The Infamous HVAC Door Issue Strikes
actuator(if needed): 4885206AB
I recommend putting a new actuator on just to be on the safe side, but you don't have to.
I replaced my mode door last weekend. not as bad as I thought it was going to be. Just follow ratlratls write up for the recirc door but pull the dash all the way onto the seat. Buy mode door kit and replace trying not to break the tabs that are on the back. if you have any other questions let me know. oh, in order to pull the dash all the way back you have to separate the main wiring harness by loosening the 10mm bolt in the middle of the plastic block.
I havent messed with my settings in a little whole in fact I had my work gloves covering the defrost vents in hopes to get more heat to my feet!!
But from what I remember I can put it on VENT and its fine put it on DEFROST and its fine however put it on FEET and I only get a little air down there and also my recirculate door seems to be fine as well however if im going to pull it apart to get my other door fixed might as well do it for the less than $20 bucks for that door.I just REALLY dont want to have to drain the coolant and ESPECIALLY the A/C so if it is the mode door and it does NOT have to be drained for that door I would give it a try....
So now the door that you're talking about and replaced is the MODE door? So would THAT be the door I would need since I cant control whether its on defrost or on feet?
I havent messed with my settings in a little whole in fact I had my work gloves covering the defrost vents in hopes to get more heat to my feet!!
But from what I remember I can put it on VENT and its fine put it on DEFROST and its fine however put it on FEET and I only get a little air down there and also my recirculate door seems to be fine as well however if im going to pull it apart to get my other door fixed might as well do it for the less than $20 bucks for that door.
I just REALLY dont want to have to drain the coolant and ESPECIALLY the A/C so if it is the mode door and it does NOT have to be drained for that door I would give it a try....
I havent messed with my settings in a little whole in fact I had my work gloves covering the defrost vents in hopes to get more heat to my feet!!
But from what I remember I can put it on VENT and its fine put it on DEFROST and its fine however put it on FEET and I only get a little air down there and also my recirculate door seems to be fine as well however if im going to pull it apart to get my other door fixed might as well do it for the less than $20 bucks for that door.I just REALLY dont want to have to drain the coolant and ESPECIALLY the A/C so if it is the mode door and it does NOT have to be drained for that door I would give it a try....
Round Two for me as well
I'm not sure which door broke, and I haven't had a chance to play around with it or look for the usual indicators, but the dealership found a broken "tab" on the floor while performing another service, and the system did seem to be messed up.
I read in other threads about and aftermarket fix: heatertreater and I'm considering replacing the factory parts with their upgraded metal parts.
As common as these door failures seem to be, it seems the upgrade to metal parts might be a better long term solution.
Anyone used these parts or a similar aftermarket upgrade?
Any reason not do go with the metal parts?
Thanks,
EDR
I read in other threads about and aftermarket fix: heatertreater and I'm considering replacing the factory parts with their upgraded metal parts.
As common as these door failures seem to be, it seems the upgrade to metal parts might be a better long term solution.
Anyone used these parts or a similar aftermarket upgrade?
Any reason not do go with the metal parts?
Thanks,
EDR
The problem I am having on my '04 is cold a/c on driver's side of truck, and warm air coming out of passenger side vents. Problem is intermittent, but seems to do it a lot when it is hot outside. I do not have a dual zone a/c control panel. Is this still a common problem with the heater case?
Dave,
In your case it sounds like it's just low on freon.
Also you might want to think about installing a coolant shut off valve for the heater. This will help make the HVAC system more efficient in the summer time.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=209533
MikeyB
In your case it sounds like it's just low on freon.
Also you might want to think about installing a coolant shut off valve for the heater. This will help make the HVAC system more efficient in the summer time.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=209533
MikeyB
I hate to sound like a tool bc i know this subject has been talked to death with our trucks but im looking to buy the parts for my a/c and i want to make sure im getting the right stuff. My problem is that my a/c blows warmer air on the passenger side and when i put in on recirculation it puts out less air then the other mode. What doors do i need. Mode door?
Well, I was hoping that it would not happen to my truck but at 10,400 miles, it struck, the infamous HVAC door issue. I was ALWAYS careful to keep the fan ON LOW when switching from recirculation and then back to outside air. But it still happened to me.
I went to turn the A/C on and even while the fan was on FULL SPEED, very little air is coming out the vents. It doesn't matter if you switch from recirculation to outside air, the air coming out of the vents is weak, even at FULL FAN SPEED.
I REALLY do NOT want to take it to the dealer. Even though it is under warranty, I have read that they can end-up hacking it and you will then have squeaks and rattles from your dash.
QUESTIONS:
1 - Is it the BLEND DOOR or the RECIRC DOOR that broke?
2 - Can I just rip out the door myself and be done with it? What are the negatives of doing this?
3 - I've read where guys just removed the door by reaching in from the glovebox. Does anyone have links/pics of this?
4 - Did D/C finally come out with a BETTER design?
If the dealer is the last resort, can anyone recommend a QUALITY dealer in Colorado that they have taken it to and they fixed this issue CORRECTLY without causing more problems (squeaks, rattles, dash scratches?)
I went to turn the A/C on and even while the fan was on FULL SPEED, very little air is coming out the vents. It doesn't matter if you switch from recirculation to outside air, the air coming out of the vents is weak, even at FULL FAN SPEED.
I REALLY do NOT want to take it to the dealer. Even though it is under warranty, I have read that they can end-up hacking it and you will then have squeaks and rattles from your dash.
QUESTIONS:
1 - Is it the BLEND DOOR or the RECIRC DOOR that broke?
2 - Can I just rip out the door myself and be done with it? What are the negatives of doing this?
3 - I've read where guys just removed the door by reaching in from the glovebox. Does anyone have links/pics of this?
4 - Did D/C finally come out with a BETTER design?
If the dealer is the last resort, can anyone recommend a QUALITY dealer in Colorado that they have taken it to and they fixed this issue CORRECTLY without causing more problems (squeaks, rattles, dash scratches?)
"The heating-A/C system pulls outside (ambient) air through the fresh air intake (4) located at the cowl panel at the base of the windshield and into the air inlet housing above the heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) housing and passes through the A/C evaporator (7). Air flow is then directed either through or around the heater core (2). This is done by adjusting the position of the blend-air door(s) (3) with the temperature control(s) located on the A/C-heater control in the instrument panel. Air flow is then directed out the floor outlet (8), instrument panel outlet (10) or the defroster outlet (1) in various combinations by adjusting the position of the mode-air doors (9 and 11) using the mode control located on the A/C-heater control. The temperature and mode control uses electrical actuators to operate the air doors.
The velocity of the air flow out of the outlets can be adjusted with the blower speed control located on the A/C-heater control.
The fresh air intake can be shut off by pressing the Recirculation button on the A/C-heater control. This will operate the electrically actuated recirculation-air door (5), which closes off the fresh air intake. With the fresh air intake closed, the conditioned air within the vehicle is pulled back into the HVAC housing through the recirculation air intake (6) located within the passenger compartment.
On models equipped with A/C, the A/C compressor can be engaged by pressing the A/C (snowflake) button on the A/C-heater control. It will automatically engage when the mode control is set in any Mix to Defrost position. This will remove heat and humidity from the air before it is directed through or around the heater core. The mode control on the A/C-heater control is used to direct the conditioned air to the selected system outlets.
The defroster outlet receives airflow from the HVAC housing through the molded plastic defroster duct, which connects to the HVAC housing defroster outlet. The airflow from the defroster outlets is directed by fixed vanes in the defroster outlet grilles and cannot be adjusted. The defroster outlet grilles are integral to the instrument panel top cover.
The side window demister outlets receive airflow from the HVAC housing through the molded plastic defroster duct and two molded plastic demister ducts. The airflow from the side window demister outlets is directed by fixed vanes in the demister outlet grilles and cannot be adjusted. The side window demister outlet grilles are integral to the instrument panel. The demisters direct air from the HVAC housing through the outlets located on the top corners of the instrument panel. The demisters operate when the mode control **** is positioned in the floor-defrost and defrost-only settings. Some air may be noticeable from the demister outlets when the mode control is in the bi-level to floor positions.
The panel outlets receive airflow from the HVAC housing through a molded plastic main panel duct, center panel duct and two end panel ducts. The two end panel ducts direct airflow to the left and right instrument panel outlets, while the center panel duct directs airflow to the two center panel outlets. Each of these outlets can be individually adjusted to direct the flow of air.
The floor outlets receive airflow from the HVAC housing through the floor distribution duct. The front floor outlets are integral to the molded plastic floor distribution duct, which is secured to the bottom of the housing. The floor outlets cannot be adjusted. "





!! thanks