So are you simply removing the metal fuel lines that connect the OEM fuel filter and replacing with the braided hose? I've never messed with those type of connectors (are they called banjo bolts?) and wasn't sure how to keep dirt/metal filings/etc. out of the fuel lines if I tried to disconnect/alter the line on the clean side of the filter that goes into the injection pump/injectors. I didn't like how high it was either but also didn't want to mess anything up . . .

If you remove the metal fuel lines that connect to the injection pump you will be able to advance the pump timing a little more. I think that's the limiting factor on how far I can rotate the pump at this time.

 

Mook
Are you sure it is "neutrally balanced"? The applications listed in the description shows GM 4.3, 5.0, 5.7 engines. If this flywheel is considered a "stock" replacement, it may not be neutrally balanced. I attached links to pictures of a standard replacement "1 piece rear seal" flywheel for the same application and an older 1984 "2 piece rear seal" flywheel. Note the weight cast into the engine side of the "1 piece rear seal" flywheel at the 10 o'clock position. This weight is to compensate for the removal of the cast in weight that is on the rear of the 2 piece rear seal crankshaft. The 1986 and newer SBC cranks have a 1 piece rear seal with a circular crank flange and do not have the cast in weight. Both 1 piece rear seal and 2 piece rear seal SBC engines are considered "internally balanced". The 1970 - 1978 400 c.i. SBC is an externally balanced engine that uses a special flywheel and harmonic dampener/balancer.


1 piece rear seal flywheel:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=267&PTSet=A


2 piece rear seal flywheel:

http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=267&PTSet=A

 

Thanks for the pics. Why did you weld the spacer to the adapter? I hadn't thought about the adapter interfering with the front driveshaft. How close was the shaft to the adapter before clearancing? Was the starter "lump" causing a clearance problem, also?

Glad to hear you're back on the road.

 

Yeah everything that I cut posed a possible problem with clearance. I had maybe a inch or so clearance between the adapter ring and shaft. I still have a problem with the drivers side mount and pad I am going to relocate or remove it. I may have to cut some of the pad off. I welded the spacer on the adapter so I could fill in the gap between the two. I will post some pics of the underbelly tomorrow.

 

allright guys,


need some help. Put in the second rear main oil seal and it leaked - bad. I am wondering since I changed flywheel housings to a longer housing, I might need a different seal. The one for the original flywheel housing is part#C6140211341, per Quick Serve and Cummins West. Does anyone else have Cummins Quick Serve or a repair manual with part numbers that can reference the rear main oil seal for their flywheel housing. If not, I'll call Cummins Monday.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

Yeah, they're banjo bolts. They're all metric so the adapters weren't that cheap but I got them all through summit. For my turbo oil feed line I cut the stock line, bent it, and drilled and soldered it back into the original banjo style end.

Do you know where to get the stock paint on these engines? It's like a semigloss/flat charcoal or something and I would like to repaint with OEM color.

 

If you get a chance to post some pics of your modified fuel filter setup I'd find it fascinating. Also any description of the cleaning/modifying process you followed to keep dirt/etc out of the clean side of the fuel lines.

I don't know the paint information. Sorry. Perhaps Macet will chime in on that one? He seems to have access to some really interesting information at Cummins.

 

All the housings run the same seal. It may be the position of the housing. On some engines we use a centering tool to make sure seal carriers are centered. Are there dowel pins on the engine or housing? If this is the case you should be able to see if it is badly off center.

If you press the seal on the housing first then install the housing on the eigine it may work better.

 

Throw these options at your dealer. I am not having luck here we do not have them on file. I may be able to find you something by walking the floor and looking for something close.

SS30006 001 PAINT
002 PAINT COLOR: CUMMINS BLACK

SS30001 001 PAINT
002 PAINT COLOR: CUMMINS TITANIUM BLACK

 

Macet,

thanks for the reply. That was an option I was thinking of removing the housing and pressing it in first. I am having problems centering the seal. I might just spring for the main seal installer. I made one of 5 inch black abs pipe. I even turned it on my lathe to make sure it is flat and true.

I've never had this much trouble installing a main seal

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

TDIwyse,

Interesting thread, I read every single post of it over the last couple of days! You've created quite a phenomenon here!

I did want to chime in on your oil analysis. The results with Mobil 1 5w40 are EXCELLENT and it looks like you could probably run the oil 10K or so. Just watch the rates of iron and lead wear and as long as they track linear, no reason to change it out.

 

Thanks. That’s a lot of info to absorb in a short time!

There’s been a lot of great contributions from many different people. It’s also been good that the tone of the thread has stayed helpful and not been destroyed by bickering (which seems to happen a lot on the internet . . .)

 

Found this on Ebay: item#330252241166 It is a Bosch VE injector tool kit. Does anyone know if it would be useful for making adjustments to the timing on the B3.3? Description states," properly check and/or adjust the timing on any VE style injection pump".

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

I'll get some pics up one of these days. I decided to not put the engine in a TJ rather I'm getting a 95 explorer sport and putting an AX15 in it. Should be an interesting project for sure.

I'm just going to buy whatever cummins black paint I find on ebay and hope it's the same. Either that or I'll just get the cheapo flat black stuff at autozone.

As for cleaning the lines, I wasn't super careful really just plugged off any holes with tape or a rag so nothing would get in. I've never had problems in the past using this method.

I'm having so much trouble getting the compressor housing back on the turbo because I can't get the stupid snap ring back in. What a stupid design. I've officially disabled the wastegate and clocked the turbo I just can't get it back together!!!

 

Don't know. Did you buy it?