3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years Talk about the 2003 and up Dodge Ram here. PLEASE, NO ENGINE OR DRIVETRAIN DISCUSSION!.

Upgraded steering

Old Feb 14, 2009 | 05:05 PM
  #271  
mitternocht's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by mad1
I just bought the kit through my dealor and he said that the pitman arm was not needed. He also said a total of 30 were sold in the entire US vs the kit which has sold over 400. A friend installed it so far no issues but I have not got under the truck to see what it looks like. So do you need the pitman arm or not? I am not running the baja, just street driving with beach time in the summer.
I’d get the new pitman arm if I were you. If the suspension goes to full compression the pitman arm ball stud could hit the steering linkage. Imagine if you nail a speed bump or what have you. This would be bad mojo for your sector shaft.

The fact that only 3 pitman arms were sold and over 400 steering kits were sold just means that a lot of people are running around with a potential issue. Now if you have a lift you might not need the new pitman arm, but actually the new arm brings the drag link forward and down making it better for lifted trucks
Reply
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 05:09 PM
  #272  
mitternocht's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by aborgardt
I looked back and re-read the first few posts and didnt see anything about it being a recall?? Is it infact a recall? I would have thought the dealer would have had to fix it before they sold it to me? Should i be calling and raising hell?
Here is the tread:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=230988

If you have the AA-AD linkage you can get these parts to update it:

CBD1H361
CBFAH362

Damper bracket and ball joint for pitman arm, ~$90 for both.
Reply
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 05:28 PM
  #273  
Raspy's Avatar
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Originally Posted by mitternocht
I’d get the new pitman arm if I were you. If the suspension goes to full compression the pitman arm ball stud could hit the steering linkage. Imagine if you nail a speed bump or what have you. This would be bad mojo for your sector shaft.

The fact that only 3 pitman arms were sold and over 400 steering kits were sold just means that a lot of people are running around with a potential issue. Now if you have a lift you might not need the new pitman arm, but actually the new arm brings the drag link forward and down making it better for lifted trucks

The pitman arm ball stud DOES hit the tie rod. Every suspension compression even close to bottoming causes a hit. Change the pitman arm! I don't care what the dealer says is necessary, they hit and it will cause damage. Trying to save a couple of bucks and allowing this problem is not a good plan. Change it.
Reply
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 07:39 PM
  #274  
Pull Ya's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
From: Cedar Creek, Texas
When I installed my kit I also changed the pitnam arm and the steering stablizer. The pitnam arm was an additional $40 I think, and it was worth that to me to make sure I didn't have any problem. I agree--replace it--
Jay
Reply
Old Feb 14, 2009 | 10:05 PM
  #275  
aborgardt's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Brumley, MO
Ok, So how would i tell if the pitman arm on my truck is factory or if it was replaced with the addition of the lift? This is the only thing heeding my decision. I dont know what has been replaced since i bought it with 55k already on it.

So from what i am gathering is i should replace the tie rod and and the drag link arm. I do not need to replace the steer damper since i have replaced it with dual ranchos since i purchased it. I know also the ball joint on the pitman arm is new because i made the dealer replace it as part of the deal.

I guess the only thing im iffy on is the pitman arm and the tie-rod ends? Should i just do them or am i just throwing $ away?
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 02:29 AM
  #276  
jeffsclan's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
So here is something else to think about. I've had the recall done, should I get the BD steering brace thing? Waste of time and money ? Or would it make a stronger front end for the long haul?
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 02:33 AM
  #277  
jeffsclan's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Hey "mitter" I couldn't help but to notice your GV overdrive in your sig line. How is that working out for you. Hijack bad
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 08:05 AM
  #278  
xtoyz17's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
Originally Posted by jeffsclan
So here is something else to think about. I've had the recall done, should I get the BD steering brace thing? Waste of time and money ? Or would it make a stronger front end for the long haul?
Yes, get one anyways. You may not notice a different on a good steering box but it will save your frame and steering gear a lot of abuse.
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 08:33 AM
  #279  
WildBill79's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Daytona Beach, Fl
Originally Posted by aborgardt
Ok, So how would i tell if the pitman arm on my truck is factory or if it was replaced with the addition of the lift? This is the only thing heeding my decision. I dont know what has been replaced since i bought it with 55k already on it.

So from what i am gathering is i should replace the tie rod and and the drag link arm. I do not need to replace the steer damper since i have replaced it with dual ranchos since i purchased it. I know also the ball joint on the pitman arm is new because i made the dealer replace it as part of the deal.

I guess the only thing im iffy on is the pitman arm and the tie-rod ends? Should i just do them or am i just throwing $ away?
If the pitman arm ball joint or ball stud, whichever it is called, is mounted from the underside of the pitman arm with the stud facing upwards you have the drop pitman arm. With 4" of lift you would have to have this or your truck would not drive right at all. You will not need the upgraded pitman arm because the stud if facing upwards, therefore it can not contact the drag link. Get the upgraded steering kit (AE) without the pitman arm or dampner and modify your dual damper setup to fit. This is what I have done with my 5" lift and I am happy with it.
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 09:00 AM
  #280  
stroker101's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
From: slidell, la.
Originally Posted by jeffsclan
So here is something else to think about. I've had the recall done, should I get the BD steering brace thing? Waste of time and money ? Or would it make a stronger front end for the long haul?
it helps support the sector shaft and bearing from stress.
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 02:18 PM
  #281  
mitternocht's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by jeffsclan
Hey "mitter" I couldn't help but to notice your GV overdrive in your sig line. How is that working out for you. Hijack bad
It works well; you get a drop of 400-500 RPMs when it is engaged.

You are not supposed to use it with an exhaust brake. I have stock 265s; with 315s you’d really drop the RPMs.

I get anywhere from 15.x MPG around town and 18-21 on the highway depending on the season. I’m not convinced the GV really gives me better MPGs but it does put me at 1700-1800 RPMs on the highway rather than 2200-2400. Empty with nothing in tow roaring down the highway at 2300 RPMs is crazy.

Maybe someday I’ll get some free spin hubs to help with MPG.
Reply
Old Feb 16, 2009 | 02:02 AM
  #282  
Flying Circus's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Va
Not to jack the thread but what is the most fuel efficient rpm to run?? With my 5 speed and the big tires 5th gear @ 55 unloaded is about 1500 rpm it's more comfortable to run in 4th but not sure where it's most efficient usually I cruise in 4th around town but on the interstate 5th doesn't really come in to play until i'm over 62mph, and on another note I got a thuren track bar and the upgraded steering, I can't wait to install em, getting the track bar back from the powdercoater tomorrow, will post pics of the install if anyone is curious!!
Thanks
Monty
Reply
Old Feb 16, 2009 | 06:14 PM
  #283  
stroker101's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
From: slidell, la.
Originally Posted by truckjunkie
Is this new setup covered under the 7/70 powertrain warranty (I have an 04.5) or only the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty?

I have 69,500 on mine right now, and if it's covered still, I'm on my way to the dealer tomorrow...
my dealer today told me that it 'was" covered under the long since gone 3yr/36000 mile warranty. (47K on the clock now)

and they probably knew this when they sold me the trk just under the 36K.
them
Reply
Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:03 PM
  #284  
mattyfz450's Avatar
Banned
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
where is the best place to get these part for the updated steering system, i need to get everything, the steering assy, pit arm, damper, and the nuts and bolt. I have checked dodgeparts.com and they are out of stock. is the dealership the best place? thanks
Reply
Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:33 PM
  #285  
mitternocht's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
Your local dealership can order them, but they might not match “dodgeparts.com’s” prices.

These parts were in high demand even before they recalled the AA-AD part numbers, now they are flying off the shelf. The new setup is superior to the old one, however it would have been nice if Chrysler would have got the new setup right with the 1st design.

I'd call "dodgeparts" (1-800-826-8951) and get on the list so they can send them out when they come in, or see if your local Dodge dealership will work you a deal.
Reply

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:48 AM.