The Infamous HVAC Door Issue Strikes
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
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I fixed my heater doors and here is my experience. My 2003 Laramie blew air out the dash registers only. I confirmed that the mode door was bad and then tested the defroster door. After removing the mode door motor I manually cycled the mode door. It moved freely, but the white axle continued to turn when applying additional turning force after the door stopped. Looking through the passenger side floor register I could see the heat/defrost door. Because the defrost motor cannot be removed with the dash installed I used a long Phillips screwdriver to push against the door. The door easily moved with the screwdriver. Additionally, the door would not move when I switched the heater control from heat to defrost. I believe the mode door shifts from dash to heat/defrost and the defrost door shifts from heat to defrost. The mode door is located behind the heater controls and the defrost door is behind the auxiliary 12 volt plug.
I followed the factory manual to remove the dashboard. I moved the driver seat back to allow the steering wheel to rest on the floor. I set the dashboard on the seats. I used a thick towel to protect the seat from a possible damage.
With the dash removed the mode door is easily replaced by removing two panels on the heater box. If the mode door is the only problem the repair is quick.
The defroster door is inside the heater box. After removing the bolt and nuts attaching the heater box inside, I loosened the two bolts attaching the A/C accumulator tank under the hood. These bolts are horizontal; attach the accumulator to a bracket, and the heads face the engine. Loosening these bolts allows some extra movement of the A/C lines. I carefully pulled the heater box back until it cleared the firewall mounting studs. I reinstalled the left side mounting nut on the stud behind the heater box. I reversed the nut so the large caged washer held the heater box away from the firewall. This allowed me to use a carburetor adjusting to remove the three screws on the left side of the heater box. These three screws hold the heater box halves together and are closest the firewall. I continued to remove the screws around the front side (interior side) of the heater box. With these screws removed I gently pulled the left side of the heater box apart enough to move the defrost door into the compartment on the left side of the heater box. Then I could remove the door from the left side of the box. The new door went in the same way the old one came out.
The new doors come with new black pivot axles. Because of the force required to install the axles be sure to reassemble the heater box first. Although I did not inspect the cores and clean the heater box I was able to make this repair without draining the cooling and A/C systems or struggling with the lines. The old doors appeared to have white grease on the pivot points. I sprayed white grease on the new ones. Although my recirc door appeared fine I replaced the white axle with a new black one included with the replacement doors. I used factory parts because the dealer said they are improved and the originals lasted about 180,000 miles.
The carburetor adjusting tool is Snap-On part number TM 65. Search their web site to see the tool. I believe other companies offer a similar tool. It has a flexible ¼ drive end. I used a ¼ inch socket and a Phillips bit to remove the screws on the firewall side of the heater box. Be careful not to drop them because they could fall under the carpet.
The bad news:
I could not easily remove the dash top panel. Prying up the dash side broke two of the plastic tabs. It would not pull out from the windshield side no matter what I tried. I broke three plastic tabs on that side of the panel.
I worked on the truck outside and I had to order one of the heater doors. When I closed the truck doors the dashboard put a small cut in the driver’s door panel. Be sure to pad the dash sides.
Finally, I replaced the thermostat. This truck never had hot heat since new. I believed it was the nature of diesel engines because the engine ran about 200 degrees in the summer. This past summer the engine ran below 200. Now the truck has excellent heat, I need to reduce the temp and lower the blower speed after a while.
I hope my experience helps as much as this site has helped me over the years.
Thanks.
I followed the factory manual to remove the dashboard. I moved the driver seat back to allow the steering wheel to rest on the floor. I set the dashboard on the seats. I used a thick towel to protect the seat from a possible damage.
With the dash removed the mode door is easily replaced by removing two panels on the heater box. If the mode door is the only problem the repair is quick.
The defroster door is inside the heater box. After removing the bolt and nuts attaching the heater box inside, I loosened the two bolts attaching the A/C accumulator tank under the hood. These bolts are horizontal; attach the accumulator to a bracket, and the heads face the engine. Loosening these bolts allows some extra movement of the A/C lines. I carefully pulled the heater box back until it cleared the firewall mounting studs. I reinstalled the left side mounting nut on the stud behind the heater box. I reversed the nut so the large caged washer held the heater box away from the firewall. This allowed me to use a carburetor adjusting to remove the three screws on the left side of the heater box. These three screws hold the heater box halves together and are closest the firewall. I continued to remove the screws around the front side (interior side) of the heater box. With these screws removed I gently pulled the left side of the heater box apart enough to move the defrost door into the compartment on the left side of the heater box. Then I could remove the door from the left side of the box. The new door went in the same way the old one came out.
The new doors come with new black pivot axles. Because of the force required to install the axles be sure to reassemble the heater box first. Although I did not inspect the cores and clean the heater box I was able to make this repair without draining the cooling and A/C systems or struggling with the lines. The old doors appeared to have white grease on the pivot points. I sprayed white grease on the new ones. Although my recirc door appeared fine I replaced the white axle with a new black one included with the replacement doors. I used factory parts because the dealer said they are improved and the originals lasted about 180,000 miles.
The carburetor adjusting tool is Snap-On part number TM 65. Search their web site to see the tool. I believe other companies offer a similar tool. It has a flexible ¼ drive end. I used a ¼ inch socket and a Phillips bit to remove the screws on the firewall side of the heater box. Be careful not to drop them because they could fall under the carpet.
The bad news:
I could not easily remove the dash top panel. Prying up the dash side broke two of the plastic tabs. It would not pull out from the windshield side no matter what I tried. I broke three plastic tabs on that side of the panel.
I worked on the truck outside and I had to order one of the heater doors. When I closed the truck doors the dashboard put a small cut in the driver’s door panel. Be sure to pad the dash sides.
Finally, I replaced the thermostat. This truck never had hot heat since new. I believed it was the nature of diesel engines because the engine ran about 200 degrees in the summer. This past summer the engine ran below 200. Now the truck has excellent heat, I need to reduce the temp and lower the blower speed after a while.
I hope my experience helps as much as this site has helped me over the years.
Thanks.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I replaced the mode door and the defrost door. My temp control and recirc doors appeared to be OK. My truck has dual temp controls. I am not sure if the housing could be completely disassembled in the truck. I believe the housing needs to be completely disassembled in order to replace the temp control doors. Removing the housing may be the best approach to make that repair.
The pictures on page 7 of this post show the mode door. This door failure causes the air to blow only from the dash registers. This door can be replaced on the truck easily after the dash is removed.
The defrost door is the one that requires the housing to be disassembled. This door failure causes the air to discharge only from either defrost or floor registers depending on where the door broke.
The pictures on page 7 of this post show the mode door. This door failure causes the air to blow only from the dash registers. This door can be replaced on the truck easily after the dash is removed.
The defrost door is the one that requires the housing to be disassembled. This door failure causes the air to discharge only from either defrost or floor registers depending on where the door broke.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, Calif.
06 Recirc
Now the rest....
18th STEP: On the passenger side kick panel you will see the third bolt for the dash as well as the antenna connection and two connectors. One is white and one is grey. Disconnect all of these. the antenna will require peeling off the thin foam to do this. Remove the last bolt completely.(3/8 ratchet 13mm deep socket 4" extension) Dash should move now, loose.
19th STEP: Now simply lift up slightly and slide dash back. It should rest and not fall. Now you can see the housing. Undo the two screws and lift up on the back of the housing to free the snaps at the firewall. Twist it to free it and undo the connector on the actuator. Needed a small screwdriver to pry it up. Hard to see.
20th STEP: Remove housing and reinstall new housing plus new funnel included in box. hold harness out of the way. The new housing will need to snap into place. I lined mine up and gave it a little bump on top. You will know it is right when it won't tip back to you. reinstall two screws and PLUG IN THE HARNESS!!!
21st STEP: slide dash assembly back to pillar and start re-attaching hardware.
It took me right at fifty minutes including the picture taking and console sidetrack to get it out and be ready to put back together. Another hour to go back together being careful......Hope this helps some!
18th STEP: On the passenger side kick panel you will see the third bolt for the dash as well as the antenna connection and two connectors. One is white and one is grey. Disconnect all of these. the antenna will require peeling off the thin foam to do this. Remove the last bolt completely.(3/8 ratchet 13mm deep socket 4" extension) Dash should move now, loose.
19th STEP: Now simply lift up slightly and slide dash back. It should rest and not fall. Now you can see the housing. Undo the two screws and lift up on the back of the housing to free the snaps at the firewall. Twist it to free it and undo the connector on the actuator. Needed a small screwdriver to pry it up. Hard to see.
20th STEP: Remove housing and reinstall new housing plus new funnel included in box. hold harness out of the way. The new housing will need to snap into place. I lined mine up and gave it a little bump on top. You will know it is right when it won't tip back to you. reinstall two screws and PLUG IN THE HARNESS!!!
21st STEP: slide dash assembly back to pillar and start re-attaching hardware.
It took me right at fifty minutes including the picture taking and console sidetrack to get it out and be ready to put back together. Another hour to go back together being careful......Hope this helps some!
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Asheville,NC
I just got done replacing the Recirc door assembley on my 04. I went by Ratlratl's tutorial, and it was easy. Mine wasn't broken, but it was very brittle. All my other doors appear to be working, as air blows where it's supposed to when you move the switch. It doesn't blow as cold as I think it should, so I'm gonna get the refrigerant checked. Mine freezes up after a while, and after you let it thaw out, it goes to working properly again. Truck has 53K miles on it, and sits inside when not being driven.
DTR's Volcano Monitor, Toilet Smuggler, Taser tester, Meteorite enumerator, Quill counter, Match hoarder, Panic Dance Choreographer, Bet losing shrew murderer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 965
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From: Kenai Alaska
Mine just started doing the freeze up no air flow thing this year. Gotta wonder what is different for it to start after 10 years.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Decatur, IL
dicklohill
are these conditions of operation the same symptoms that would show up if the AC system was a little low on Refrigerant , causing freeze up and less effective cooling. my doors seem to be ok and is there a more seriously expensive resolution that involves the computer near the underhood fuse box ??? I have a friend that paid about $1500 to a dealer to replace computer component to resolve his AC problem with the same problems
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,578
Likes: 8
From: Charleston SC
turn the fan on various speeds,
and report back.
sounds like fan bearings are bad, and it ain't spinning fast enuff to move air
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba (Southern)
Infamous HVAC Door Issue / Mode Door / Dash Skin Problem
My 2003 Quad Cab / 5.9 Diesel now needs the mode door replaced. This Winter has been one where either 100% heat was at windshield or at feet. No mid-point adjustment could be found. To get heat to feet I pushed the floor door open from the drivers side outlet down at the floor with a long plastic rod. Of course doing this meant no heat on the windshield which meant refraining from drinking hot coffee lest the windshield ice up
My problem: My dash had a skin applied several years ago to cover up all the cracking. The screws at the windshield that normally are exposed (these are the ones that hold the dash cover to the front support near the windshield) are covered by the dash skin that was glued in place.
Any suggestions for getting to these screws without destroying the dash replacement skin? Or do I buy a new skin first and then work on getting the old skin off the dash assembly. I would have thought the skin manufacturer would have made provision for the forward mounting screws that go through the factory dash cover. Any helpful suggestions are much appreciated as I do not wish to go through another Manitoba Winter with very cold feet or avery hot face.
Thanks
RJ
My problem: My dash had a skin applied several years ago to cover up all the cracking. The screws at the windshield that normally are exposed (these are the ones that hold the dash cover to the front support near the windshield) are covered by the dash skin that was glued in place.
Any suggestions for getting to these screws without destroying the dash replacement skin? Or do I buy a new skin first and then work on getting the old skin off the dash assembly. I would have thought the skin manufacturer would have made provision for the forward mounting screws that go through the factory dash cover. Any helpful suggestions are much appreciated as I do not wish to go through another Manitoba Winter with very cold feet or avery hot face.
Thanks
RJ
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 174
Likes: 2
From: Votaw, Texas
Some manufacturers leave the option to cut the slots up to the buyer. One idea may be to find an identical truck and measure over from the A pillars to the screws then do the same on yours and nibble/drill out the dash at that point to expose the screws. There should be only two if it is similar to the Stage II's. Removing the dash you have might get messy if it is glued to the factory dash.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 50
Likes: 1
From: Central Ontario
Thanks for your response. I toughed it out since I last posted. And finally updated my log in etc. Still lots of snow here and I hope to check this out on a warmer day. And I've got lot of stuff to do to this truck to catch up and bring it back to spec.