Lost power windows
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Diego, Calif.
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lost power windows
I haven't hauled passengers in a while, today my wife tried to operate the passenger side window but could not. I tried the "window lock out" button on the driver's side, made no difference. I also noticed the back windows did not operate. All windows operate at the driver's control button. I've looked for a fuse, but could not find one. Any idea's out there? Thanks, Jim.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: clinton, tn
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is a common problem on our bodystyle trucks. The problem is the master switch at the drivers door. It gets corosion at the electrical points inside the switches. U need to replace the whole switch assemly on the drivers door and that should take care of it. But check ur fuses first b4 u go spend that kinda money. It happened on my truck and ive seen it on several others that come thrrew the shop so im prity confident that is wat ur prob is if the fuses are good.
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: In Oroville, Ca., same house for past 46 yrs!
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My back windows work fine but the pass window does the same thing. I bounce the window lock-out switch on the drivers side with my finger as fast as I can and it will usually start working for her in a minute or less. I dealt with that problem for months, usually worse in the winter but then I got sick and tired of messing with it and her attitude, "...could you PLEASE unlock my window..." so I bought a can of contact cleaner and removed the switch panel cluster on the drivers side and sprayed the hell out of it, no more problem. Yours might be that easy to fix. worth a try before buying a new cluster. $$$
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Diego, Calif.
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks cdennyb. That is what I thought I would try first, if that didn't work, my next plan was to jump across the lockout switch, if that's possible.
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: clinton, tn
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yes u can take of the cluster switch without taking off the door panel. alls u need is a small flat tip screw driver to pry it up. u may b able to take the switch apart and clean it with the contact cleaner but if nt then it will need to b replaced, but it shldn take more then a few minutes to change it out. hope this helps.
Trending Topics
#8
yes u can take of the cluster switch without taking off the door panel. alls u need is a small flat tip screw driver to pry it up. u may b able to take the switch apart and clean it with the contact cleaner but if nt then it will need to b replaced, but it shldn take more then a few minutes to change it out. hope this helps.
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Anywhere the RV is
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone ever take the drivers door master switch apart ? From what I see, I've removed the 6 screws, and released all 8 of the tabs....yet the **** thing won't come open...it's hung up on the end with the larger connector.
Regards
Gemstone
Regards
Gemstone
#10
While it may well be the DS switch console, it is also possible that it is also broken wires in the rubber boot going betweent he door jambs and the door. It is a VERY common and unfortunate problem. The harness from each door disconnects from the door jamb side and then you can roll the boot back to check for either actual breaks, or somtimes only a "hard", non flexible sections of the different wires that indicates a break in the wire but that does NOT necessarily show through the insulation. What happens is that the wire eventaully breaks from repeated metal fatigue in the same place from opening and closing the door. Like I said, this may NOT be your problem, but it IS a common occurence and is also ez to check for.
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Anywhere the RV is
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
seafish....that is exactly what I found...three wires broken...thanks. But we did manage to get the power module apart to clean the contacts by prying off the caps to the up/down rocker switches. Wish I'd have checked the wires closer before I placed the order for the new control module...
A side note, after destroying the switch in the rear door trying to get the door panel off....I discovered there is no need to take the door panel off to get to the switch. On my '05, the door switch fits into a round bezel trim piece, that if rotated to the left from say 12 o'clock to 10 o'clock, and pulled forward, it will come right out of the door panel.
Regards
Gemstone
A side note, after destroying the switch in the rear door trying to get the door panel off....I discovered there is no need to take the door panel off to get to the switch. On my '05, the door switch fits into a round bezel trim piece, that if rotated to the left from say 12 o'clock to 10 o'clock, and pulled forward, it will come right out of the door panel.
Regards
Gemstone
#12
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: B.C. Canada
Posts: 616
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You have to pry off the black caps of the actual switches before the box will separate in two pieces. Think of them as a triangle inside a triangle. They are hard to get off, just pry straight up. Under is the clear plastic toggle switch. The contacts on mine where black with carbon. Clean them up and use a little dielectric grease.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rednecktastic
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
10
11-15-2010 09:29 PM
markster
2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain
6
10-07-2006 02:20 PM