TDIwyse,

no I didn't. I didn't want to waste my money. Maybe I will call to find out if it will work. I'll also search other Websites for similar products.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

Finally got the rear main seal installed. I had it pressed in and sanded the crank with croccus paper. It had a couple of burrs eventhough it was a new engine - Lesson learned. I would suggest anyone attempting to install the rear main seal to remove the flywheel housing and have it pressed in. It is easy to press the seal in too far, as I did with the last seal. Maybe the rear main seal intaller prevents the seal from going in too far, but it costs $125 + from Cummins.

Now I can finally work on pullin out that Jeep 4.0!!!

Found a site that links to a site that sells the QSB 3.3 for a resonable price of $4100.00. There other listing is $4300.00 I assume this includes the electronics. Listed as 99hp. I've seen other QSB 3.3 go up to 110hp. Prices are less than what I've seen for the G2 B3.3.

http://tinyurl.com/6sbevg

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

Those QSB3.3's are in Iowa! Must . . . remain . . . calm . . .

My wife would just FREAK OUT if I came home with one of those . . . If only I had more storage space

 

My jeep has been running great. I commute a round trip of 76 miles, Friday I checked my fuel consumption round trip I burnt 2.5 gal. 30.4mpg. I checked the air I'm my tires Wednesday and all were low 15- 20 psi I added a little air (50psi is the rating) and yesterday I burnt
2.1 gal. 36.2mpg. I question my filling technique. Its just TOO GOODmpg. Same pump same level in my fill tube. The ride is easy I can make it without getting over 3-4 lbs boost.

I have been noticing a small drip coming from my engine's rear seal. I am hoping it is lube Japan sprayed in the flywheel, but it keeps showing up. I am starting to think I should have drained a little oil out before I started running it. the damage is done now, so be it.

I have also improved on my mounting. I still have 4 mountings but I changed to softer bushings. the initial ones had a 64 durometer reading I replaced with 48. At idle the steering wheel vibrates a little, but I can really tell a difference when I dump the clutch and running at low rpm's. I bought a poly trans mount (DUMMY) after all the discussion against poly I think I will get the last bit of improvement from swapping that. Also I am trying to think of a way to use the same bushing I used for engine mounts tor the tranny stabilizer. Now the engine moves like I visualized it. at start up and shut down I can watch the bushings flexing.

I have also been pondering the advantages of two vs four mounts. I wonder what the bending moment at the rear of the PC adapter (assuming it is the weak link) is on an engine only mounted at the front. I tried to find the COG for the 3.3 and stopped there. My flywheel specialist would know but he has recently became my boss and is too busy with the transition to bother. I am going to continue to work on that. once I get a figure I will have to call PC to get max moment.

For the 4 position mount I figured 567 engine + 40lbs tranny weight on engine / 4 151.75 per mount. This way there should be only around 40-50 lbs acting on the tranny to PC connection. The 40-50 is a guess. I know the tranny weight is 100 lbs and the transfer case cancels some of the weight to the tranny mount , and I would guess it weighs around 50lbs. Notice I use guess a lot do you see anything wrong with the way I am thinking?

Also on the fuel filter bracket I used 1/8 by 2" strap and made it is close as I could to the engine and it broke. I installed these bushings to isolate the vibes on the filter and so for it has done good. There are many uses for these things I use them to bolt by seats down. LOL

https://vibrationmounts.com/Store.as...=Products7.htm

Rubber Fasteners
EPDM
PN V11Z41MKT08

 

Here's an excerpt from an auto engineer on another diesel project that I plan to build in the future, regarding engine mounts:

In order to damp low-frequency vibrations, such as those typical of an engine at idle, the vibrating mass must be allowed to move. If the vibrating mass cannot move, vibrations will be transferred to the vehicle. The most offensive vibrations and the most difficult to isolate, however, come from low frequency, high amplitude excitations that happen at low rpm. So the key to a smooth vehicle is to let the vibrating mass move, which implies flexabile motor mounts. This is especially important with a diesel engine.

When the engine/transmission assembly is allowed to move, components that pass between the engine and the frame must be flexible or allowed to move as well. For example, the exhaust pipe will move along with the engine. So a flexible exhaust pipe connector is advised.

I know my Cummins 3.9 is rough at idle and the B3.3 is less rough at idle in the metal shipping framing. I've bought hydraulic Ford F250 motor mounts that I'll try to use.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

I called cummins in Des Moines, IA. The engines are listed incorrectly. The $4375 engine is actually a 4.5L mechanical 4BT and the $4100 engine is a 110 HP QSB3.3. I purchased the 110 HP QSB3.3. It should arrive at the terminal Friday. I'm not ready to start the conversion yet as I'm still remodeling a rent house, but I could not pass up this deal. I got a price for this same engine a few months back from my local cummins dealer and they wanted $7300 + sales tax. This gives me time to build the wiring harness to interface the ECM to the vehicle.


Cool. Please let us know how they work. I'm hoping to use the same mounts.

 

SHAZAM! What a bunch of great info this morning.

Great stuff Macet! Glad it's running well.

BigBlue, i'm also interested to hear about your hydraulic mounts.

And 95Z28A4 I'm sooooo tempted to drive over there and pick up a QSB version for some type of future project. I'm looking forward to hearing updates on your progress.

FYI, I'm pretty sure the local Cedar Rapids dealer is linked with that Des Moines place and is why my B3.3T was so much less $ than other places I'd looked.

 

Do you guys know how the fueling works on the QSB version? It's "drive by wire" is it not? How will that work in terms of the governor? Since I've increased the HP/Torque on my B3.3T I've noticed a "tight" govenor in low rpm/slow speed driving when going over bumps. I'm curious if the QSB version will be even tighter or if the software can be modified to make it more forgiving?

Any thoughts?

 

Bigblue that excerpt is correct when choosing bushings/ mounts you need to get the softest, lowest durometer reading, possible for the rated weight. The bushings I use now are rated for 150lbs per bushing and have a durometer rating of 48. the first set were rated for 300lbs per bushing and had a duro rating of 64. Also I did install a 8” flew pipe and yes it needed it. The turbo mounts could not have stood the vibes.

95Z have you decided on a recipient yet. It will be a great project to watch. Have you asked about the calibrations for that engine? Are they the same as the other Cummins electric engines? I can’t get a clear answer. I will post those pics I mentioned (I have to buy a new camera).

The oil leak I mentioned previously has disappeared I must have slung all the lube off the flywheel. Thank God!!

Let me clarify what I am leery of concerning two mounts. I am unsure of the amount of force the automotive bell can take. Using only the front leaves a lot of weight in-between suspended. In most OEM applications the mounts are close to the COG leaving very little weight on the engine to tranny connection.

I have thought about using the front and rear buy building a bracket that links the two together and then install the mount close to the center of gravity. That way force is directly transmitted to the chassis and there would be more freedom for movement.

TDI all I can say is the QSB has a throttle position sensor. I don’t know whether it is hooked to anything else. I'll look today at sone of the larger electric engines they are probably similar.

 

Cummins in Des Moines sent a pdf of the wiring diagram. I don't understand the function of all of the OEM inputs yet. I'm hoping the manual will have more info.

 

Nice document. Looks like you know exactly which sensors you could access to "fool"

Rail pressure - could be fooled to increase pressure which would push more fuel (I think the QSB has a stock max of 16k psi while the on road common rail have typically ran at ~23k with the next gen version approaching 30k psi). You could probably safely increase this a bit with some simple electronic circuit that reduces the signal level the ECM sees.

Camshaft and crankshaft sensors - perhaps you could do something like the "tone ring" mod that many of us have done with the 5.9 common rail Cummins which advances the injection timing. Should improve thermal efficiency at the expense of NOx.

Looks like there's lots of room to slap and tickle that engine.

 

95Z28A4, does your state have emissions testing?

 

I use that tool for my VW turbo diesel (not my TDI - that is electronic). If there is a 12 mm bolt on back of the IP, in the center of where the injection lines bolt up to the pump, then you can definately use it... as long as you are absolutely certain where TDC is on the flywheel. If you need more info on the process of timing the pump with this method, let me know.

 

bigbillyboy,

thanks for the reply. I'll think I'll pass.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

95Z28A4,

look at the Megasquirt manual website. It gives info on EFI, but most of the info on the sensors will apply to diesel.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue