Nice. I'm such a hack welder it's pathetic. I should really take the time and go to a class somewhere.

 

It just takes practice. If you have the patience and time. I took welding classes in jr high, high, and college.

My biggest problem is that I weld so infrequently, my welds are inconsistent, until I'm nearly finished with the project.

Tony

 

Hey guys,

I am having a problem finding a flywheel to fit my PC adapter cone. Does a 153 tooth fit or do I need a 168 tooth? None of the 10.5 inch (153 tooth), manual transmission flywheels would fit. The crankshaft holes were too big and the mounting holes don't line-up. The diameter on my flywheel cone is 2 inches. The automatic transmission flexplates mount. Was I suppose to order a different adapter cone from PC or do I need to go with a 168 tooth flywheel?

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

Don't know if this will help you or not, but from all the way back at post ~219.

 

I'd be interested to hear of any progress on the A/C?

 

I got the double crank pulley installed last weekend. Wasn't to difficult since I
already had the radiator out. I was having issues with running warm in traffic
so I replaced the stock radiator with a universal Griffin radiator. The hose inlet and outlet are now on the correct side for the engine.
Back to the A/C. I bought a Sanden 508 compressor out of summit with a v-belt pulley on it. I now have to make mounts for the compressor. I am going to install it above the fuel pump on the intake side close to where the fuel filter originally sat. I have already had lines made so it is just a matter at that point of connecting everything back up and charging the system.

 

Neat. Please keep us informed. So it sounds like you moved the OEM filter. Did you eliminate it or just reposition it?

 

I took the tall standoff off of the filter and mounted it directly to the intake manifold. I cut the hard lines and put different fuel line in place. I am going to have to move it again to get the A/C working just haven't quite figured out where yet. This is the only fuel filter I have so I need to keep it.

 

Found this company that makes a/c kits for the Komatsu WA65 loader which uses the Komatsu 4D95 engine which is similar to the B3.3.

http://www.hammondac.com/

If you look at their PDF catalog, they have universal compressor mounts and also have a hydraulic a/c compressor. I don't know if they will sell the 4D95 mounts seperately or how the compressor mounts to the engine block. They are the manufacturer and have a dealer network.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

FYI,

Found a flywheel. It is from a 1988 Camaro. Thanks TDIwyse. It seems that after 1986, Chevy changed the bolt pattern to 3 inches which is the same as the automatic flexplate bolt pattern that PC uses.

Hard lesson learned - stick to what works

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

Ok,

got the flywheel situation resolved. I want to test the engine on the stand to see if the main seal leaks before I attempt to put in the Cherokee. Of course I won't run it more than a minute. I hooked up the starter to jumper cables. I only got two slow turns each time I jumped the starter by jumping the positive to the small screw which I assume attaches to the starter solenoid. The turns lasted maybe two seconds. The battery is new as of 2/08 and is 1000 AMPS. I had the starter checked out and the parts store said it was good. Do I need two batteries? What amperage does everyone else use? Are jumper cables too long?

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

Do you plan to have the flywheel neutrally balanced?

 

Is the battery fully charged?

How long are the jumper cables?

What gauge are your jumper cables?

Have you confirmed the cable clamps are making good contact?

 

95Z28A4,

I don't plan on getting the flywheel nuetrally balanced at this time - maybe down the road. I just want to get this beast together and on the road

The cables are 18 footers and 4 AWG. The battery is fully charged. I'll go to Wally World and buy a couple connectors and cables. Before that, I'll try the battery from my truck that I bought last month. I suspect the cables are too long. The starter is brand new as is the engine.

Thanks for the input.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

The fact that the engine turned over slow would seem to point to too low of a voltage at the starter (voltage drop along the long cable).

The first time I turned my engine over I was surprised at how fast it started.

Do you have any air in the fuel lines? Have you primed the filter? Do you need to bleed air out of the injector lines?

This is exciting. Let us know when it fires up!