Ya but at the end of THAT day......you're still stuck with a Honda Civic.

 

LOL, at the end of any day it is never cheap to go fast. As the old adage goes "If you want to make a million dollars racing... Start with two million."

I love racing, and building things, doesn't matter if that is a lawnmower, a civic, a diesel truck, or a boat ect... I just finished up a 10sec civic (which is specifically why I used that analogy), Will be starting on a single turbo Cleavland powered '72 Mach1 at about the end of October, and I am forever working on my own POS farm truck. Not to mention bikes, sleds, and whatever else falls in my lap. I can't imagine doing it as a job, but I can't imagine not doing it as a hobby.

My passion has always been diesel, even as a kid, but I won't discriminate against anything trying to get more then stock.

 

Just so you guys have a target,, I am looking at spending around 5 to 7 k not including the purchase of the engine... so dream away,, let me know


Oh and Mike,, dont forget to start dreaming twin turbos,, I think we should use this one as the top

 

I read on the internet about someone removing a ton of weight out the crank? Whats the crank weigh 150-160 lbs? Rotating at 5k, thats alot of inertia, throw on a set of heavy rods, pistons. Wow, its a ton of weigh. A bad thing about those big lift camshafts, is that you have to put in a bushing into the cummins block. A steel cam is also required vs. the cast cam. I bet that we could build a decent spare short block for less than the 4k that you spent. Hopefully you old head is salvagable, you could put it on the short block. I'm with you on the idea of building a decent oil pan and windage tray for these motors. Thats alot of oil slushing around in that pan. I would also do a decent flashing clean-up on the block/head and coat it with teflon coating. To add oil going back into the pan. The electric coolant pump is also another great idea. I'm game to help out in the motor build. Twins are easy, I just need the truck to do a custom build. Those are turbos are gonna be big

 

You can only get about 4k out of the CR right now, so no worries about real high rpms with it. F1 has their Spartan Billet cams, which is as strong as your typical billet cam, but doesn't require cam bearings installed in the other 6 journals.

 

I agree with you Tate, the spartan is a good choice, as you don't have to cut the pistons. Just about everyone has the same profile on the non-fly cut camshaft, so I would look to see what works with your pocket.

All you really need is fire rings/orings and a decent porting job for 4k. I don't think that its possible to build a engine to run that much NOS and be 100% reliable. Ya can beef up stuff. Probably Kev's lack of decent fuel pressure issue, probably didn't help the motor on that heavy of spray.

Tate, do you remember which year is the best for stock rods? The storm block has the 14mm main studs?

 

I know my 1st gen block has 14mm, I think that some of the storms do as well.

If the truck makes it to Mike's I will load up the tig, and we can definitely get that 4202, and the T88 (Mike did you say that it has a ~105mm inducer?) to work.

I think rods are the biggest issue to longevity. Typical Cummins fail
I have never seen a cummins crank that had oil fail. Pistons seem to do fine, as long as they don't melt...

As far as stock rods, from what I hear Marine ones are the ones to have.

As far as after market rods go:

-Woodruff Diesel
-Cunningham
-Crower
-tts Now then they don't show them on their site, but they had some at SEMA last year...??? (Also a rumor that r&r makes the rods for tts???)
-R&R connecting rods


Imho head work goes a long way.

As for fuel that mitsusa mechanical pump seems to move a [expletive] load of fuel.

 

dvst8r, that bent rods looks like a aftermarket rod. Its too polished, deburred and debeamed to be a factory cummins piece. I'll measure up the inducer size of the T-88 tomorrow. It should be coverted to a ball bearing, or it will never spool-up decently in a small 5.9L motor. Man I still can't get over how those rods are so pricey.

If we get Kev's truck down here, it will require a team effort to get everything done. I can build a regular set of twins without a truck, but something that big and special, it would be tuff to guess how it would go together, but I do have a plan. A GT4718R was $3600, so the T-88 looks like pretty sweet deal.

 

Mike that was a stock, but peened, and cryo'd rod as I understand it. The peening is probably what give it that smoothed shinny look.

I am guessing Kevin's rod looks like that... (other then the shiny part)

 

I'm on board. I'll do whatever i can. if the rig comes down here.

 

You guys know of anyone in town that can do the shotpeen and cyro. I have done a set of 440 rods away back. The VE motor doesn't have the second turbo oil drain, so the oil pan has to be adjusted. I do have a virgin 98 12v available. The very least, I can make a decent short block.

Most machine shops don't want to touch a crank thats been drastically weight adjusted Even if you remove 10% weight off the rods and the crank thats a hugh step. I have been thinking about using Ross forged pistons that have the fly cuts and the extreme coatings on the piston. I want to have the pistons prior to machining the block so each cylinder is matched to the piston.

dvst8r, whats your plans for adjusting the oil pan? A guy can just put in a few pan baffles and crank scraper. The real answer is a dry sump system.

 

If we want to get nuts, I can build a baffled aluminum pan with how ever many return ports we want... Aluminum is cheap, just need a stock pan that is off the truck for something to go by, and how much room we have around it.

I think especially after digging up a couple threads with bent rods that had been peened and cryro'd, that I think rods are probably priority. At least more so then a dry sump, though that would be sweet.

Now with that being said, BBD split a filled block, with Marine rods that had been treated and peened. However he was also running 11.5:1 Arias pistons. My opinion is that the drastic drop in compression ratio, drops the peak cylinder pressures enough, for the rods to live even in a MOD puller motor with 2 hx-82's. Then again he is also going down the track at ~ 2000rpm higher then the CR motor is currently capable of. Also this increase in RPM obviously means they are making more power given the same torque, and it is torque that is killing rods and motors not Horsepower. So if Kevin is making 1300hp, which I have no doubt he is, with a stock motor at that. I would have to guess he is making that power closer to 3500rpm then 4000rpm which would put him into the ~2000 ft.lbs of torque area. Make that same kind of torque in a MOD puller where it 2000rpm higher and you are knocking on the door of 2100hp.

This is the reason that all of the cummins heavy hitters: Mod pulling trucks, Pro stock drag trucks, all still run p-pumps just for the extra RPM. As soon as that is figured out for the CR trucks, you will start seeing some huge numbers.

Back to blocks for a minute. I don't think it is that expensive to have a 12mm block drilled and taped for 14mm...


Another thing that will probably have to be looked at, though it is not a priority at this time is wheels and tires. The 20's look sweet, but I have no doubt that they are HEAVY, and the tires worked well at 1000hp, but are overwhelmed at 1300hp+

On the weight front, if you are allowed to run a hood stack, that is probably another 50lbs+ savings.

 

Good stuff buddy. Keep it coming. You sure that motor ran 11.5 compression, wow how did that motor even start? Must been running alcohol or a mix of fuels. Maybe started used tons of starter fluid.

I have two oil pans to hack-up. I'm working on getting the perfect one, it has some damage to the pan. At that point it has to get repaired anyways.

Two HX-82, running as a two singles, you wouldn't get the boost pressure as you would running them in compound, but tons of mass flow available. I would guess around 160 to 180 lbs/min at 60psi. Would be a slug to spool-up for sure. Twins in compound will respond faster (spool-up) and you'll get more of that 130-140 lbs/min that a T-88 has. I would guess that if everything holds together, you'll see 100psi in boost. Its rated at 1200 to 1600HP, add NOS to the mix, wow, that crazy amounts of power. We just have to figure out a head gasket to keep everything inside the motor.

I was thinking about dumping the exhaust right infront of the front tire under the fender sheetmetal. The T-88 turbine discharge will be facing forward towards the front bumper. A quick 90 deg dump and abit of pipe you'll be directed towards the ground.

Those rods are $2700+ USD, thats alot of cash for six pieces of metal.

 

I'm sure I read a while ago (maybe on TDR) a sled pulling guy had developed a machined front conversion cover & gear case for a P-pumped CR.
He was also selling them. He was revving his CR to the moon.

Huge dollars but I'm quite sure someone has done it.

...Joe

 

Sorry Mike I was wrong they are 11.1 CR http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ad.php?t=52263 For sale. Straight #2, doesn't idle well, but no Mod class truck, or tractor does.

Good stuff on the pans, we can either modify those for multiple returns, and baffle them, or use them to come up with something to make out of aluminum.

HX-80-83's in the Pulling world are almost as arbitrary as saying a holset turbo. As they come from like a 3.0" - 4.1"+ inducer sizes. They are most certainly run in compound. The top dog's have even run out of air with a single 4.1 atmospheric charger, and have gone to twin atmospheric's in parallel.

The crowers were "only" like $2200usd

I would have dump out the side past the tire, as there tends to be moister in the exhaust, and have that dumping under a tire at 130mph+ could be scary.

BUT For the big ticket item of the day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ad.php?t=65441 As that changes EVERYTHING.