More info on the standalones:

List price on the 15.1 is $10,735 cdn.
List price on the 15 sport is $4700 cdn.

Here I thought rods were expensive...

 

Pulling down south is pretty big stuff. Just south,west Chicago, is big puller area, it make our blackout look pretty small stuff. I wanted to go to couple big events when I was down there working. I met a guy at work that worked for team for guy that ran sled puller with twin keith black hemis. The truck ran alcohol 526in aluminum motors. They ruined one engine during at one of the pulls due to lack of fuel and cost around $25k to fix. At that point for me its so much easier to sit back and watch the carnage fly.

 

Found a pic in my travels of the 3 different styles of rods.



Left to Right 12 / 24 / CR


That CR rod in the pic above looks very much the same as the bent one pictured earlier.

 

That standalone will one day be on my truck. But the prices have to drop some (and they will)

Mike how big is that T88, how would it compare to a S595? I am quite positive I could spin a S595 under this turbo.

I will be running a hood stack this time, the stacks have ran their last race,, LOL.

Got home this morning with the truck and the new engine. As soon as I figure out how to unload the engine I will unload the truck and yank the head off. See what happened and the damage to the head. Then I will pull the engine out.

Im going to have a few parts for sale, such as a stock 48RE with 84k kms on it.. the engine and tranny look very good. Tranny oil dosent smell burnt or anything, I am quite sure it is working good.

So far I am leaning towards the Crower Rods. Havent decided on the pistons yet. I will be contacting Dr P this week to see what they can work out for me on a block girdle, cam, 625's and a engine diaper. I am praying that the head is good on the old engine, I probably wont use it anyways, as I will Oring the block this time.

Does anyone know where I can get the block dipped?

Also what is everyone using for a engine stand to work on these engines? Im kinda thinking that a normal engine stand just wont work right for these bad boys

 

A reg engine stand will work if you mount the engine sideways on it. If you mount it like normal, you have an incredibly heavy lever action on it. I built a stand for my 12v, but you can't flip it around or anything.

dvst8r, 14mm mains should be pretty easy to do. There is a guy on comp d who did it himself with a good mag base drill. A good drill press could do it too.

 

I know of a company that is in BC and is working on adapting another diesels computer (that can be tuned similar to efilive) to be used on a cummins, if I had to guess on price it will be ~$3000 with a harness.

I could swear that a T88 is an 88mm turbo, but some of that older stuff didn't follow any real rhyme or reason. We will have to wait till Mike puts his mic on it. If it is an 88mm I feel that will be a little small, and the S595 at 95mm is a better choice. I would really like to see something in the 101-105mm range. (GT5541 sized should make for nice map matching)

Hopefully that tranny will bring in enough to cover rods I don't think you can go wrong with any of the 4340 rods.

Block dipped as in Hot tanked? If that is the case, almost every machine shop I have been to has one.

The only way I have made a "normal" engine stand work is: First start with the 4 leg one, 3 leg one colapases after about a month (don't ask me how I know ) and then instead of mounting it on the trans bell housing bolts I built a mount plate to bolt it to the side of the block, using the motor mount location. So it sits like "-I" instead of like "--" Edit Tate beat me to it.

 

Would you happen to still have this plate,, could I purchase it from you? My fab skills leave a lot to be desired

 

I did a miata block for a buddy with my cdm drill press, and a drill bit with some tape on it (to mark for depth) and then hand tapped it. Obviously not to 14mm . It worked but I highly recommend a better drill press, it is a real bonus when the hole comes out round...

 

Sold it with the motor and the stand.

It was just a couple holes, and some random bolts I had around. I don't even recall doing any welding.

I think I might have a picture of it on my computer at home, if not I will draw something in paint...

 

you can use my rotator stand no problem if you want............






these bolt to the engine mount pads and "in theory" should hold the engine mostly neutral. I have saddles that need to be welded to the frame there 1 on each side. but I didn't want to do that until I had an engine rigged to center it.

 

Darn, I forgot to measure it. I thinking that its a 88mm, as I thought that it was similar to a GT4718 on the compressor side, I think that the exducer is 117mm. As for the S595, I don't have any numbers, but I would guess that its 10% bigger. I would try a smallest turbine housing as you can get for the S595, so you can spool it up. I can price out a S595 and get some info on it. I would put in a external gate if you run a turbo that big. I wonder if that big turbo wold be fully spooled by the mid track. We could record data and do some testing. How about using a custom built header with the correct turbo flange size and a flange for an 50mm+ external gate. I'm gonna get a T-03 flange built with a 38mm wastegate flange and see how it works out.

 

That looks cool Luke, will it hold the engine firm enough to be able to torque things down?

 

I used a cheapie Princess Auto hoist when I installed my engine, it barely had enough reach as with the engine fully dressed(clutch and housing installed) I couldn't use it on max extension.

With the accessories off and clutch/flywheel/housing off I could lift it with my hoist on max extension and was able to pluck it off of the back of the bed of my truck.

When I pulled the engine I did it with the tranny in. Had to pull the valve cover and the 2 rear most cylinder's rocker assemblies, push rods and injectors. Then I lifted the engine as far as possible against the fender wall. Pull the pan and pickup tube and then I could get it out. Hood actually stayed on.

If you are pulling the head anyway then do that first as then you'll have lots of room to manouver the engine out. I think the pan/oil pickup will still have to come off though.

 

The easy way to pull an engine in our trucks is to lift the body, undo the first 4 mounts you see, put a block a wood and out it will come with no other modifications

 

no doubt about it. its heavy. I put double locking castors on one side and non steers on the other. it might not look heavy but the frame just as is, is a heavy sob.