Upgraded steering
I just bought the kit through my dealor and he said that the pitman arm was not needed. He also said a total of 30 were sold in the entire US vs the kit which has sold over 400. A friend installed it so far no issues but I have not got under the truck to see what it looks like. So do you need the pitman arm or not? I am not running the baja, just street driving with beach time in the summer.
The fact that only 3 pitman arms were sold and over 400 steering kits were sold just means that a lot of people are running around with a potential issue. Now if you have a lift you might not need the new pitman arm, but actually the new arm brings the drag link forward and down making it better for lifted trucks
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=230988
If you have the AA-AD linkage you can get these parts to update it:
CBD1H361
CBFAH362
Damper bracket and ball joint for pitman arm, ~$90 for both.
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
I’d get the new pitman arm if I were you. If the suspension goes to full compression the pitman arm ball stud could hit the steering linkage. Imagine if you nail a speed bump or what have you. This would be bad mojo for your sector shaft.
The fact that only 3 pitman arms were sold and over 400 steering kits were sold just means that a lot of people are running around with a potential issue. Now if you have a lift you might not need the new pitman arm, but actually the new arm brings the drag link forward and down making it better for lifted trucks
The fact that only 3 pitman arms were sold and over 400 steering kits were sold just means that a lot of people are running around with a potential issue. Now if you have a lift you might not need the new pitman arm, but actually the new arm brings the drag link forward and down making it better for lifted trucks
The pitman arm ball stud DOES hit the tie rod. Every suspension compression even close to bottoming causes a hit. Change the pitman arm! I don't care what the dealer says is necessary, they hit and it will cause damage. Trying to save a couple of bucks and allowing this problem is not a good plan. Change it.
When I installed my kit I also changed the pitnam arm and the steering stablizer. The pitnam arm was an additional $40 I think, and it was worth that to me to make sure I didn't have any problem. I agree--replace it--
Jay
Jay
Ok, So how would i tell if the pitman arm on my truck is factory or if it was replaced with the addition of the lift? This is the only thing heeding my decision. I dont know what has been replaced since i bought it with 55k already on it.
So from what i am gathering is i should replace the tie rod and and the drag link arm. I do not need to replace the steer damper since i have replaced it with dual ranchos since i purchased it. I know also the ball joint on the pitman arm is new because i made the dealer replace it as part of the deal.
I guess the only thing im iffy on is the pitman arm and the tie-rod ends? Should i just do them or am i just throwing $ away?
So from what i am gathering is i should replace the tie rod and and the drag link arm. I do not need to replace the steer damper since i have replaced it with dual ranchos since i purchased it. I know also the ball joint on the pitman arm is new because i made the dealer replace it as part of the deal.
I guess the only thing im iffy on is the pitman arm and the tie-rod ends? Should i just do them or am i just throwing $ away?
Yes, get one anyways. You may not notice a different on a good steering box but it will save your frame and steering gear a lot of abuse.
Ok, So how would i tell if the pitman arm on my truck is factory or if it was replaced with the addition of the lift? This is the only thing heeding my decision. I dont know what has been replaced since i bought it with 55k already on it.
So from what i am gathering is i should replace the tie rod and and the drag link arm. I do not need to replace the steer damper since i have replaced it with dual ranchos since i purchased it. I know also the ball joint on the pitman arm is new because i made the dealer replace it as part of the deal.
I guess the only thing im iffy on is the pitman arm and the tie-rod ends? Should i just do them or am i just throwing $ away?
So from what i am gathering is i should replace the tie rod and and the drag link arm. I do not need to replace the steer damper since i have replaced it with dual ranchos since i purchased it. I know also the ball joint on the pitman arm is new because i made the dealer replace it as part of the deal.
I guess the only thing im iffy on is the pitman arm and the tie-rod ends? Should i just do them or am i just throwing $ away?
You are not supposed to use it with an exhaust brake. I have stock 265s; with 315s you’d really drop the RPMs.
I get anywhere from 15.x MPG around town and 18-21 on the highway depending on the season. I’m not convinced the GV really gives me better MPGs but it does put me at 1700-1800 RPMs on the highway rather than 2200-2400. Empty with nothing in tow roaring down the highway at 2300 RPMs is crazy.
Maybe someday I’ll get some free spin hubs to help with MPG.
Not to jack the thread but what is the most fuel efficient rpm to run?? With my 5 speed and the big tires 5th gear @ 55 unloaded is about 1500 rpm it's more comfortable to run in 4th but not sure where it's most efficient usually I cruise in 4th around town but on the interstate 5th doesn't really come in to play until i'm over 62mph, and on another note I got a thuren track bar and the upgraded steering, I can't wait to install em, getting the track bar back from the powdercoater tomorrow, will post pics of the install if anyone is curious!!
Thanks
Monty
Thanks
Monty
and they probably knew this when they sold me the trk just under the 36K.
them
where is the best place to get these part for the updated steering system, i need to get everything, the steering assy, pit arm, damper, and the nuts and bolt. I have checked dodgeparts.com and they are out of stock. is the dealership the best place? thanks
Your local dealership can order them, but they might not match “dodgeparts.com’s” prices. 
These parts were in high demand even before they recalled the AA-AD part numbers, now they are flying off the shelf. The new setup is superior to the old one, however it would have been nice if Chrysler would have got the new setup right with the 1st design.
I'd call "dodgeparts" (1-800-826-8951) and get on the list so they can send them out when they come in, or see if your local Dodge dealership will work you a deal.

These parts were in high demand even before they recalled the AA-AD part numbers, now they are flying off the shelf. The new setup is superior to the old one, however it would have been nice if Chrysler would have got the new setup right with the 1st design.

I'd call "dodgeparts" (1-800-826-8951) and get on the list so they can send them out when they come in, or see if your local Dodge dealership will work you a deal.


