead and fill some of these holes in. What do you guys think?

 

I didn't like the gap from the ring (I think it's there for automatic transmissions because you have to reach in at some point to finish connecting something) and cut some simple thin, plastic pieces and screwed them into the ring to cover up the gaps on both sides. Also added a little caulk to seal it.

The AA bellhousing didn't come with a rubber boot to cover the opening for the clutch release lever that goes inside to the throw out bearing. I had an old rubber boot from something else that I put on. It doesn't fit perfectly but it's much better than the large opening that was there.

 

Macet,

AA states dust and debris will have a hard time entering the clutch arm opening. AA suggests a small rubber flapper screwed to the outside of the bellhousing to cover the opening if you anticipate water hazards.

TDiwyse, I like your idea of closing the PC ring gap with plastic. I guess the AA dust cover doesn't seal the PC ring gap. I haven't installed my bellhousing yet. I might weld a piece of sheet aluminum to the ring to cover the ring gap.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

What's your welder of choice? Do you have something special for welding thin aluminum?

 

My memory might have been off a bit. Found a couple more references to reduced hp, fuel economy with straight biodiesel in Cummins engines.

Table 3 from this report shows an average reduction for their tests of ~ 10% in hp/torque and 13% in BSFC.

http://www.biodiesel.org/resources/r...01_gen-156.pdf


This report shows ~14% reduction in BSFC (Table A-3).

http://www.nrel.gov/vehiclesandfuels...pdfs/37508.pdf

 

TDIwyse,

MIG welder. I'll need to prectice first. I watched a MIG training video where the trainer welded two pieces of aluminum foil together, very fast

Hey thanks for the dyno info - it is great.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

I think fabricating a "dust shield" is a good idea, but I'm not sure "sealing" the gap is a good idea. Most of the "dust shields" that I've seen have a drain hole of some type. The hole, albeit small is to prevent fluids from accumulating and building a liquid level inside of the housing; whether it be from an oil leak or water intrusion

 

I have one of these. Awesome machine.

 

That's a good point.

The transmission on my jeep has 'dripped' since I got it. The fluid seems to weep out of the AX-15 to bellhousing connection point. It seems to virtually stop in the winter and return in the summer. As I recall the bottom of the AA bellhousing does have a tiny hole on the bottom up towards the engine side which may be there for this type of thing, but the fluid seems to weep out the back connection. I don't recal seeing it weep out the bottom hole toward the front.