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The Infamous HVAC Door Issue Strikes

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Old 09-22-2007, 01:51 AM   #1
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The Infamous HVAC Door Issue Strikes

Well, I was hoping that it would not happen to my truck but at 10,400 miles, it struck, the infamous HVAC door issue. I was ALWAYS careful to keep the fan ON LOW when switching from recirculation and then back to outside air. But it still happened to me.

I went to turn the A/C on and even while the fan was on FULL SPEED, very little air is coming out the vents. It doesn't matter if you switch from recirculation to outside air, the air coming out of the vents is weak, even at FULL FAN SPEED.

I REALLY do NOT want to take it to the dealer. Even though it is under warranty, I have read that they can end-up hacking it and you will then have squeaks and rattles from your dash.

QUESTIONS:
1 - Is it the BLEND DOOR or the RECIRC DOOR that broke?
2 - Can I just rip out the door myself and be done with it? What are the negatives of doing this?
3 - I've read where guys just removed the door by reaching in from the glovebox. Does anyone have links/pics of this?
4 - Did D/C finally come out with a BETTER design?

If the dealer is the last resort, can anyone recommend a QUALITY dealer in Colorado that they have taken it to and they fixed this issue CORRECTLY without causing more problems (squeaks, rattles, dash scratches?)
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Old 09-22-2007, 02:16 AM   #2
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I had it happen to my 04 in the early spring. It's the recirc door, it pivots above the fan and when it breaks it falls down and covers the fan. I did the repair myself and ended up with a buzzing at idle speed in gear only. The noise goes away if I just push on the HVAC box in the right place. As a temporary measure you can actually access the broken door and uncover the fan if you remove the glove box and lower portion of the dash.

The down side of removing the door completly is that fresh air will be able to flow into the cab at all times uncontrolled and unconditioned. If you remove the door and then block the cab air intake you will at least be able to control the air temp.
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Old 09-22-2007, 02:20 AM   #3
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The down side of removing the door completly is that fresh air will be able to flow into the cab at all times uncontrolled and unconditioned. If you remove the door and then block the cab air intake you will at least be able to control the air temp.
If I pull the door off and then block it with duck tape, will that mean that I will ALWAYS have recirculated air in the truck and NEVER be able have outside air enter in?
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Old 09-22-2007, 08:12 AM   #4
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That is correct.

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Old 09-22-2007, 11:53 AM   #5
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My guys can get those done in about an hour and a 1/2. On an auto truck it is easiest. Normally there is not a floor console in the way. The entire steering column, wheel and all, lowers away with removal of two nuts. The A-pillars are taken off(two bolts each). The dash pulls away far enough with 4 side bolts and four bolts along the windshield. The a/c does not need to be messed with in anyway. Get the updated housing #68004226AB from a dealer (about $15)(should have in stock if a DODGE dealer). Two screws and one electrical connector and it's out. There is no reason to take off any smaller panels except the one under the steering wheel(two screws) so this will keep it from rattling or squeaking. Even the glovebox stays in place. The heaterbox is not even loosened or messed with. Wish I was closer to you, I'd give you a hand. If you do go with a dealer talk to the techs. They are human and some don't mind it you approach them. On the other hand, there are those that do mind and their attitudes would make me go somewhere else. Even at my own dealer I know who to ask and who I wouldn't even let change my oil! Funny story with that BTW. Another time though. BOL.

Chris
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Old 09-22-2007, 03:13 PM   #6
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My guys can get those done in about an hour and a 1/2....Get the updated housing #68004226AB from a dealer (about $15)(should have in stock if a DODGE dealer).. Wish I was closer to you, I'd give you a hand...
Chris
Thanks for the info! Too bad you don't live closer, it would make this a lot easier. Are you a mechanic?

Is the updated housing BULLET-PROOF, in other words, it will NOT break again?

If I go the route of just removing the broken door and sealing it with tape for now, any other negs except for always getting recirculated air??

Do you plan on coming to Colorado anytime soon???
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Old 09-22-2007, 03:17 PM   #7
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id just take it to the dealer. so what they cut my dash...they are putting in a new one....oh well

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Old 09-22-2007, 05:16 PM   #8
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ratlratl,

That is some good info.

Does that P/N also apply to the dual zone A/C?

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Old 09-22-2007, 07:44 PM   #9
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Thumbs up Door answers.....

pet05- It has a redesign that adds range stops to prevent the actuators from over turning the door. I used to tech in a flooded market full of others who scared me that they worked on cars. Too many parts swappers, not enough know that diagnostics is the key and the hard part. I hardly use recirc because here it is so humid that mold grows very quickly. Smells like sweaty feet all the time. As soon as I win the Powerball!

Brett- It would suprise you how many techs just keep taking out screws until they get to the point of wait I shouldn't have done that. When I did tech I got a bonus paid if my FixedFirstVisit was good. Motivated by money is always on my resume'. So always better to do it right. Let alone upset the guy who pays my salary(the customer). Hope the 5" exhaust works out.

MikeyB- yes it works on both. It comes as a housing plus the door($20) plus a new actuator ($48) all for $15. No that's not an admission is it? Been lucky with mine so far. Only had to reset the actuator by pulling the IOD fuse for about 5 mins.
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Old 09-22-2007, 08:15 PM   #10
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Hey ratlratl, any chance on a write up with pics on this procedure?? I don't like going into a project "blind" if ya know what I mean. For now, I just dropped the motor and removed broken door and put motor back in. I'd really like to fix it right, just a little apprehensive.
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Old 09-22-2007, 08:36 PM   #11
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Thumbs up Sure thing

I can take pictures of mine to give you an idea if it will help. I suppose I can use the practice for mine eventually. Do it the morning for you.
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Old 09-22-2007, 08:45 PM   #12
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That would be AWESOME!!!!
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Old 09-22-2007, 09:06 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ratlratl View Post
pet05- It has a redesign that adds range stops to prevent the actuators from over turning the door. (snip)

MikeyB- yes it works on both. It comes as a housing plus the door($20) plus a new actuator ($48) all for $15. No that's not an admission is it? Been lucky with mine so far. Only had to reset the actuator by pulling the IOD fuse for about 5 mins.
Works on an '03?
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Old 09-24-2007, 10:53 PM   #14
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Thumbs up Woo Hoo!!!

Hey guys! just got done a little while ago with the housing. I took alot of pictures. It is very simple so don't fear. I needed two screwdrivers, two ratchets, three extensions and three sockets. It took me about 50 minutes to take apart including taking the pictures. Then about an hour to put it back together. I'm a little oc so it all had to feel tight and right. Will post pictures sometime tomorrow with write up.

Chris

P.S. I did do it myself. Two people would've been more fun and quicker but not necessary.
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Old 09-24-2007, 11:58 PM   #15
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Mine stopped working about 2 months ago and dont want to hassle with the dealer so I can not wait for the write up.
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